300zx's ELX work log

[Iantboyd]

No problem. Those MT.net guys can be total assholes but they document things fairly clearly and completely.

[KAinjection]

Part number# ZM0111408

It can also be looked up under 2000 protege 1.6L

I actually installed it today on the Kia crank pulley I have and it is a perfect fit.

Almost finished assembling the MS3. It was a little more work then I anticipated converting it from a MS1 but pretty straight forward, just have to finish soldering all the wires to the BOB/adapter harness.

[FE3-323]

wish they had something like this for the FE3 :/

[KAinjection]

I have never seen a pulley from an FE3. How much different is it from a BP?

Is there a chance that the Kia FE3 had something like this since it came in later years?

[FE3-323]

lol nope. the kia uses a pickup on the flywheel instead of on the crank pulley. its a neat idea. altho adds a bit more rotational weight into the scenario then a thin plate on the crank pulley.
regardless. right now i can't even utilize that since im running the H trans.
the FE3 has a 6 bolt crank pulley with a slightly uneven spacing. it might be feasible to retrofit this. but id almost need to buy one to directly compare it.

[KAinjection]

The part cost me approx $20 shipped so its not that expensive. Might be worth a shot. Either that or get the universal weld on wheels, although if you have to weld it on you may as well weld this one.

[KAinjection]

I think i am going to change directions with this build.

Time to start collecting parts to drop in an F2/FE3 Hybrid engine.

Parts list:
1: Passenger side F2 bracket
2: Passenger side MX3 GS mount
3: F2 G-transmission
4: F2 engine and Kia FE3 head or just bolt the FE3 head to the F2 block at the JY and take it up to pay as a complete engine, haha

[cybrphantom]

Why the change in direction what's hapenning to bp and parts ?

[KAinjection]

Since I want to stay N/A and the BP is honestly too expensive to get maximum displacement from it and your still limited to its terrible rod ratio in the end.

I can drop this combo in without doing anything to it and have more displacement then the BP can give me with a better rod ratio. Plus I can always increase the displacement over the 2.2L, and its cheaper. The BP will remain to help me get the MS running and tuned and then when I move back into a house again I can start working on the swap and the BP will be parted out.

Plus I think 2 of the cylinders in the BP are hosed and compression overall is a little low. I tried to cram too much stuff into 2 small of a time frame and had too many issues with little stuff that caused me to really miss my opportunity to break the engine in correctly as I was spending too much time with it idling in the driveway trying to work out all the bugs before I took it for its first test drive/break in run. On top of that 1 of the GTX injectors I installed to fix my fuel problem was leaking this whole time and just dumping into cylinder 2 and it has the lowest compression. Re-installed stock injectors to run in it for now and just drive it easy. It does however still feel better power wise then before the rebuild, but its for sure not what it should be. Oh and I think the crank pulley is no good either since I cant seem to set ignition timing correctly at all according to the mark on the pulley, plus it wobbles.

I suppose I could pull it apart run a ball hone down the cylinder bores and re-ring it but IDK if I want to now.

[KAinjection]

I also want to find a MX-3 GS steering rack and steering column to swap into my car as well.

[KAinjection]

Reinstalled the catalytic converter yesterday and took it to emissions today.....I failed

Car barely failed the test, but here were the results: They go by Grams/Mile

HC---- .91 .80 Allowed
CO---- 6.44 12.00 Allowed
NOX---2.09 2.00 Allowed

I need to do some checking of my plug condition, check my compression and check my timing.


After installing the cat on the exhaust, which is my old cat so It reduces down from my 3" pipe to 2" at the cat inlet and outlet, I had to remove a lot of fuel with the VAF lol.

[crazycanadian]

Reinstalled the catalytic converter yesterday and took it to emissions today.....I failed

Car barely failed the test, but here were the results: They go by Grams/Mile

HC---- .91 .80 Allowed
CO---- 6.44 12.00 Allowed
NOX---2.09 2.00 Allowed

I need to do some checking of my plug condition, check my compression and check my timing.


After installing the cat on the exhaust, which is my old cat so It reduces down from my 3" pipe to 2" at the cat inlet and outlet, I had to remove a lot of fuel with the VAF lol.

Normally with an OEM ECU/set up the only way to have high HC and high NOx, would be a bat cat.... I am not sure what the average or normal readings would be for CO in your states testing, but that would be a factor in deciding if you have a fueling issue or not..

[crazycanadian]

Also watch the Mx3 GS column... I don't think it will swap right in... I was playing with one in my 323 and I couldn't make it fit with out modifications... Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures though..

[KAinjection]

I wasnt suspecting the cat only because its less then 2 years old, but it is a cheap generic unit and the engine was burning some serious oil before the rebuild so maybe it is going bad....

I was thinking to try the alcohol in the tank and retarding the timing trick my coworker mentioned he did with his car.

The MX3 column you say? I would have never guessed I will have to check that out next junkyard trip.

[MazdaNoob]

methyl hydrate and reducing the timing 2-3 degrees will help alot with the hc's not so much with the nox and run just below the max rpm for the idle test ( should be 1250 rpm so run at 1100 )