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And so it begins....323BG hatch ----> V6 powa with a few extra surprises

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    Originally posted by Dan [Sac] View Post
    Oh damn, I don't even remember being on the computer....thankfully I woke up around 3am and drank a quart of water, I felt great today.
    haha its never fun come Saturday Morning when your like (I was supposed to do this this and this on the car and attempting to drag your hungover ass out to the shop... Haha ill never forget my 2 hour nap/passout underneath the mx-3 I think my dad got a pic too gotta find it)

    With the workmanship Ive seen through your project I have always assumed you were atleast 40 years plus haha maybe not...

    Mx-3 Kl Turbo (Under the Knife Once Again)
    94 Rx7 All Stock Montego Blue Touring Model
    93 Lx
    sigpic

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      Next week, after polishing, the tired suspension will get a little tweak. All rubber will be replaced with polyurethane bushings. Along with the k-sports & manual steering, it should give me an excellent feel for the road. This is part of the reason why I opted for the taller 50-series tires (along with gearing reasons) - the tires will really be most of the suspension.

      These were from a short bulk buy on mx3.com ran by member 'wytbishop' there.







      '90 Mazda 323 - V6 KLDE, supercharged, right-hand drive, build log
      '93 Ford Probe GT - a few mods...
      10.24 @ 139.5 mph [16 psi] - Timeslip
      490whp, 447 wtq @ 20psi - Dyno sheet

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        ^ I was installing mine today, the only thing that I didn't like was that we have to use some of the old washers. It's not like evapo-rust doesn't exist though!

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          Originally posted by mx-3_4evr View Post
          ^ I was installing mine today, the only thing that I didn't like was that we have to use some of the old washers. It's not like evapo-rust doesn't exist though!
          i cant believe how good that stuff actually works

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            Rust sucks, fortunately this car is pretty clean. I really hate removing bushings, the torch method is not my favorite though it is effective. I wonder if the ends warp at all under the heat and become out-of-round, so to speak (like the round ends of the trailing arms).
            '90 Mazda 323 - V6 KLDE, supercharged, right-hand drive, build log
            '93 Ford Probe GT - a few mods...
            10.24 @ 139.5 mph [16 psi] - Timeslip
            490whp, 447 wtq @ 20psi - Dyno sheet

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              I used no heat when I removed the old bushings, I just used a BFH and couple of sockets. It's a work out I got to say

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                Hey Dan,

                I'm not sure if you're aware, or if you need the assistance, but I did post instructions on the installation of the bushings on MX-3.com (I am Wytbishop there). I've been waiting for you to install them as I am very curious what your opinion of the product will be.

                I have been running on a set of 80A bushings for about 6 months now with no binding and not a squeak. I find them a bit harsh and when spring comes I'm going to be switching to 70A in front to see if that softens the ride a bit.

                I did the instructions in 2 parts. Here are the links if you need them.



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                  Sorry to thread jack, but I had problems last night with installing the bushings. When I torqued down the bolts, the bushings squished out a lot. I felt like If I kept going I would tear the lip around them so I stopped. Is that how it's supposed to be? Also do I have to use the stock washers? Can't I just buy some from the hardware store?

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                    Send me a PM or hit me up on MX-3.

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                      Hey Dan do yourself a big favour and buy a little press. I resisted buying one for years. I finally bought myself a 12 ton press from Princess Auto for $150.00 (think Canadian Harbour Freight). I was unsure how useful the little guy would be, but the bushin' pushin' on my MX-3 suspenders was a breeze, so were the MX-3 wheel bearing installations. The unit I got is real compact too, one of the reasons I resisted for so long was my available garage real estate is at a premium. It was worth it for this project alone, now I wish I would have bought it about 20 years ago

                      Last edited by IMACHU2; 02-18-2010, 01:18 AM. Reason: made for a stoopid with the link-age
                      Dominic Toretto rocks a MaZda and his cell phone number starts in "(323)"

                      My Work Log:http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46003

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                        a bench vise is just as easy, and costs 1/10th the price. lol.

                        use two sockets, one larger then the bushing, and one thats smaller then the bushing. put one on each side of whatever your popping the bushing out of. and close the vise. it will push out the bushing without any work, or fire hazards. lol

                        when you reinstall new bushings, i will put a dab of soap on them to help them seat without tearing. always helps quite a bit.
                        ~PaTricK~


                        -Current car's-
                        ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
                        What are you driving?

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                          I destroyed my last vise when I tried removing the OEM LCA front bushing on FrankenProbe. Had to use a press. I'll probably get one eventually. The Horror Freight ones though use such soft crappy chinese steel it's almost a joke.
                          '90 Mazda 323 - V6 KLDE, supercharged, right-hand drive, build log
                          '93 Ford Probe GT - a few mods...
                          10.24 @ 139.5 mph [16 psi] - Timeslip
                          490whp, 447 wtq @ 20psi - Dyno sheet

                          Comment


                            You do have to be very careful not to stretch the lateral links when you push the bushings out. You need to select the socket you use very carefully and support the lateral link properly to make sure you don't stretch and twist them up. If you use too large a socket it will make the hole bigger on the way through and the new bushings will not be tight enough.

                            That's why I advocate the burning method. Burning is very easy although it can be a little messy. You don't have to get the arm super hot to break down the bond between the rubber and the sleeve so there's no chance of damaging the components. The pisser is that you have to get that sleeve out with a hacksaw and a bit of hammer and chisel action. But there's little chance you'll damage the arm.

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                              Woot, tomorrow I should finish polishing the paint. I'll try to get some sunshine pics in if I get done before sundown.

                              Tomorrow I"ll also paint the door frames black and she'll be coming home on thursday for reassembly.

                              The garage now has the space, and I'm excited once more.
                              '90 Mazda 323 - V6 KLDE, supercharged, right-hand drive, build log
                              '93 Ford Probe GT - a few mods...
                              10.24 @ 139.5 mph [16 psi] - Timeslip
                              490whp, 447 wtq @ 20psi - Dyno sheet

                              Comment


                                Oh hey Dan, thanks for the recommendation on Mr. Mazda in SJ.
                                1997 Protegé ES: The Power of BP

                                Broke Status FTW!

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