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no13regrets klde + boost 323 build

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    #16
    Originally posted by no13regrets View Post
    i would preffer not to swap the sub frame if i dont have to

    I don't think you have to. The subframe itself shouldn't be any different. Unless that's a 323-specific thing.

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      #17
      Originally posted by concealer404 View Post
      I don't think you have to. The subframe itself shouldn't be any different. Unless that's a 323-specific thing.
      from what i been reading on bg 323 mx3 axles and control arms should be enough to make it work

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        #18
        Originally posted by no13regrets View Post
        from what i been reading on bg 323 mx3 axles and control arms should be enough to make it work

        Sounds right to me. (Better be, because that's all i did.....)

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          #19
          Originally posted by concealer404 View Post
          Sounds right to me. (Better be, because that's all i did.....)
          i still have to hunt down mx3 LCA's hopefully before this weekend so i could work on it

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            #20
            Sub frame is different. Mx3 has longer control arms and shorter sub. Also have to consider what sway bar to run. Running the mx3 control and sub you can run mx3 sway. Just running mx3 arms you'd have to run a something for connecting sway and arms.
            1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
            1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
            2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
            2010 VW routon

            Originally posted by jay
            .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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              #21
              Originally posted by Turpro View Post
              Sub frame is different. Mx3 has longer control arms and shorter sub. Also have to consider what sway bar to run. Running the mx3 control and sub you can run mx3 sway. Just running mx3 arms you'd have to run a something for connecting sway and arms.
              Ugh. You've gotta be kidding me. Not one person said anything about running the subframe in the multiple times i asked this very question. Just said to run the MX3 arms and axles and have a great day.

              I'm not worried about the sway bar thing, the EGT bar lines up fine with the arms, but i AM worried about axle length if this is going to be all ****ed up.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by concealer404 View Post
                Ugh. You've gotta be kidding me. Not one person said anything about running the subframe in the multiple times i asked this very question. Just said to run the MX3 arms and axles and have a great day.

                I'm not worried about the sway bar thing, the EGT bar lines up fine with the arms, but i AM worried about axle length if this is going to be all ****ed up.
                same here man. i been asking people and everybody tells me that only mx3 axles and LCA's needed. i believe my 323 has no swaybar in the front. is it necessary to have it?

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by no13regrets View Post
                  same here man. i been asking people and everybody tells me that only mx3 axles and LCA's needed. i believe my 323 has no swaybar in the front. is it necessary to have it?
                  Necessary to have a sway bar? I like swaybars.


                  Buuuuut... there are people out there that don't run them and just run appropriately stiffer coil springs.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by concealer404 View Post
                    Necessary to have a sway bar? I like swaybars.
                    Buuuuut... there are people out there that don't run them and just run appropriately stiffer coil springs.
                    how would you benefit from swaybar in straight line drag application? sorry noob question haha

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by no13regrets View Post
                      how would you benefit from swaybar in straight line drag application? sorry noob question haha
                      Ehhhh... all other things being prepped and set up correctly, you probably wouldn't. I wouldn't call it a make or break, especially considering stock swaybar sizes on these chassis.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by concealer404 View Post
                        Ehhhh... all other things being prepped and set up correctly, you probably wouldn't. I wouldn't call it a make or break, especially considering stock swaybar sizes on these chassis.
                        i guess i will figure out if i need it or not when the time comes

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by no13regrets View Post
                          were you running k8 mx3 motor? any numbers or track times with that setup?
                          No, that was a klde with a k8 intake Mani. I got burned on a milli manifold, and had to run that k8 mani as a last resort. That manifold sucks ass though.

                          A few days after I took those pics, my Miata got totaled, and I was forced to finish the swap in a rush, which meant no time for tuning, so I slapped a block off plate on the hotside, pulled the CHRA and compressor, and ran it N/A so I had something to drive. Then that motor spun a rod bearing, so I grabbed on 02 milli motor, slapped some headers on it, and stuffed that in without the turbo. It Zlyrisist's old setup off the white mx6, if you're familiar with that car. Eventually I will use it, but I have other priorities right now.
                          Current:
                          68 Torino GT Fastback
                          86 MR2
                          91 F150
                          94 Escort Wagon BP swap
                          99 Escort Wagon BP swap
                          00 Miata LS
                          08 Arrow AX8
                          14 Mazda5

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                            #28
                            Wow, lots of conversation back and forth about different stuff.. Kind hard to keep track off..

                            Anyways... I am assuming this car is purely a drag car correct??? If its not then, I would have some slightly different advice...

                            So assuming it is...

                            Axle issues... Option 1) look into Kia BP axles.. They should be 28 spline, should fit the mx3 transmission and will work for the stock 323 track width... probably my #1 option to look into, keep reading below about tie rod lengths as to why I would go this rout...

                            Option 2) split the stock 323 axles and mx3 axles... Make hybrid axles using the mx3 inner cv joint, and the 323 center shaft and outer cv joint... (I have done this with other cars it can be a very easy job. Never done it on an mx3/323 axle though)

                            Option 3) stock 323 sub frame, mx3 LCA.. The only problem doing this would be your sway bar.. Mx3 mounts their sway bars differently then the 323, so your stock 323 bar wont work with out some modifications to either the end link or the control arm... Or you just run no front bar.. Being a drag car that wont be a problem...

                            Option 4) stock 323 LCA and Rx7 ball joints... You'll need to either drill out your knuckle to fit the ball joint, or you will need some 94+ mx3 knuckles that have the larger ball joints to make it a bolt in set up... Check out my build thread for all the info you need


                            Increasing the front track width you may also run into issues with your tie rods.. mx3 has longer inner tie rods to make up for the increased track width, using mx3 control arms and a stock 323 steering rack and tie rods gets pretty closed to maxed out... I had a stock 323 non power rack in my car when I first got it.. There were an iffy amount of threads left on the inner tie rod by the time I got the wheel aligned properly.. This isn't the first time I have heard of that problem either... You can try it and see...


                            My car might as well be an mx3 with the way its been built... to be honest it is by far the easiest way to go and know that you wont have issues... I run mx3 sub frame, mx3 axles, mx3 mounts, mx3 power searing rack, mx3 tie rods, rx7 ball joints..

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Be careful with part store axles. There have been talks of the axles being different lengths depending on the manufacturer. KIA bp 94-97 axles are the same part number as the mx3 v6 axles(dr side anyways) according to AutoZone and advanced auto.
                              1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                              1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                              2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                              2010 VW routon

                              Originally posted by jay
                              .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by crazycanadian View Post

                                Increasing the front track width you may also run into issues with your tie rods.. mx3 has longer inner tie rods to make up for the increased track width, using mx3 control arms and a stock 323 steering rack and tie rods gets pretty closed to maxed out... I had a stock 323 non power rack in my car when I first got it.. There were an iffy amount of threads left on the inner tie rod by the time I got the wheel aligned properly.. This isn't the first time I have heard of that problem either... You can try it and see...


                                Just to check myself before i wreck myself...

                                I'm running:

                                MX3 rack
                                MX3 tie rods (inner and outer)
                                MX3 axles
                                MX3 arms (Jim's)
                                EGT subframe
                                EGT balljoints

                                Bueno?

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