300zx's ELX work log

[ftjandra]

I don't have a tie rod in front of me to look at, but does the base of it sit flush against the knuckle when tightened? Or, is it all in the conical stud (I think it is)? If it's all in the cone, then your idea of putting in the bushing from the top wont work because the tie rod and bushing could just be pushed up together as one until the base of the tie rod touches the knuckle. Maybe I am just picturing it wrong...

I wouldn't make the wall of the insert thinner than 1/16".

--Ferdi

[Mazda_Powered]

here's a pic of my old tie rod ends lol, looks to be all cone, no lip to rest on

[KAinjection]

I don't have a tie rod in front of me to look at, but does the base of it sit flush against the knuckle when tightened? Or, is it all in the conical stud (I think it is)? If it's all in the cone, then your idea of putting in the bushing from the top wont work because the tie rod and bushing could just be pushed up together as one until the base of the tie rod touches the knuckle. Maybe I am just picturing it wrong...

I wouldn't make the wall of the insert thinner than 1/16".

--Ferdi

Your right, it would. Ok I guess it would have to be the other way then, no problem.

Do you want knuckle measurements or can you just go off the Moog measurement specs they provide for their tie rod ends?

[shorestiva]

I need two sets if someone makes some. If you want to start a gb on them you might be able to sell a few on the stiva forums. IIRC you need to use bg tie rods when you swap aspire brakes.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

[ftjandra]

I can make them to whatever specs you want. I'd prefer a complete drawing/sketch of exactly what you want.

Do you have a link to the Moog specs?

--Ferdi

[KAinjection]

I have specs listed on the first page of my worklog on post 11.

I will try to come up with a sketch later for you.

[ftjandra]

Stud Diameter Dimension C: .517"
Stud Diameter Dimension D: .591"

I found that info too, but without a height distance between 'C' and 'D' I can't calculate the taper angle.

I have a knuckle and an old tie rod somewhere. If I get a chance, I'll measure them myself. But, you should too so we can compare.

--Ferdi

[Mazda_Powered]

Cone size should be 13.5mm I will have access as well to a couple knuckles and possibly a tie rod on monday.

edit: sorry, I believe 13.5mm is the tie rod cone length, but the knuckle is 13.3, hopefully one of us can get to a spindle soon lol.

[KAinjection]

I will measure my BG knuckle/tie rod and my Kia knuckle I have in the garage, but I personally dont need a taper on that one. Just a standard flange bushing that will fit a 12mm bolt or stud snugly. Actually a non flanged bushing would work in my case as well.

[ftjandra]

I lied, I don't have an old tie rod to measure. Somebody have a worn one to send me?

--Ferdi

[Mazda_Powered]

I will in a day or two (or at least I should)

[KAinjection]

Here are some measurements and sketches: I measured my recently replaced tie rod, and the thickness of the knuckle for the BG and Kia

[ftjandra]

Beautiful sketch!

What about the cotter pin? The tie rod will move down .100" due to the insert's flange (you drew it as 1/16", but I'd go to .100" for the flange). And, once the knuckle is drilled out to 3/4", the oe castle nut's diameter will be too small - so a washer will need to be used on top, adding another ~1/16". For safety, a new hole for the cotter pin should be drilled. I guess the Kia tie rods have the cotter pin holes higher up since the knuckle is thicker? If I remember correctly, the threads on the tie rods are plenty long.

--Ferdi

[KAinjection]

Thanks I spent the last 45min on it haha.

Well I was thinking just using a flanged nylock nut if there wasnt room for the cotter pin hole due to everything moving. I figured with a flanged nut, there wouldnt be a need for a washer, but I am just guessing since I dont know exactly what size the nut would be.

Perhaps the the bushing height should be slightly smaller then the actual hole, so that when everything is tightened down securely, the bushing does not get distorted from being squished. Yes I think I have close to a 1/2" of thread sticking past the castle nut on mine, but I will check tomorrow to be sure.

Flange thickness and diameter outside the 3/4" I will leave up to what you think is best

[ftjandra]

I was thinking of making the insert .730" tall. I'll start with 1" OD material, so the flange will be around 1".

Now, the question is how close to .75" is a hand-drilled hole gonna be? They usually come out slightly over-sized.

I was thinking of making the first .100" of the insert .749" to help get it started straight and then making the remainder .752". You can always heat up the knuckle a bit to expand it and/or use loctite if your drilled hole is way oversize.

Are the Aspire knuckles the same thickness as the Mazda/Ford BG knuckles at ~.75"? How many people are using Kia BG knuckles? I'd rather only make one length of insert.

Probably looking at $20 per set. How many people would be in at this price?

--Ferdi