building up your bp to a bpt with all stock parts

[racerboygtx]

Ive Been reading alot lately on on all the BP SOHC, BP DOHC, BPT DOHC.

Lets start with a straight Bp Block.
You will Need the Forged Crankshaft out the BP DOHC, or BPT DOHC. 90-94
You will need the Forged Rods out of the BP DOHC, or BPT DOHC. 90-94
You will the Pistons "8.2:1 Compression Ratio" Out of a BP SOHC. 94-97
These Pistons have a story behind them its, pretty amazing.

Piston history.
Further, the pistons top ring groove area is reinforced with integrally cast nickel-based "metal foam". The nickel foam is produced by electroplating urethane foam, which is then melted away, leaving porous metal "foam". The foam ring is integrally cast in the piston by the squeeze-casting method. The metal reinforced, squeezed-cast piston with cooling channel was first adopted in Mazda's direct-injection diesel engine, whose pistons are subjected to extremely high thermal load during the combustion process. the metal reinforced piston is about 10 percent lighter as compared with an aluminium piston with Niresist top ring groove, and according to Mazda's testing has an extended piston life by threefold. The piston's skirt is also zinc-plated for improved wear resistance, and its inside is cooled by an oil jet.

Now heres the kicker part.
Obtain a RHF6CB Turbo And Turbo Manifold. 90-94
You will need the "Turbo Oil Return" oilpan BPT-DOHC. 90-94
Keep the Stock IntakeManifold, BP DOHC. 90-94
Keep the Stock BP DOHC Cylinder head, My casting # is BP05-8-2.

So far all i have read is that these parts were screwed around with in the us customs, and scattered thruogh out all the other motors, the motor after built and retuned is supposed to squeeze atleast 300BHP, using all stock Parts.

Im Researching the F-Type Tranny right now. will post swap list later.
oh ya you will need the F-Type 1.6litre tranny "B6 SOHC"
You will need the Flywheel F-Type 1.6litre "B6 SOHC"
You will need the F-Type Clutch and Clutch Disc 1.6litre "B6 SOHC"

[tatito187]

so are the single cam pistons really better than the dohc cuz i got a single cam block

[Lex]

You are quoting things about the rare GTR parts. There were only 2500 GTR cars made in the world with those pistons and the beefy rods and that large ball bearing turbo. Good luck finding those parts - you are better off buying aftermarket.

The BPT engine was more common, came with a smaller turbo and pretty much the same bottom end as the NA DOHC except for the cams, pistons, and sometimes the main bearing support plate (if the NA ones didn't have it).

The DOHC and BPT DOHC rods are not forged - neither are the GTR (BPD) ones but they are much stronger. The NA and BPT rods are good for 300hp on a daily driver as well. The DOHC and BPT pistons are pretty much the same except the NA ones have a higher compression ratio.

[Mazda_Powered]

Lex has it down to a T! If you're planning on boosting...get a BP make it reliable...so a light rebuild. Then boost it. Your stock 8.8:1 c/r ratio is perfect for boost.

It really doesn't take that much to turbocharge a BP. All it is is being patient and waiting for the right parts to come along! ECUs, manifolds, oil lines...ect.

JACK.

[racerboygtx]

well forged crankshaft and rods, are what ive researched, ive been through mazda asked the questions that i had to ask and got the answer that the bp dohc is got forged crankshaft and rods, and yes if ya reread the pistons are out of a sohc 94-97 1.8 kia sephia.
high compression ratios i try and avoid as much as possible, i dont want to have to deal detonation and all the excess bull ****.
thats why i posted all the parts required for a beefy stock type build up. and as i said before i researched and went through mazda, this the info i got so if yall have any more comments or questions plz let me know, im still checking out even more info
ive got all the parts lined up in my shop, just waiting for the money to get RHF6CB turbo/ and manifold, will need to have more info on what type injectors and cc output of them aswell, and what type fuelpump would do the job right with out ove doing fuel input or at the same time making sure im coming up short on fuel input.
this project is gonna be a long one, but i want it done right the first time. im gonna try and spend the minimum of at least 2500 usd, that includes if i have to stand alone fuel management.

as said before yalls comments and questions are welcome ill do my best to answer the with what knowledge i have, well i gotta go the motor is crying for to come and spend quality time with it

[racerboygtx]

well forged crankshaft and rods, are what ive researched, ive been through mazda asked the questions that i had to ask and got the answer that the bp dohc is got forged crankshaft and rods, and yes if ya reread the pistons are out of a sohc 94-97 1.8 kia sephia.
high compression ratios i try and avoid as much as possible, i dont want to have to deal detonation and all the excess bull ****.
thats why i posted all the parts required for a beefy stock type build up. and as i said before i researched and went through mazda, this the info i got so if yall have any more comments or questions plz let me know, im still checking out even more info
ive got all the parts lined up in my shop, just waiting for the money to get RHF6CB turbo/ and manifold, will need to have more info on what type injectors and cc output of them aswell, and what type fuelpump would do the job right with out over doing fuel input or at the same time making sure im not coming up short on fuel input.
this project is gonna be a long one, but i want it done right the first time. im gonna try and spend the minimum of at least 2500 usd, that includes if i have to stand alone fuel management.

as said before yalls comments and questions are welcome ill do my best to answer the with what knowledge i have, well i gotta go the motor is crying for to come and spend quality time with it.

[therieldeal]

the piston history thing that you mentioned is for the GTR pistons. definately not sohc pistons or kia pistons. yes, you can put B8 sohc pistons in a BP and get 8.2:1 compression, but that does not make them GTR pistons. they dont have the nickel foam ring or the cooling channels... they are just standard aluminum pistons.

some history on the GTR stuff:

http://mazda4club.forumsplace.com/message-20.html

-jon

[OUfb2005]

has anyone ever heard of this nylon dremal tip that you can use to take off all the carbon on your pistons?

it would be ALOT cheaper to use this method
i saw it used today to rebuild a motor but i didnt catch where they bought the nylon dremal tip

[Mazda_Powered]

If you want to have a nice BP, rebuild it with B6T rods if you're really worried, they're Mazda's 1.6 Turbo rods. They're beefier than BP rods. Then get some Wiseco pistons, under a 9:0 c/r...get all the machine work done professionally. Have your crank/rods rebalanced. Rebuild the head, dont do much port/polish on the exhaust ports unless you want a laggy turbo. You can get away with a port/polish on the intake ports. Also you can use your n/a intake manifold, port/polish that and 'cut' it. Then replace all your seals and gaskets.

After that, its just breaking the motor in properly so the rings seat and dont leak. I'd break it in either n/a on the stock harness. Or boosted on some type of management.

JACK.

[Shades]

has anyone ever heard of this nylon dremal tip that you can use to take off all the carbon on your pistons?

it would be ALOT cheaper to use this method
i saw it used today to rebuild a motor but i didnt catch where they bought the nylon dremal tip

Not sure about the Nylon Dremel but I'd just use a wire wheel and a drill... and just do the tops and not the sides... if you're gonna reuse pistons. If you do reuse pistons re-ring it... meaning put new rings on it.

Rebuild the head, dont do much port/polish on the exhaust ports unless you want a laggy turbo. You can get away with a port/polish on the intake ports.

Actually you want to polish the exhaust ports... you want that exhaust gas to get outta there as fast as possible and spin up your turbo... what you don't want to do is port it much... unless you want a lot more top end power. You also want to leave the intake ports a little rough for some turbulence so that the air and fuel can mix better.

Also the very important thing when porting is that you get of the short radius of the ports... there's usually a casting bump there that should be taken out.

That's just my 2 cents...

[FE3-323]

I've done short side radius work on both intake & exhaust ports, im awaiting some more finishing parts to put a nice touch into the ports & chamber.

as far as a cheap quick build. start with a NA DOHC engine, Cyrotreat the following:

main bearings
rod bearings
main caps
Rods

work the short side radius's in the head with sanding bits on a dremel
shave/deck the head-block as needed to raise the compression further
& add turbo of choice.

[racerboygtx]

well i see that a bunch of people are sarcastic, but i thought id share a way to build a reliable street/ daily driver car and have a load of fun with it so in my opinion, all yall can do it yalls way. ive got the motor built, im boosting 16 psi, plymouth laser rs turbocharger. i just wanted to share what research and hard work i went through. but hey its all cool, yall have fun with the thread and ill dro[ in here and there.

[BP18Protege]

pics where your mouth is.

The way i see it, your information is skewed & you really don't know what is true & what isn't. you can't believe everything you see or hear. I can't wait for you to post pictures of the engine blown up

[protégébob]

makes you wonder since he has a stock mazda picture for his avatar.

[dave0r]

Hey there guys

most of the info in correct. but!

but the conrods are not forged, even he GTR ones are not "techinically" forged, but they have a completely different finish to them and the casting process makes them much stronger ( i have them ya see )
Yes the BPT/BP conrods are not the strongest, but can be prep'd to take a bit more abuse, but spend $$ if ya wona make big boost!

Dont waste ya time with BPT/ B8 soch pistons
go aftermarket
believe it or not..the BPT/ BP have are very thin in the crown area, and hence will not take high boost or a bad tune, the GTR's are much better, but aftermarket are even better again!


why bother cryo treating the bearings...if you by new "race series" bearings your not going to have anyproblems...ive not had any bearing wear in my BP engines.

what you SHOULD cryo treat is the DAM gearbox internals!