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new clutch in - no grip?

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    #31
    lol. there is an empty line after that sentence. and an afterthought. maybe you should learn to POST properly so people wouldn't have troubles misreading your posts?

    anyways, enough bickering (afterthought...).

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      #32
      yeah i had hella problems with that gay slave cylinder rod.

      But mine was direct opposite. my act wouldjnt' disengage completely when I went to shift. I had to cut a peice of rod stock about 1" longer than the stock one for it to have normal operation again


      also did you bleed the clutch line? Won't have any real effect on it not engaging all the way but will help w/the feel of it if you re-bleed.

      also adjust your pedal inside the car...that could go a long ass way
      93' Noble Green MX-ZE (sold )
      02' Graphite Grey WRX Stage 4, 286whp
      05' Pontiac Vibe daily driver, lowered/tinted/rims

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        #33
        I know someone that had a 6 puck ACT just like yours with the ACT PP, and they had grip problems just like your complaining about... He eventually just replaced it with something else...
        Sent the clutch back to ACT I think, or just threw it away.. I forgot.
        photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

        dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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          #34
          Originally posted by bruce95fmla
          I know someone that had a 6 puck ACT just like yours with the ACT PP, and they had grip problems just like your complaining about... He eventually just replaced it with something else...
          Sent the clutch back to ACT I think, or just threw it away.. I forgot.
          hmmm interresting.... but as i understand turboge was running the ss kit (and a number of other members on the board do to) without any problems. The ss and r6 are the same kits except for the disk. Maybe the disk is installed the wrong way?

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Kreator
            rofl. you telling me i didn't do my research? And you deduced that from which post of mine?

            break in is a problem of sprung clutches, clutches that are supposed to slip while engaging. Puck clutches are NOT supposed to slip, they are supposed to grip right off. They do NOT require break in. thats what act site said, and thats what 2 different technicians i spoke with at act said. They said something along these lines: "to break in a puck clutch, just give it a couple hard slips and you should be good". Which does make sense. Like i said before, some of the race engines have lifespan of a race or two. Which is much less then 500 miles which is the standard break in time. Noone is going to be using these clutches if they'll have to waste a race engine just to break these in.

            It's quite similar in my case. Although i don't have a race engine, the car barely sees real roads - mostly driven on the track with maybe 10-20 miles at a time.


            okay... granted, act's site said that.... but think for a second...


            okay... so think about what they're trying to say... a disc with springs will need to be broken in... but a disc without springs wont? what sense does that make? when you break in a clutch.. you're conditioning the friction material... breaking in has nothing to do with whether the disc is sprung or not...

            spec sells their stage 3 clutch (6 puck with high clamp plate) as a street/strip clutch..the disc is like identical in design as yers... if puck clutches werent designed to slip... why would they sell it as a street clutch...

            so think about this, if you're NOT supposed to break in a non-sprung disc, why do you HAVE to break in a sprung disc... its the same exact friction material... and granted, the non-sprung disc wont slip as easily as the sprung one.. but its going to have to slip at some point... i.e. starting off in 1st gear...

            so if its not properly broken in... you'll glaze the **** out of it... just as my buddy with the focus did...

            no hard feelings.. just my thoughts..
            Last edited by TheMightyEscort; 05-25-2005, 09:03 AM.
            Fazda (Foz-dâ) n. - The Culmination of Ford body and Mazda brains; see also: identity crisis

            CTA intake + E.S. Motor Mount Inserts + Ractive Front Strut Tower Bar + BF Goodrich G-force Sport 195/55's +
            Corksport's Escort GT Pre-FAB exhaust! + Walbro 255lph fuel pump + 16°BTDC = WEEEE!!!!

            1993 'Ford' Escort GT... Mazda Motor and Unibody - Ford skin

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              #36
              Originally posted by TheMightyEscort
              okay... granted, act's site said that.... but think for a second...


              okay... so think about what they're trying to say... a disc with springs will need to be broken in... but a disc without springs wont? what sense does that make? when you break in a clutch.. you're conditioning the friction material... breaking in has nothing to do with whether the disc is sprung or not...

              spec sells their stage 3 clutch (6 puck with high clamp plate) as a street/strip clutch..the disc is like identical in design as yers... if puck clutches werent designed to slip... why would they sell it as a street clutch...

              so think about this, if you're NOT supposed to break in a non-sprung disc, why do you HAVE to break in a sprung disc... its the same exact friction material... and granted, the non-sprung disc wont slip as easily as the sprung one.. but its going to have to slip at some point... i.e. starting off in 1st gear...

              so if its not properly broken in... you'll glaze the **** out of it... just as my buddy with the focus did...

              no hard feelings.. just my thoughts..
              no, they are not the same material. sprung clutches are organic. puck clutches are ceramic. whatever the differences are, i'm not sure. But act technicians probably do, and i don't think you would go as far as accuse them of telling me misinformed info?

              Again. Race clutch. For a race car. Race engines don't live long enough or get driven long enough to apply the whole 500 mile break in procedure.

              When i took the clutch assembly off hte car, there were no glazed surfaces on either the flywheel, pressure plate, nor the clutch. And that's with100 miles of slipping every time i accidently let the turbo spool. Not to mention launching the car from 2500-3500 rpm in first gear, because any lower rpm would chatter like crazy

              Comment


                #37
                When I got my new Mazda clutch, I did a 2nd gear scratch the next day. Haven't had any problems. Gotta love Mazda quality parts!

                1994 Protege BP-Turbo.....1994 Miata Supercharged.....2003 Protege5 stock DD.....1988 323 GT Turbo
                On the road soon: 2003 Protege5 V6 swap
                My vB Gallery - Full Information and Photos of My Mazdas

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                  #38
                  kreator, in my explination, was comparing sprung puck clutches to unsprung puck clutches... nowhere did i mention organic discs... lol.. the spec 3 is a 6puck.. hell it even looks just like yours... cept that spec highly suggests a break in period...


                  i dont wanna start a war, so i'll leave that arguement there...



                  the real issue is why your clutch bit the dust... any updates from act... and have you checked into who re-surafced your flywheel?
                  Fazda (Foz-dâ) n. - The Culmination of Ford body and Mazda brains; see also: identity crisis

                  CTA intake + E.S. Motor Mount Inserts + Ractive Front Strut Tower Bar + BF Goodrich G-force Sport 195/55's +
                  Corksport's Escort GT Pre-FAB exhaust! + Walbro 255lph fuel pump + 16°BTDC = WEEEE!!!!

                  1993 'Ford' Escort GT... Mazda Motor and Unibody - Ford skin

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by TheMightyEscort
                    kreator, in my explination, was comparing sprung puck clutches to unsprung puck clutches... nowhere did i mention organic discs... lol.. the spec 3 is a 6puck.. hell it even looks just like yours... cept that spec highly suggests a break in period...

                    i dont wanna start a war, so i'll leave that arguement there...

                    the real issue is why your clutch bit the dust... any updates from act... and have you checked into who re-surafced your flywheel?
                    hmm. thought all sprugn ones were organic... but the break in question was a concern when i didn't know what happened when i spun it. Now i know, i have a preload somewhere, and the clutch assembly is fine and hasn't been ruined. So that question is no longer a conern. i heard the "hard slip" break in procedure from a number of people on the boards, so its not like act is the only one telling me that. plus maybe there are differences between spec and act?

                    again the clutch never bit the dust. its still in good usable shape. I just need to figure out the preload problem. which has to either do with incorrectly assembled throwout bearing, or something about the mx-6 pressure plate not fitting the tranny with 6 puck clutch (which sounds like bs since it does with organic ones)

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                      #40
                      strange issue... oh, just for comparison, here's a pic of the spec stage 3 i had that i wanted to put into the focus before i decided to sell the car...


                      Fazda (Foz-dâ) n. - The Culmination of Ford body and Mazda brains; see also: identity crisis

                      CTA intake + E.S. Motor Mount Inserts + Ractive Front Strut Tower Bar + BF Goodrich G-force Sport 195/55's +
                      Corksport's Escort GT Pre-FAB exhaust! + Walbro 255lph fuel pump + 16°BTDC = WEEEE!!!!

                      1993 'Ford' Escort GT... Mazda Motor and Unibody - Ford skin

                      Comment

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