And so it begins....323BG hatch ----> V6 powa with a few extra surprises

[Dan [Sac]]

More hours, more work. Wiring is going very slow though.

Today I got a bracket made for the engine bay fuse boxes, and ran the wiring for the battery relocation.

[crazycanadian]

Wiring looks really good.. Its one of the most time consuming tasks to do for sure.. hopefully once you get over that hurdle things will come together quickly...

[bomdoutscort]

Yeah i can't wait till it passes smog.

[Mazda_Powered]

looking awesome man! I like how you ran the wiring, definitely gives me an idea, hope you don't mind

[Dan [Sac]]

Of course I don't mind

One of the reasons I post so many pics is that maybe someone sees something they like and goes like "oh, that's how that goes...", or learns something. I've learned a lot of things off other people online, watching their builds, seeing how they do things, so this is my way of paying it forward, so to speak.

Today I wired the front turn signals (EDM corners have male plugs, and of course the mx3 harness has male plugs on it as well, so I had to find some female plugs to make it all work). For now I left the EDM lights OEM (with the signal bulb a simple 2-wire, so it won't be on with driving lights, and the 'strip light' on) - if I don't like it I'll switch the signal bulb & socket to a US 3-wire style that allows the bulb to be on but also flash.

I also wired the side markers EDM style, to just be flashers - I usually like them to be on with the driving lights, but I wanted to give this setup a try to see if I like it.

Then I moved the fan relays to the left side of the bay and bolted them on in the apron area, and extended the fan line to the fuse box (which is on the right side now).

I also made a bracket and mounted the coolant overflow tank (the round aluminum thing next to the oil filter housing) and made the -6AN line going to it.

[Dan [Sac]]

Tomorrow I hope to finish bleeding the hydraulic system. Bled the brakes once and the pedal is nice and solid, but I couldn't get the clutch to push more than a little fluid out so I still have quite a bit of air somewhere. No leaks yet so I'm happy about that part at least. Once the clutch is bled I can put the radiator back in and also hook up the heater core.

[Turpro]

Been gone for a week and I come back to this perfection. Great job Dan

[Dan [Sac]]

I bled the brakes again (rock solid), and the clutch still shows no signs of life.

After looking at the assembly in the cabin, I think the issue is that I'm using the 323 pedal set with the mx3 hydraulics - the clutch rod (323) is probably too short to actuate the clutch master cyl (mx3), so I'll have to do a little disassembly to investigate. I'll see how much adjustment I have on the 323 rod but most likely I'll have to find an mx3 rod to make it all work.

[nerd racing]

I have a 626 pedal and rod if you need one man.

[crazycanadian]

I bled the brakes again (rock solid), and the clutch still shows no signs of life.

After looking at the assembly in the cabin, I think the issue is that I'm using the 323 pedal set with the mx3 hydraulics - the clutch rod (323) is probably too short to actuate the clutch master cyl (mx3), so I'll have to do a little disassembly to investigate. I'll see how much adjustment I have on the 323 rod but most likely I'll have to find an mx3 rod to make it all work.

I find often if the master is at all tilted down to the front you will get an impossible air pocket in the master that wont bleed out.. check for that as well.. even with a short push rod you should still be able to get fluid to move and you should be able to bleed out the system...

Also your wiring looks nice with the heat shrink but I notice that its not fully shrunk down tight around the wiring and I am not sure but are you using the weather proof stuff or not?? if its in the engine bay and the car is seeing daily driving you'll want to make sure to use the weather proof stuff.. if not you'll be paying for it in a couple years when you are diagnosing poor connection problems and rotten wiring...

[Dan [Sac]]

I find often if the master is at all tilted down to the front you will get an impossible air pocket in the master that wont bleed out.. check for that as well.. even with a short push rod you should still be able to get fluid to move and you should be able to bleed out the system...

I'll give that a shot, the car was at a very slight slant (front higher on jackstands than rear).

Also your wiring looks nice with the heat shrink but I notice that its not fully shrunk down tight around the wiring and I am not sure but are you using the weather proof stuff or not?? if its in the engine bay and the car is seeing daily driving you'll want to make sure to use the weather proof stuff.. if not you'll be paying for it in a couple years when you are diagnosing poor connection problems and rotten wiring...

After the photos i went over it again with the heat gun, then wrapped it in electrical tape, then the wire loom. We don't get enough weather here to worry much about corrosion. There was 0 rust on this car when I got it also.

[DeeAOne]

heat shrink is the way to go. use it all the time.

[Dan [Sac]]

Today I got the flares mounted and finished the radiator overflow hose and tank install. As mentioned before, this is just the 'show' stance. The car will go up at least 20mm all around, maybe more depending on how the fronts clear the flares in lock-to-lock steer mode under braking.


Radiator - certainly didn't make it easy on myself here, could have chosen a smaller rad, but in the end it all fit with millimeters to spare.




















Front shot, on the ground, with flares (and rear):
























Wheel gap, ridiculously herrafrush:









Coolant overflow, with -6AN line and fittings:












Stance:

[DeeAOne]

i dont know if you remember but im using the same exact one, and it might be big but it works very well. kinda worries me at red lights in the heat though. the gauge climbs to 210 degrees or so. invest in a really good fan.

im using a 180 degree thermostat too.

[corby_baby]

i dont know if you remember but im using the same exact one, and it might be big but it works very well. kinda worries me at red lights in the heat though. the gauge climbs to 210 degrees or so. invest in a really good fan.

im using a 180 degree thermostat too.

most (stock) cooling fans dont turn till the 210-220 point so you are fine.