No lifter noise solution

[mike323]

Originally posted by thunderb0lt
I am with FESTIVAS RULE on this one.

Reground cams will reduce lifter noise PROVIDED they are milder than the stock cams.

The lifters tick when they are starved for oil. They starve for oil when they are clogged OR when the ramp rate is too high... ie... when using wild cams.

Lifters tick when they don't see much pumping action or when oil pressure has dropped drastically. That's why you should always check the oil level every 2-3 weeks.

The ramp rate has nothing to do on the aggressiveness of the cam lobe profile. An aggressive cam by definition is a cam with duration that starts making the idle lopy or to the point of not idling. Cams with 264+ degrees at 0.006"lift can be considered as aggressive for the BP engine.

[mike323]

Originally posted by TheMAN
gee, I wonder what this is...
http://web2.airmail.net/theman/prote...b/b002-94.html

All mazda engine(B6, BP, KL) with HLA have this ticking noise. Oil quantity and oil quality may have an impact but sooner or later the problem will re-introduce itself. Mazda tells you to check the clearance since if you have any clearance between your stock cam lobes and your lifter that means that your lifter has collapsed (doesn't do it's function).

You can also cure this problem by increase oil pressure. You can do that by adding a 2-3mm shim under the spring. I did this on several KL engines and it did help.

[Gro Harlem]

Originally posted by mike323
KL cams cost $395 + shipping to regrind since there's 4 camshafts. The price $250 is for the DOHC BP engine.

aww wtf...u said $250 just a few posts down: "If you question this than all you need to do is send me your cams + $250US, I'll regrind them then you can install them and you can see/hear for yourself."

[mike323]

Originally posted by FESTIVAS RULE
aww wtf...u said $250 just a few posts down: "If you question this than all you need to do is send me your cams + $250US, I'll regrind them then you can install them and you can see/hear for yourself."

Every camshaft cost at least $100US to regrind. The KL engine has 4 camshafts therefore I charge $395 + $35(shipping). The BP engine has 2 camshafts therefore I charge $225 +$25(shipping). BTW I don't regrind the cams, a shop near my place does them for me therefore they charge me prefered customer rate for each camshaft. I just analyse and produce a master cam lobe based on lifter size, spring harmonics and existing cam lobe specification and this is the master that is used to regrind the camshafts. BTW a cam regrind machine will cost at least $200,000 therefore I won't be buying one any time soon.

Shipping is more expensive with the KL since the four cams weigh about 24lbs whereas the BP cams will weigh about 10lbs.

As for the SOHC BP engine I haven't done any regrinds since I need more info. Does this engine have HLA as well? What's the HLA diameter? What's the lift on intake/exhaust cam lobes?

[Gro Harlem]

its not a BP its a B6...i'll get you the specs when I go home next...probably in two weeks.

[zenilder]

yeah. the B6 has HLAs. the diameter is close to about 1/4 or less than the DOHC ones. They're frickin' small. I can measure them tonight. I think I still have some left over from a head replacement I did over a year ago.

Damn. I threw away a good SOHC head a number of months ago. I even lapped in the valves myself! hah
Could have given you the cam if I still had it. Oh well. I think I'll save the cam out of my current SOHC when I swap in a DOHC .

GRO: I'll be getting some ARP bolts from flyinmiata soon, so I'll be able to give them to my mechanic. It's what he's been waiting on for some time now (I think around seven months or more). After he gets those, it shouldn't be too long till I get the engine back from him. Point being: I'll finally get to use the head I bought from you! :D
He's also going to regrind my stock cams to a good profile. I'm going to try and buy the dual valve springs from Mazdaspeed (need to find someone that is registered with them and pay them to buy them for me heh).

Fun fun fun.

[charles]

hurry up and get that working. I want a ride

[WTF]

Transmission oil has a lot of additives to protect the gears from chemical builups, humidity, mildew... I usually take the lifters out and hand pumped them one by one with transmission fluid. Obviously the fluid is in a container like a big coffee can or an empty protein shake container so after I am done I can reuse the fluid for a next time. Latex gloves are recommended unless your girlfriend enjoys the "sexy" smell of tranny fluid in your hands.

1. Pump each lifter one at a time the same you would bleed a brake line. Pump out, submerge in tranny fluid then let it suck all the oil. Pump, hold, submerge and let go...

2. Its amazing how much JUNK is inside the lifters.

3. Bad lifters will not have the "MEMORY" to go back to its original position. The less memory, the worst condition it is and that is going to be the one to be giving you that annoying sound. Because the valve inside the lifter collapse and is useless.

The more return or memory, the better the condition, keep this in mind the next time you go to a junkyard and scavenging for lifters.

Good Luck

I have a BP05 in my 323 and every 6 months I will pour about a quart of tranny fluid into the engine before been changed. Let it run to room temperature for about 5 to 10 minutes. DO NOT drive the car with tranny fluid, it will not harm the car, but is not recommended.

Change the oil and oil filter, put fresh one in. This is to do the same deal of the lifter cleaning but to the whole engine.

This is my car, I have done it several times and the car feels fresh.

I got this tip from a guy who had a Toyota Supra 1991 turbo, I thought he was crazy but his car always was smooth and never had any lifter problems.

Follow this at your own criteria.

[FE3-323]

what really is safe to run through your engine???

on a few old motors i've run mineral spirits.... and tranny fluid ccombo with the oil for about 3 minutes...

paint thinner/mineral spirits are the same thing.... will they destroy the rubber oil seals in your engine?

[Poison_Snake]

what does regrind means

[naprotejay]

what does regrind means

regrind means taking an already ground cam (in this case the stock cams) and grinding them to new specs.

as far as lifter noise and various solutions, i've NEVER had any noticeable problem with this. maybe i'm just used to it? :shrug: but seriously - i've read of it here and on the miataforum, and i simply haven't had any ticking that was loud enough to catch my attention... that's with a 224,000 mile motor. change your oil regularly and you'll be fine.

[naprotejay]

and bty i'm not bashing mike's 'regrind solution'.... i simply haven't had a problem that requires *any* solution. however i do hope to be a good candidate for any *power* to be had from his regrinds

[WTF]

For BPT323.

I have never tried using mineral spirits. But plenty of my friends use the trick of transmission fluid because of its good cleaning additives. Besides if it stays in your tranny for thousand of miles without been changed and goes thru all the abuse of temperature changes, hard launches, traffics jams and still the damn oil works great. I bet a few minutes in your engine will not kill anything or burn any seals. Transmission has plenty of gaskets, seals, synchros, bla bla and works great.

Like I said, I have never used mineral spirits and will never do. I, like many of my buddies have poured half a quart of tranny fluid for a few minutes until it reaches normal idling temperature and then change the oil. You will be amazed how the oil comes out, nasty. Don't expect burnin tires or smokin Type R's after doin this. It is all a good maintenance tip to be done at your own judgement.

[Kevin]

i've mentioned this before, they have a professional means of flushing.. where they use hot mineral oil and pump it through your engine block through the oil filter port and the drain plug in your oil pan. the mineral oil is then filtered and reflushed through your block.. for about 2 5 or 10 minute cycles. this rids out alot of built up deposits in your oil passages. it's definately safe to run though your oil system at a set psi, though i'd never suggest running the engine. as far as effectiveness, i'd like to know how any of these solutions help to visibly remove buildup in the oil pan, oil pump and valve train.. ie if anybody has before and after pictures.
kevin