300zx's ELX work log

[Mazda_Powered]

It's coming along great! Really starting to "take shape". How much material will you have protruding into the lower half?

[KAinjection]

I am not 100% sure at this point since I have no extra lower manifold to work with. I have been trying to eyeball and use the measuring tape on the one in the car to get an idea, but its hard with so much stuff in the way.

At this point though, I am thinking about 1.5-2" at the most and I wont use any epoxy for that part. I may just get some small aluminum 90 bends and cut them down the middle.

I have also been working on the ports in the head, and ordered some fine grit valve lapping compound to seal the valves better then the normal stuff could do.

[KAinjection]

Continuing from the BBk thread:

You got me thinking more about the tie rod end thing today Jack, so I emailed megan racing about their RX7 bump steer kit and basically they wanted to just give me an answer that it wouldnt work instead of providing me the measurements I asked for, and I asked them 3 times for them. Played dumb. asking me information I already sent originally or resent to them.

Long story short is it wont work anyway due to the stud using a taper to fit the stock location and that wont do me any good since the BG/Kia mounts on top and I need to mount it on the bottom and lower it.

Today I was in the garage and grabbed the Kia knuckle off the shelf and measure the hole. Small end was 12.2 and large end was about 14.5mm. I dug around till I found a short 12mm stud which measures around 11.8mm and 2 of those shouldered flange nuts. Tightened those down on there and you know what? I dont need something to be an exact fit in that hole, those 2 nuts and one end of the hole being nearly the right size is enough to keep it in place, and after thinking about it more, most suspension bolt holes have some slop in them anyway, and the friction from the bolt holds it fine.

So after all that, this is the new and hopefully final plan for a bump steer kit:
12x1.25 heavy duty male rod end
grade 8 or better 12mm threaded stud or long bolt
2 grade 8 or better flanged nylock nuts
something with a inner diameter of 12mm to use for a spacer
normal nylock nut to secure rod end
2 12x1.25 jam nuts

The best part:
I cant find a long nut of any sort anywhere with a 12x1.25 thread to attach the rod end to the inner tie rod.
The solution is :
Cut the threaded part of the old OE inner tie rod off: instant threaded long nut/link I have been looking for all along.

[Mazda_Powered]

Haha glad I've sparked some curiosity! I was planning on getting the bump steer kit for the RX7 if my angles are off, should work ok for my setup...makes sense to why it won't for yours tho! That stinks!

I like your brainstorming though, did you flip the one flanged nut to sit in the tie rod groove? or are you just torquing them to a good number?

[KAinjection]

It wont work for you either though, because if your lowered the tie rod pivot point moved up, so you need to lower it back down like it used to be to basically match the control arm angle.

Nope, both flanged nuts sat on the flat parts of the OE mount point. When I do this I may get a star washer to put under each nut to bite into the metal and then torque them down for extra insurance.

[Mazda_Powered]

oh crap you're right! I'd need to mount it from the bottom as well lol...wonder if the spindle can get machined and have a "slip" cone put in, could be press in, but could also just be held in place with bolt tension.

[KAinjection]

For an OE fit, just drill out the hole and press a steel cone in, or slip it in and add a tack weld. That could work as well.

[shorestiva]

http://store.blackforestindustries.com/tierodfkimkm.html

Just need someone to make a set for a Mazda.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

[Mazda_Powered]

yes we sure do!!! that's awesome!

I wonder what I'm doing today...lol...research!!!

[Mazda_Powered]

Well there's a ton of those flip kits for Jeeps, but I can't find cone size/pitch anywhere

Either way, getting a press/weld in sleeve to flip the tie rod end would be VERY easy to make. Just have to crunch some numbers and get someone to machine them...thoughts?

[KAinjection]

I think its a great idea. Could be a good idea for a kit for Jim to have made for us.

Technically the bronze flange bushing on Mcmaster Carr could be used, but I dont think the bronze would work, something in steel would be better.

A bushing style like the bronze bushing could be inserted for people who want to run a rod end like me and a tapered one could be made for people that want to use the OE tie rod end.

Next group buy?

[ftjandra]

I could definitely machine something like this. I don't know if Jim has access to a lathe/mill?

--Ferdi

[Mazda_Powered]

I thought you or Jim could shed some light on that subject! I was going to send you a PM about this, but no need to now lol

[KaleoXtreme]

Awwww snap! Count me in!!! Lol

[KAinjection]

I could definitely machine something like this. I don't know if Jim has access to a lathe/mill?

--Ferdi

I have no idea if he does either, but if your willing to make them, I am game.

I had a thought though instead of tack welding an insert in or pressing one in. Make one that basically taps in with a hammer with the flange on top, that way when you need to remove the tie rod, the bushing wont be stuck to the tie rod stud, and it will stay in the hole. The stud from the bottom and nut on top would secure it in place.

Perhaps the ones posted for jeeps are like this, but I didnt bother to look.

What would you recommend Ferdi as far as drilling out the knuckle? How much material needs removed for an insert to work well? i.e. what kind of wall thickness do these need to be?