Project Jay-Spec 323 KLZE

[IMACHU2]

hey, i dont come on here as much as on mx-3.com
for a rad i just picked up a 96? civic hb one (the devil). i have not tried it yet due to i ripped the whole car apart (again) to repaint it. the civic one is only about 16" wide. the problem was with the one i used the first time was the headers were hitting it and i didnt want it to get crushed when shifting gears, other problem was the coolant lines were in bad spots. when i gutted my 323 the only thing besides the body that i reused were the fuel lines, gas tank and heater core. everything else came from my 93 gs se (i know, poor se..it went to the crusher). front and rear sub frame, all wiring, dash, cluster, seats...everything. i will see if any pictures got saved from my last computer when it crashed, dont know what made it from the old hard drive. i should be repainting the 323 here in about 2-3weeks if i have time. if you have any questions just hit me up.

Thanks for all the help guys! The mechanical side of things, I have a good handle on. If the check engine light comes on, well thats another story LOL. Something about a paper clip and blinkin' lights LOL

One thing you guys could tell me though. Swapin' in the MX-3 rear disc brakes, which of the following have to come with it: master? booster? Proportioning valve? (from the MX-3 to the 323) I am thinkin' all three? I heard talk of Protege E-brake cables workin' is this true?? Thanks again.

[jumpncrash]

Proportioning valve for sure, the rest I don't think you need.

as for the ebrake cables I think you need disc brake specific cables, but don't quote me on it, as I haven't done the swap.

Nick

[deadly_sleeper]

you need the porportioning valve, the e-brake cables, and when you swap the rear disc, disconnect the 2 brake lines and remove strut bolts and undo the 4 bolts holding in the rear subframe and the 2 for the front lateral links and that thing will come out easily. maybe spray it with PB a bit before doing it in case there is rust.

[IMACHU2]

Thanks. So the MX-3 parking brake cables work then?

[Dan [Sac]]

I used the complete MX3 rear subframe (fewer fasteners) when going from drums to brakes. Didn't touch anything up front, retained the BG proportioning valve, master cyl and brake booster. Had no issues with that. Just disconnected the flexible rubber line at the center of the subframe and shoved the new unit on, bled the brakes and called it a day.


Boooo on Pacesetter headers - not only is the fitment deplorable, the primaries are thin and will resonate badly, but the secondaries are unequal length and will make the KL sound very...un-smooth, if that's even grammatically possible.

[wheresthericego]

awesome build so far!

[IMACHU2]

I used the complete MX3 rear subframe (fewer fasteners) when going from drums to brakes. Didn't touch anything up front, retained the BG proportioning valve, master cyl and brake booster. Had no issues with that. Just disconnected the flexible rubber line at the center of the subframe and shoved the new unit on, bled the brakes and called it a day.


Boooo on Pacesetter headers - not only is the fitment deplorable, the primaries are thin and will resonate badly, but the secondaries are unequal length and will make the KL sound very...un-smooth, if that's even grammatically possible.

Hey Dan.
I am the manager of a speed shop, the Pacesetter header idea was based on the fact it is the only MX-6 header we sell and I could get my staff discount on it, finace it (with all my other parts) for 12 months, no interest. Hehe.

If it really sucks that bad, what to you think of the E-bay headers? (don't tell my boss). Please remember I am cheap, broke and like you, have another car that eats all my money much faster then I can make it. LOL

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-Probe-MX6-93-94-95-96-97-2-5L-V6-Exhaust-Headers_W0QQitemZ270280399093QQihZ017QQcategoryZ133195QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

[Dan [Sac]]

I had the misfortune of installing a set of EBay headers, and I will never do it again unless I'm getting paid shop rate, hourly. Let's just put it this way - it took me 3 hours to pull a KL motor, and almost 4 hours to install and fit the headers on a KL OUTSIDE OF THE CAR.

The fitment is horrible, the flanges are misaligned (not only do they not 'meet', but they often are off considerably in 2- or even all 3 planes). The EGR pipe is a joke and requires a lot of on-again, off-again trips to the vise to make it 'fit'.

Save your cash, use stock logs for now and when you have enough saved buy Hotshot or Bosal headers (used or new) and it'll save you a lot of labor.


However, if you do enjoy messing with things and money is absolutely sphincter-tight, play with the EBay headers. They will eventually fit, but you'll have a fight on your hands.

[IMACHU2]

Thanks for your opinion Dan. I have a long boring winter ahead of me. I think I will *&%$ with the cheapo headers based on favorable dyno results I have seen. When I am calling them bad names I will remember you told me so. On the other hand, I can get Bosal though my shop, I am going to call Bosal to see if I can still get them. Discontinued lookin?? I will check.

I have not had much of a chance to play with the 323 this week. I went to the shop for a few hours yesterday. I managed to remove the rear suspension, front bumper and lights. I broke one of the rear subframe bolts trying to remove it. That sould be fun to get out! The rear trailing arm bushings are F'd and they won't come out! The nutserts started turning in their cages. (I heated all the bolts with a torch, I used to dismantle cars for a living). I removed the trailing arms from the suspension end for now. I think I am goin to leave them until the car is mobile and take the car down to my friends fabrication shop to plasma cut-out and repair that area. (suspension mounting points in front of the rear wheels). The rust areas in the inner fenders that I was worried about are not really structual, so I am just going to remove the bumpers and clean and fix them up. The rear upper strut mounts looked rough, but on closer inspection they just need a good wire brushin' and some rust paint. I am really happy that the breaking *&%$ portion of the car build is over. I really can't complain as the car is Canadian and 14 years old. The little 323 is really is in good shape considering it's age and the fact I payed $500.00 for it. I am going to spend a couple of weeks fixin' up the 323 then it will be MX-3 parts car time. (Start the whole clean and dismantle phase again). I will post up some pics soon. I have takin the before photos. Time to get to work and then take some after photos

[IMACHU2]

FYI:

The Bosal performance division (brospeed) is no longer. Bosal is just selling off what they have left. Nope......no MX headers left on the shelf

[Mazda_Powered]

pacesetter are supposed to net the most whp gain from all the headers.

JACK.

[IMACHU2]

pacesetter are supposed to net the most whp gain from all the headers.

JACK.

Pacesetter it is then Thanks Guys. (They are very cheap and easy for me to get).I will make them fit if it takes all winter!

[dave0r]

im keen for some headers when i do the KL swap
but in NZ we dont often get these around

it would have to brought from overseas

[IMACHU2]

I got a chance to play with the car again tonight. I removed everything from the engine compartment. I removed the whole wiring harness. (I had 80% of it out last go, so I finished it off). Decided to take off the fenders, doors, hood, wiper cowl, rear bumper and tail lights. The gas tank had been replaced by the previous owner and the lines looked O.K, but I decided to rip all the brake and gas lines out of it, so I could paint the floor properly. Removed the gas tank also. The floor is in really nice shape, so I figured a good coat of rust paint and some asphalt rocker paint should keep it that way. The rust issues are definitely not going to be a big deal. Basically there are rust holes under each bottle! The right rear corner inner fender where the rear washer bottle sits. Front right corner under the front windshield washer bottle. Left front corner under the coolant overflow bottle. Going to wire brush /grind-out the bad and fiberglass them. Figure they are hidden, the holes are not structural and fiberglass makes a good easy repair (if your used to working with it). Besides have you ever seen a rusty Corvette?? I took a whole disposable camera of film today. I will post up the pics as soon as I can. Priced out some new MX-3 trailing arms. They are quite reasonable, so next time out, I am going hack whats left of the 323 ones out / off. I try never to kill things until I price the replacements! I once replaced the rear end in my Lincoln mark VII and I pounded out the control arm bushings because then were shot. It turned out you could not get new ones!! I had to carefully remove them from a car at the wrecker. (At the time the car was old enough that Ford stopped makin' replacement parts and too new for the aftermarket guys to have come up with anything). Looks like you can get just about everything for the MX-323 and everything seems to be quite reasonably priced even for a cheap prick (like myself). I plan to replace all the bushings, ball joints, tie rods, struts, strut mounts, springs so it looks like a old car, but drives like a new one!

[MazdaNoob]

where did you price the trailing arms i need a set myself

oh and while we're @ it .. whats your shop price on a BP pacesetter header