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Not sure. OEM diameter lip to lip seems to be 6". This is about 4.5".
Using that, circumference of each is about 18.85" and 14.14" respectively. I'll throw a string around it later and see what i need. The whole pulley isn't in contact so i can't just subtract the circumference difference. I'd hazard a guess at it needing to be 3.5"-4" shorter.
damn. 3-4" is a bit more than i anticipated. jump on gates website or something & do some digging around. you should be able to come up with a handy solution that way.
damn. 3-4" is a bit more than i anticipated. jump on gates website or something & do some digging around. you should be able to come up with a handy solution that way.
Correct belt is 5050320. Doesn't seem to be commonly stocked anywhere. Had to drive to 5 different FLAPs to get it.
Now everyone knows. You know. For allll those people that will be messing with an UR underdrive crank pulley in the coming years.
Updates. Car should be as wrapped-up as i'm going to get it this week. Which is good. I like helping people out and it's been nice putting all my old parts on a car that someone will enjoy instead of the trainwreck that happened with mine.... but i have my own s*** to work on, and i'm about done forever with these old FWD Mazdas.
Removed old rear subframe and suspension. Rear brake hard lines are rusty. Driver's side snapped. Passenger side survived, but is marginal. I'm leaving these disconnected, he will have to have them sorted later. I don't really have the tools to make new lines easily, and that's a liability i don't particularly want anyways. 20170701_181016 by concealer404, on Flickr
Jim's subframe going up. Nice piece. Had to enlarge the main mounting holes a touch, i suspect mild differences between his jig and a 27 year old 230k mile car are to be expected. No provisions for rear brake line junction, not surprising, as this is an MX3-size piece, and i don't remember what those looked like. He'll have to have some sort of a solution when the rear lines are replaced. 20170701_181720 by concealer404, on Flickr
And mounted. I'll have to figure out what to do about the sway bar brackets, unless someone has a part number for bracket and poly bushing that would already work? 20170701_184508 by concealer404, on Flickr
And not thinking.... here i am realizing that the BG tie brace won't fit on an MX3 subframe. Derp. Not that it's needed with this awesome subframe anyways. 20170701_191710 by concealer404, on Flickr
Corksport lines, Porterfield R4S pads, Pierce ALL THE THINGS, race valved konis, ground controls, 500lb springs. 20170701_191734 by concealer404, on Flickr
Remember the transmission crossmember that wasn't actually attached? Fixed that. Still had a set of Ferdi's delrin bushings laying around. 20170701_201529 by concealer404, on Flickr
Crossmember from my old Escort. Front holes were drilled out to accept the larger studs of the AWR Probe front mount that we're using. 20170701_201513 by concealer404, on Flickr
Finished prepping new motor. Was kindof a nightmare. Both motors (one existing from Protege, and the ZE from the MX3) had all kinds of vaccuum issues and neither had the PCV hooked up properly, so that took some sorting. 20170702_151914 by concealer404, on Flickr
I think another 4-6 hours of work should have this largely done. Need to do:
1) install shifter/linkage assembly
2) install front control arms/suspension/hubs/brakes
3) install axles
4) source gaskets and hardware for header collectors to 2-1 pipe
5) install KL36 ecu
5.5) install distributor and starter
6) hook up engine harness and coolant hoses
7) see if i can easily improve upon the intake the car had, and swap in JE50 VAF
8) Figure out something with battery. The King6 upper trans mount doesn't have provisions for the tray, existing battery is dead, and we're out of time/budget for a relocation at the moment.
9) Make sure it starts
10) bolt on wheels
11) trailer it back to its home
any chance of the later model 626 maf setup going on instead of that ancient torpedo VAF crap? scott in rockford still puts together drop in kits last i knew.
and man that subframe sure looks sexy. I have to unbox mine one of these days & see how it looks. (good info knowing that i need to add on a mount for the rear brake line distribution block.
in the future if you need to replace brake lines the NiCopper stuff is absolute gold (also in color) harbor frieght has brake line flare kits that work perfect for dirt cheap too. the NiCopper line flares perfect everytime.
No, I'm good. My wallet is hurting enough as it is lol. My mind set is to get all the known issues fixed and drive it as is, for now
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
We can talk about MAF vs. a standalone for down the road when we hand off the car in the next few days. I'll try to remember to print off a sheet of things that need to be addressed for you to have as well.
We can talk about MAF vs. a standalone for down the road when we hand off the car in the next few days. I'll try to remember to print off a sheet of things that need to be addressed for you to have as well.
Complete driver front corner. Imagine the passenger front looking the same in your mind. 20170708_213842 by concealer404, on Flickr
O2 sensor decided it wanted to break instead of actually unthreading from the old manifolds. I was not happy. 20170708_140616 by concealer404, on Flickr
Snapped a distributor bolt during install. With a 1/4" short ratchet. By hand. In an aluminum head. I have no explanation, but i assure you, i was irate. Nothing like extracting a friggin snapped off bolt from an aluminum head at 11:45pm. 20170708_233311 by concealer404, on Flickr
Not pictured: Getting to fix a dropped shifter (Cool trick, BGs.) at 11:15pm.
Engine bay largely complete. It ran shortly after this, and woke the dead. (Open primaries) 20170709_001336 by concealer404, on Flickr
I'm about to head back out and button up a few things.
1) Swap to JE50 vaf and KL36 ecu
2) put on wheels/tires
3) Install Y pipe and bolt up to existing exhaust
4) Let it run for longer than 5 seconds and make a reasonable attempt at firing a timing gun at it.
5) Tow it back to the rightful owner
5.5) regain control of my garage space
5.99) Rebuild race Miata in 7 days
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