Ok, that makes alot more sense. I was trying to figure out how the hell you thought you were going to make that much power, or if it was just a typo.
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Concealer404's KLZEscort thread
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Originally posted by concealer404 View Postlots and lots of nitrous!!!!!Dominic Toretto rocks a MaZda and his cell phone number starts in "(323)"
My Work Log:http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46003
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sweeeeeeeeeeeet!!-Jack
ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/
91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)
01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested
91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606
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Write-up and general bitching from the last day or two. Many thanks to 300zxrb26dett for his help on the phone yesterday!
Got some more stuff done in the last couple days. Flushed my brake lines and then bled them with some crappy fluid for the moment. Need to adjust the rear calipers, as i'm now wondering if this is part of the reason the pedal has never felt good on this car. It feels pretty decent now just to start, but i think they could be better.
However, in getting ready to adjust the rear calipers, i was hooking up the parking brake cables, and they're totally hosed. Sigh. Another $50 down the drain for new ones.
Clutch pedal feels good. Nice positive engagement from the 100% self-contained system now, no rubber lines. The South Bend TZ clutch is going to be more streetable than i thought it would, so that's good.
So, as we can see.... i finally have all three pedals!!!
Had a few more setbacks yesterday, unfortunately. Was under the car taking measurements to make a new flywheel dust shield (Lost mine), and noticed that the 4 point tie brace was hitting the Y-pipe. Not much i can do about it. I could shim the back part of the brace down far enough that it would clear, but only by about 1/8", and i don't like the amount of shims necessary for that. Turns out this brace was actually the prototype and the design had since been changed because it didn't clear the exhaust on 1.9 cars, either. Cleared my 1.8 just fine, but not the 2.5. Le sigh.
I'm going to run it anyways for now and swap out for a new one in Spring.
Then i figured that while i was down there, i'd take care of the binding issue that was going on with the passenger suspension. What a nightmare. Not that this was HARD work, just a brain teaser and really repetitive.
The front tubular arms that i have, have rodends in the portion that go into the subframe for adjustment. This adjustment is to correct the geometry/binding issues that happen with this suspension when it's lowered too far. Basically bringing the rodend farther OUT, brings the back "post" of the arm farther "inboard," and vice versa. The only goal here is to adjust the rodend to the point that the "post" on the back of the arm passes through the rear bushing at a perfect 90 degree angle to prevent any sort of binding and reduce/eliminate all stiction.
Easy peasy. In theory.
However, this is a BEAT chassis, and looking underneath it, i don't know how it has a clear title. It's got some frame damage, and the floor right in front of the passenger seat has buckled upwards a good 2". I'm going keep my eyes open for another chassis to fall in my lap, but not really actively look.
I ended up having 5 threads difference between left and right on the rodends, AND had to to shim the passenger arm to directly couple the arm and the bushing about 1/16". Ugh.
The good news: Both sides now move up and down like butter. I've never seen/felt anything like this. The resistance seems to be exactly the same as when i was just pushing on the struts themselves with no springs or anything else attached, outside of the car.
The Bad News: Broke the captive nut on the driver's side of the subframe that holds the through-bolt that attaches the rodend portion of the arm. Just like the passenger side. Sigh.
The Real Bad News: This chassis is crap.
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I may buy that 4-point brace back from you when you get a new one. I regret selling it.92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
"Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
BP Forged H beam rods available now
KL Forged H beam rods available now
K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
FS Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
BP oil jet eliminators
EV14 fuel rail spacers
More stuff coming soon.......
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I still need to grab one. I sold my wagon the first time, while Jim was building them, and I ended up passing on my own group buy.
Getting closer Ben, keep pushing on!Current:
68 Torino GT Fastback
86 MR2
91 F150
94 Escort Wagon BP swap
99 Escort Wagon BP swap
00 Miata LS
08 Arrow AX8
14 Mazda5
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loving your laser think we are the only ones who have v6s in them? the rpf1s are such nice looking wheel will suit it well
great progress haha you must have a well paying job at the rate of this , your build is very similar to what i want to do to my bf .
you going to get a set of shimless solid lifters made for your next rebuild?
etude ftw!
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