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    I read that code b is what works

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      I bet it is time for a 4 wire tps
      Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
      "Who Dey"

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        I'd keep the U code on and get a 4 wire TPS. Check your Spark gap and make sure its between .028-.032.
        Last edited by bomdoutscort; 09-15-2015, 12:50 PM.
        Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
        "Who Dey"

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          Originally posted by bomdoutscort View Post
          I'd keep the U code on and get a 4 wire TPS. Check your Spark gap and make sure its between .028-.032.
          I was eventually going to get to the 4 wire TPS.
          Thanks for the info!

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            never downgap your plugs. / rant you will never reach a point on this turbo setup or ecu setup where you would need to change the plug gap.
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            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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              I'm still going lean. I put in the new rx8 injectors (~350cc). I adjusted the U code vaf to idle about 10:1, and there's less backfire, but there's no avoiding it. It's undriveable unless you find an rpm that doesn't backfire and stay on that rpm. RAWR.

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                the injectors are probably too big still. Im not sure on proteges but the stock ecu on miatas can only handle 265cc at most without running lean. I have a set of miata tan top injectors, cheap if you want them. 4 wire vtps is awesome and def reccomend getting one.

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                  Originally posted by Dparks7 View Post
                  the injectors are probably too big still. Im not sure on proteges but the stock ecu on miatas can only handle 265cc at most without running lean. I have a set of miata tan top injectors, cheap if you want them. 4 wire vtps is awesome and def reccomend getting one.
                  sooo you're telling me i'm running lean because my injectors are too big? stock gtx injectors are 330ccish-360ccish.
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                    maybe I miss read but you are on the stock ecu? could be not enough pressure at the rail due to bigger injectors using more fuel, ****ty spray due to low pressure can cause funny stuff to happen. ok so gtx ecu, but rx8 injectors are they yellow? if so they are 440s not 350cc. honest opinion. get a 4 wire tps, and a megasquirt, get rid of the vaf and other pains.
                    Last edited by Dparks7; 09-22-2015, 12:23 PM.

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                      Originally posted by Dparks7 View Post
                      maybe I miss read but you are on the stock ecu? could be not enough pressure at the rail due to bigger injectors using more fuel, ****ty spray due to low pressure can cause funny stuff to happen. ok so gtx ecu, but rx8 injectors are they yellow? if so they are 440s not 350cc. honest opinion. get a 4 wire tps, and a megasquirt, get rid of the vaf and other pains.
                      gtx ecu. No they're not the 440s. I appreciate your honest opinion.

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                        Originally posted by Dixie94Pro View Post
                        Not sure what YOU heard, but what I heard was hitting a brick wall!

                        The car won't crank unless I retard the timing. I can then put it back to 12* and crank it at 12* when it's warm. It's not an easy crank, but it does crank

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                        Before going standalone, are you 100% certain the crank and cam sprockets are dead-on timing? How old is the timing belt and tensioner? When I reassembled my motor I re-used the existing old tensioner, it ran poorly, wouldn't rev past 4500 RPM and struggled to idle at 500-600RPM without some throttle input. The sprockets were lined up correctly when I reassembled everything. When I ripped off the timing assembly the crank was 20° off after 200 miles. New tensioner solved the problem.

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                          Originally posted by boosted94 View Post
                          Before going standalone, are you 100% certain the crank and cam sprockets are dead-on timing? How old is the timing belt and tensioner? When I reassembled my motor I re-used the existing old tensioner, it ran poorly, wouldn't rev past 4500 RPM and struggled to idle at 500-600RPM without some throttle input. The sprockets were lined up correctly when I reassembled everything. When I ripped off the timing assembly the crank was 20° off after 200 miles. New tensioner solved the problem.
                          Yeah I'm not going standalone any time soon, if ever.
                          To my knowledge, the timing belt hasn't been replaced. It hasn't hit 60k miles yet [emoji6]

                          I'll probably replace it since it's about time.

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                            Took all the covers and belts off and my timing hasn't moved.
                            I still don't know why I'd have turn the distributor to get it to crank.

                            I'm guessing the base timing must be screwed up. With ten + gnd jumped, the idle is way too low/nonexistent.
                            Maybe I need to plug up the bp10 ecu, set base timing, and see what happens.

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                              please for the love of god throw a different disty on there & let me know what happens
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                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                                Enviado desde mi GT-S5830M usando Tapatalk 2

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