Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sarge's 1990 4WD Protege Worklog

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #46
    Well, it's been awhile since I've done anything to the car. Drove it all winter, and part of the spring, then I started driving the 323 again (better fuel economy.)

    So, now the Blue 4WD is getting some attention again!

    It's getting new rotors/pads/hardware all around. Not sure what pads I'll use, but I'm thinking most likely the HP+ pads, as I've got a set, and they're a great pad for any spirited driving that happens.

    But, before that, I need to fix the windshield, as I got a fix-it warning from a cop last June. Since I was about to put the car up for a few months, he let me slide by with a warning instead of an actual ticket.

    Around the windshield, there was some little rust bubbling around under the paint. So, I figured I'd chip it off, and see what we got under there. Sorry for the cell-phone pics..

    I took a paint scraper to the bubbly areas, then a wire cup on a drill. Unfortunately, I have a pinky-sized hole in the roof, as well as a couple of pin-holes as well. I think this might take a bit of work to get done right....


    I stopped by CarQuest on the way home from work before starting in on this, knowing that the window would have to come out to investigate the rust completely. I paid about 23 bucks for it, you can find them cheaper online I'm sure. the blade slips under the windshield, and you hold it parallel while pulling on the t-handle to cut through the sealant under the window.


    here it is inserted, ready for pulling.


    The window is OUT! I'm going to vacuum the powdery rust away, then get down to cleaning things, probably tomorrow. The headliner's going to come down, and probably both fenders as well.


    Here's a closer-up view of the area. You can see the headliner poking out underneath the lip of the roofline. Basically, to do any grinding/cutting/welding there, the headliner will get damaged if it stays, so it's going to come down just to be safe. With some quick pokes with an awl, it seems that the lower part is pretty solid, just some surface rust. so just some repair up top. We'll find out more once the flapper wheels come out.


    At this point in time, I might just see what I can do about painting the whole darned car. some of it's pretty oxidized, and a fresh coat will keep things from rusting away for a long time to come.

    --sarge

    Comment


      #47
      por-15?? that rust looks pretty good
      ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

      1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




      I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
      he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

      Comment


        #48
        I'm glad to see you taking this on. I have very much the same problem. Busted windshield and rust showing in just about the same place.

        I've used that windshield extractor before, of course I was out in the sun on a summer day. I'll bet winter time is a different story.
        Last edited by 1st Gen; 11-10-2010, 09:21 PM.
        1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
        1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
        2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
        1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

        Comment


          #49
          Great to see someone taking on this kind of job for sure. My cars need it badly.
          '90 Miata
          '90 Miata
          Taco
          '90 BG 4WD base- sold..

          Comment


            #50
            Sem rust converter and zinc rich primer with a metal etch agent will do do you proud govna.

            Comment


              #51
              are you going to change the color with the application of the fresh paint.
              97 protege dx few mods

              94 escort lx heavily modded

              Comment


                #52
                As for a color-change, probably not right now, but maybe in the spring. I'll need to start driving this car soon, since the heater doesn't work all that great in my 323 right now. (needs a good flush/replacement of the core).


                For the holes, I've kept a green EGT hood (rusted on the leading edge) hood for a few years, just for the sheet metal. So I should be able to make a patch easily enough. Got some abrasives today on lunch, now I wanna hurry up and get home and start in!


                --sarge
                Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 11-11-2010, 03:11 PM.

                Comment


                  #53
                  Did a little bit more stripping/cleaning last night. Then I took an awl and started smackin' the area pretty hard. turned up a few more really thin spots. I need to get some more aggressive abrasives... I'm thinkin' a braided-wire wheel.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    a wirebrush is good to scrap off all the rough rust.... but to do a clean job, you need to sandblast.... as the sand will go in every small hole in the metal so the rust won't come again....

                    for the hole you need to fill them with weld.... but from your picture, you will have a hard time welding them up because the metal around is now very thin and you will get trough the metal .... the best way is to cut your panel and replace it with brand new metal.... if you are willing to pay a little and get a job that wont ever come back again, go to a body shop.....
                    Suzuki SX4 AWD 6MT 2010 : Daily driver
                    Mazda 323 GTX 1988 : Rally Car
                    www.ahurateam.com

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Here's the progress I made over the weekend. What with having to help a friend with some wiring and plumbing in his house, I didn't really get anything done on Saturday, otherwise I'd probably have it sealed up by now. Also remember: I am NOT a professional body guy, I'm probably doing things all wrong. Anyone who is, please chime in to let us know what should be done differently.

                      I yanked the headliner and trimmed a big piece of cardboard, and taped it up on the inside of the windscreen mounting area, to keep dust/sparks out of the interior of the car. Then, I took a dremel cutting disc and sliced out the worst offending sections of roof.


                      Here's where the main rust hole was, and my first cutout. you can see that there was still rust present on the bottom side. That's when I got out the mirror and checked to see how much, and re-trimmed the hole to remove all of it.


                      This section, there were four holes close enough together, that I decided to chop them all out at once. You can see by the underside that the rust wasn't spread nearly as much here as it was on the first one.


                      Then, I dug out the hood that I've had sitting around for about 5 years just for the sheet metal. Here are some of the cuts I made:


                      Here are a couple of patches, to the left of the big hole, that are finished. Basically, I just took a drill, and a deburring tool, and opened up the rusty spots to remove any rust on the underside, then put a square of the donor sheet metal under the hole, then plug welded it. Then just ground the weld down.


                      For the big hole, I didn't have a flanging tool at all, so I just butt-welded the piece in. I'm holding the patch in place using magnets from some old dead computer hard drives, as the magnets are frickin' strong for their size, and very handy lately.


                      and here's the patch mostly welded in. I've got a few more bits to cover, as you can still see the seam where it needs more welding.


                      I hope to get the last patch in tonight. I looked around a bit for some phosphoric acid to coat things with first, after I finish with the wire brush and the grinder, just to be 100% sure that the rust is gone. Then, I'll be coating it with some high-zinc galvanizing primer, then get it sealed up.


                      At this point, I'm almost considering having a buddy paint the car, if he can get it in, and it's not cost prohibitive. I'll try to do as much prep myself as I can. I've already got the fenders off, so it might not be a bad idea to drag the car down there and have him spray it, just to have a good solid coat of paint on it. Still waffling on that subject, though.

                      --sarge
                      Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 11-15-2010, 10:54 AM.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Starting to look much better great work. Can't wait to see it after you are finished.
                        97 protege dx few mods

                        94 escort lx heavily modded

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Looks good. You have done a better job than I did on my truck. You're lucky that you caught it before it spread any further.
                          Last edited by white-lightning; 11-15-2010, 01:35 PM. Reason: typo
                          SPI swapped

                          http://www.cardomain.com/id/WhiteLightning96

                          Comment


                            #58
                            I think a body shop would have just tack welded it then used bondo for the rest. I think your patch if probably a thousand times better. Great work.
                            1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                            1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                            2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                            1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

                            Comment


                              #59
                              well. im impressed sarge.
                              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                              Comment


                                #60
                                nice job! I would still sandblast everything before the self-etching primer
                                Suzuki SX4 AWD 6MT 2010 : Daily driver
                                Mazda 323 GTX 1988 : Rally Car
                                www.ahurateam.com

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X