WilyB's 93 GT rebuild

[FE3-323]

i would not suggest spending that cash. there are far more viable options.
the bump inside the GTX/R heads was introduced to improve spool time & combustion A major benifit when in vacum still.
due to the flow design & the tumble effect into the combustion chamber better fuel atomization & a more complete combustion were achieved.

the FE3 is always a very easy & effective option as well. you need not open the motor for the power levels you would see otherwise with a GTR.

in short to diss the GTR motor.
the rods are behind today's technology & reciprocating mass is not a good thing.
forged rods can now be had for under $300 which are lighter & far stronger.

the VJ23 turbo- non rebuildable CHRA cartridge.- also lagging behind the times with turbo technology.
evo turbo's are proven to provide better all around power/spool-characteristics/ response vs a VJ23.
I.E. there are better turbo options.

that leaves you with the intake manifold/valves.
i believe the 2nd generation BP (NA) intake manifold has a more equal tuned intake plenum then the 1st generation. & comes close to matching that of the GTR. combine that with VICS & you retain/improve low end while improving top end over a GTR manifold.

sodium filled valves-(awesome technology- great for shedding heat)
^ this was added to assess burned out stock exhaust valves which under extremes tend to let go in the BP.
SS valves are now available options as well as more expensive alternatives if you have the wallet.

so again. you decide

[Mazda_Powered]

yep lol me and Phil have been pm'ing one another, and my blurb about the GTR engine sounded extactly like that haha. I suggested if he were to buy the GTR engine, to sell the manifold/turbo/injectors and run his VF-12 on it...would cut down costs of the GTR purchase. That would be the only way I would get one personally lol.

I agree just to go forged, I suggested those ebay rods, mixed with some supertech pistons if he's trying to be cost effective, and refresh the rest of the bottom end...cylinder head was a completely different topic lol, but you get the idea.

[Wilyb]

Well, I already have the 2nd gen intake...I have the BP 26 cams, cam gears...3 DOHC heads, 2 blocks...

So in short then, I am better off to rebuild the head and keep the VICS, as the difference between GTR intake and head versus a machined BPZE head with a complete valve job combined with a 2nd Gen intake manifold c/w VICS is a better option?

Bottom end is a no brainer...Just compression ratio...BPZE has a higher C/R than that of the BPD...but I was actually looking to go 9.5:1 to improve the sub 3500 RPM performance...

If you could please respond to this one and I'll toss in the BP4W question on the next response!! lol... because I imagine that the BP26 cams will become thing of the past if I go that route, right?

[Mazda_Powered]

n/a head, 2nd gen intake, bp26 cams, and the valve job sounds like a solid route to follow! I would spend some time with porting/modifying the intake and the ports on the cylinder head if you can, it'll be all for a better good lol.

I notice with my VICS open at around 5K the top end just pulls like a banshee lol, just did a 130mph run last night and let me tell you it didn't take long! haha

As for the c/r ratio, 9.5:1 should be ok with the VF-12.

BP4W head is a complete different monster and ya, bp26 intake cam wouldn't be of any use to you...exhaust one should?

edit: nice price on these rods!!! http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MAZDA1-6-1-8-...#ht_2121wt_901

they can add ARPs for $40 extra, so that's $280 on rods/fasteners.

[FE3-323]

i personally wouldn't recommend a BP with compression anything below 9.5:1 its a whole different beast if you give it compression.

[mx-3_4evr]

i personally wouldn't recommend a BP with compression anything below 9.5:1 its a whole different beast if you give it compression.

True that! ;p

[Wilyb]

FE3 Madness

After all the talk about replacing my engine with a GTR, I've decided to follow another alternative...

$1000 and 2 trips to Montreal later I now own a 2.0 litre Mazda FE engine complete with transmission, ECU, wiring harness.
After scrutinizing it for a while, I finally gave up and decided that I would not be going with power steering...So I'll get the MX3 rack depowered and install it... what convinced me was the fact that now as you can see in the pics there is only one belt: crank to alt...If I left the P/S pump on, I would have another oddball pulley... But I won't dump it... I'm sure I can also use a ZX2 rack... I'll keep that one and should I decide to go back to power steering I'll use it...

[FE3-323]

man those motors are pristine!
wish i had a good distributor for mine.

i could potentially design another bracket to hold the power steering assembly for use in a BG. im not personally fond on PS but some are.

[Mazda_Powered]

awesome man!! those look realllll clean too, nice score

[IMACHU2]

So will it be a 8CYL? Twin FE3's?

[Mazda_Powered]

man that'd be nuts lol, even in n/a form! 170hp per engine...pushing a 2300-2500lbs car...mmm lol

[mazda1993]

In witch jdm shop did you bought them?

[Wilyb]

Fe3

Sunrise... one left...

I was going to start a new thread titled for the FE3, but didn't know what to title it. WILYB's LiL'L BEE 93 PRO GT FE3 DOHC...yeah... it may rhyme but would look and sound reedeequluss...I'll just redo my first page with links: body, Subframes, Engine, Powertrain.


My first inspection of the FE3 revealed some things...Some or most I don't have the answers to. Your intelligent input is always welcome...

First is this broken wire that's related to deceleration control...tried to solder it but there wasn't enough wire at the probe end.

I assume the replacement includes the wire to the connector.

So first is to find out EXACTLY what American/ Canadian equivalent I have for engine parts...

And a very close second is to find manuals on the FE3

[Wilyb]

Slave Cylinder

Slave cylinder's cast attachments points busted... must have been during transit from Asia... I hear the containers are packed pretty tight...

[Wilyb]

2 Sensors

Two sensors... the one on right I assume is the oil pressure sending unit... Could the left one be a knock sensor?

And it looks like I have a 4 wire O2 sensor...Ok... I think this can give me an idea of the year of the engine... The guy said mine is 87 or 88, but I think it's more recent than that...when did the JDM introduce the 4 wire O2 sensor and the knock sensor (if that's what it is) ?