Jackstand Racer Needing slicks and tune.

[wknd326]

I moved on to the intercooler water pump. I found a fuel pump bracket and took some steel from the scrap pile and si far so good. will mig this. Don't want to use gas and will do it on the car as opposed to taking it all apart for a few inches of steel.

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[wknd326]

There we go. Made a dimple in it too. I wanted to test out the tool on 1/16 steel. Works good. Gonna reinstall and fix the wires tidy.

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[wknd326]

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[wknd326]

All done

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[wknd326]

I got some poly bushings from a job I did last week. The owner had me replace all his Jeep controls arms for adjustable ones with a few heim joints. He gave me all the old ctrl arms. Ends up being quite the blessing. I needed bushings in my front ctrl arms. They're all 1.5in or 38 mm bushings with 1/2 pin centers. Perfect! All I needed to do was cut the pin shorter and sand down the bushings a few mm's. Here's one done.

Here's one of the old Jeep arms.

Need some sway bar links though. Mine broke like twigs.

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[FE3-323]

sweetness! poly should feel a bit firmer than OE rubber, heims are the ideal way to go tho

[wknd326]

Anything is better then my loose front bushings at this moment.

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[FE3-323]

oh no! yours was actually worn out that bad eh. which side?

[wknd326]

Left side loose. Still going to do both.

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[FE3-323]

[wknd326]

Alright second side done. Got my sway bar in and new links installed. It nice to see some new colorful parts instead of junkyard custom rusty spare bin stuff.

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[wknd326]

Shiny new stuff in a Canadian rust bucket.

Let's go blow it up!

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[FE3-323]

you'll like the mazda 6 brakes much more VS the stock oddball shiz
altho im slightly confused.... did you add any longer wheel studs/spacers behind the rotor? how are you managing to fit them on GD turbo front hubs

[wknd326]

yeh the difference is about 1.5mm. Sketchy spacer behind disc. I have plenty of threads. So far nothing ever came loose and I've done about 250km with the car.

I went to work and aligned the car. My rack is maxed out for toe in. The camber and caster is almost non existent. I need longer ball joints to make up some camber and toe in. At least now the car goes pretty straight compared to what it was. Might buy adjustable top plates or make my own. I'm not sure how far I want to go with this right now. Important part is it doesn't want to throw me in the ditch everytime I boost. The stock top plates are 1/2 degree adjustable for caster or camber, also 1 side for caster AND camber. But it still wasn't enough to get anywhere over 1 degree caster and -1camber.

Car definitely needs a bottom end and a catch can. It's got mad blowby and rod number 1 is slowly but surely eating away its bearing. I'm really happy that I got this far with the project. I'll be making the catchcan and saving money all winter to build a solid bottom. I've dialed back the boost to about 10psi and its happy there but its not fun like 20+.
Also have a solid lifter prototype that I need to test. I'm better off testing it in this engine because its getting pulled later anyway.

Brought it to the track late last night. Had time for 4 runs back to back no tuning. Just for fun. It was horribly slow! Driver errors and misfires. Started in 2nd gear. best 60ft was 2.5s. Best ET was 16.89 @ 91mph. Different runs though. best Et had a 60ft of 3.4 seconds. I didn't use antilag and it bogged down hard. So it was a huge failure but i'm happy I took it out before the track closes this season. It will be a whole new story next summer.

[FE3-323]

****, your lucky. i needed a 3mm spacer behind my disks. I gave up that route & decided to machine the GD turbo hubs down to fit into BG bearings & imported myself a set of astina spindles.
I encourage this route if at all possible, it will fix alot of your alignment woes in 1 swoop.
great to hear you got it out to the track, any chance you took some amazing pictures to share?