Disclaimer:If this is in the wrong section because this is a BG swap, I apologise, since there was no dedicated BG wiring and electronics section, I just figured I'd put it here. Mods please move to proper section if necessary.
So, I was attempting the halo light install found here: http://www.wihandyman.com/wil/howto/projectors/
And as such, was testing it out after figuring out where I was going to route my wires, I did a test of it, and said, "These 'low beams' are way too bright, they have to be the high beams." My logic for this is that the low beams are usually on the outside edge of most cars I've seen, and with posts like this:
...I was skeptical of the instructions being right. Don't get me wrong, Gro is a genius, just this is one thing I think everyone overlooks. So, with the wiring harness that comes with the halos, you are told in the instructions to wire it this way:
And when you simply try to switch the wires at the top right of the diagram, you get your lows and highs coming on with the low beam switch, and just the highs with the high beam switch. Why? That funky little diode located between the two relays on the harness. As shown in the diagram, it acts ONLY letting power flow from the low beams on the mirage harness to the high beams on the mirage harness. Now the way mirages are wired in their stock harnesses (harnesees?) must be different because it causes the aforementioned problem: low beams = high beams or high and lows; no way to get just low beams.
Now I tried unplugging the diode to decouple the circuits, and it pretty much acted like the stock protege headlights regardless of which way they're wired. One switch is JUST low beams and the opposite is JUST high beams... I didn't like that, so I came up with the following:
So not only do you switch the wires from the instructable Gro Harlem provided, but you also either have to a)De-pin and repin in reverse the diode, or b) cut wires and mix the diode wires so that power flows the other way. Both are the same thing, one's just cleaner and requires less solder or crimp connectors... if you have the right tools...
The end result as it should be:
Low beams:
High Beams:
Photos taken at two different exposures because otherwise you couldn't make out both lights.
So, just a PSA for anyone attempting the swap, do it right, it's a simple fix. Don't piss off other drivers, and make sure you still get them aligned like I need to do!
As the Brits say, Cheers!
Now that that's out the way, I can work on my Worklog...
So, I was attempting the halo light install found here: http://www.wihandyman.com/wil/howto/projectors/
And as such, was testing it out after figuring out where I was going to route my wires, I did a test of it, and said, "These 'low beams' are way too bright, they have to be the high beams." My logic for this is that the low beams are usually on the outside edge of most cars I've seen, and with posts like this:
Originally posted by foreword
View Post
And when you simply try to switch the wires at the top right of the diagram, you get your lows and highs coming on with the low beam switch, and just the highs with the high beam switch. Why? That funky little diode located between the two relays on the harness. As shown in the diagram, it acts ONLY letting power flow from the low beams on the mirage harness to the high beams on the mirage harness. Now the way mirages are wired in their stock harnesses (harnesees?) must be different because it causes the aforementioned problem: low beams = high beams or high and lows; no way to get just low beams.
Now I tried unplugging the diode to decouple the circuits, and it pretty much acted like the stock protege headlights regardless of which way they're wired. One switch is JUST low beams and the opposite is JUST high beams... I didn't like that, so I came up with the following:
So not only do you switch the wires from the instructable Gro Harlem provided, but you also either have to a)De-pin and repin in reverse the diode, or b) cut wires and mix the diode wires so that power flows the other way. Both are the same thing, one's just cleaner and requires less solder or crimp connectors... if you have the right tools...
The end result as it should be:
Low beams:
High Beams:
Photos taken at two different exposures because otherwise you couldn't make out both lights.
So, just a PSA for anyone attempting the swap, do it right, it's a simple fix. Don't piss off other drivers, and make sure you still get them aligned like I need to do!
As the Brits say, Cheers!
Now that that's out the way, I can work on my Worklog...
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