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    #1

    drivetrain vibration

    I'm getting some bad vibration under acceleration and braking, it gets worse taking a right corner, and my driver side axle has a ripped boot. are these things related? I also had my passanger axle seperated entirely a month ago leaving me stranded, I thought axles were only broken if they clicked or something.

    also on a side note, I could not get my O2 sensor off so I took it to a shop and they coulden't get it off with an impact gun or a cheater bar. Would replacing the manifold with a aftermarket header be a good Idea now, or maybe just getting a junkyard one with an 02 sensor included. I replaced the stuck one at a shop a few months ago and its failed again, so any suggestions on a good aftermarket one?

    gracias
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by ChrisKory
    I'm getting some bad vibration under acceleration and braking, it gets worse taking a right corner, and my driver side axle has a ripped boot. are these things related? I also had my passanger axle seperated entirely a month ago leaving me stranded, I thought axles were only broken if they clicked or something.

    also on a side note, I could not get my O2 sensor off so I took it to a shop and they coulden't get it off with an impact gun or a cheater bar. Would replacing the manifold with a aftermarket header be a good Idea now, or maybe just getting a junkyard one with an 02 sensor included. I replaced the stuck one at a shop a few months ago and its failed again, so any suggestions on a good aftermarket one?

    gracias
    There's a good chance that the vibration you are experiencing is being caused by you axel. It sounds like they both need to be replaced anyways.

    Sounds like a good time for a header.

    Comment

      #3
      hoes the o2 with a good penitrating lub like PB blaster and let it sit and hit it again. If you try to hard to get it off it will mess up the treads and you will be SOL.

      Comment

        #4
        as Jho said, it's time to replace your axels anyway, might as well try that first. Next thing I'd look at is the tires & bearings.

        when I first got my 92, it had bad bearings in it -- sounded like riding a skateboard from the inside!
        Current Cars
        2003 Nissan 350z. Touring Edition, Pike's Peak White and dark tint. Some audio work. Twin turbo swap and more audio work over the winter. Wheels and springs this winter.

        Past Mazdas
        1994 Mazda Protege DX. DOHC swap in progress. Sold due to a move
        1992 Mazda Protege DX. BPT (GT-X) swap w. Haltech & MSD. Sold before it saw the road
        1996 Ford Probe GT. Flawless. 5-speed. Kept stock. Sold for an LS1

        Comment

          #5
          yea the mechanic wouldent try anymore because he didnt want to mess up the manifold, I sprayed it with PB blaster when I was trying to take it out a couple times, and I took it to him after. I'm afraid that taking the exaust manifold off will be impossible, the nuts holding the heat sheild on are all rusty and rounded...

          Comment

            #6
            a vibration is caused by an unbalanced rotating mass.

            replace you axles asap. if they are the issue leaving this will only cause further damage. It could be as bad as a ****ed bearing, or as simple as an unbalanced wheel.

            I took care of my O2 by heating the bung with a propane torch and cooling with water, when penetrating oil did not work for me.
            When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?

            Originally posted by goldstar
            Yes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.

            A Protege driver named Brock
            Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
            So his engine he goosed
            With much too much boost,
            And drove a rod through his block.

            Comment

              #7
              I Bet You Got A Damaged Wheel Bearing... If It Feels Worst At The Curves , Its A Wheel Bearing.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by TERCO
                I Bet You Got A Damaged Wheel Bearing... If It Feels Worst At The Curves , Its A Wheel Bearing.
                Jack up car and wiggle side to side on the wheel and see if its loose in any direction when grabbing at opposite ends to test this theory!
                **SOLD** 93 EGT with more suspension mods then your average riced out civic's # of decals + useless "bling/style/culture" mods! **SOLD**
                95 EGT New beater! And gawd damnit shes NOT pink!

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by ChrisKory
                  yea the mechanic wouldent try anymore because he didnt want to mess up the manifold, I sprayed it with PB blaster when I was trying to take it out a couple times, and I took it to him after. I'm afraid that taking the exaust manifold off will be impossible, the nuts holding the heat sheild on are all rusty and rounded...
                  How/why did your o2 sensor fail?

                  Like I said before, if you ruin the manifold, just replace it with a header. When I put a header on my car, I was concerned that the bolts holding my manifold to the head were going to give me a problem, but as soon as I got the heat shield off, I saw that the bolts weren't even that bad, and they came right out. Getting the heat shield off might suck tho. I couldn't get my o2 sensor out of my manifold either, so I just put a new one in with my header.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I always order new bolts when changing anything that torques to the head. You don't want to risk ruining your head by crossthreading a dirty bolt. Usually the exhaust bolts are only 30 cents to a buck a peice at the dealership -- well worth the money
                    Current Cars
                    2003 Nissan 350z. Touring Edition, Pike's Peak White and dark tint. Some audio work. Twin turbo swap and more audio work over the winter. Wheels and springs this winter.

                    Past Mazdas
                    1994 Mazda Protege DX. DOHC swap in progress. Sold due to a move
                    1992 Mazda Protege DX. BPT (GT-X) swap w. Haltech & MSD. Sold before it saw the road
                    1996 Ford Probe GT. Flawless. 5-speed. Kept stock. Sold for an LS1

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by FineWine
                      I always order new bolts when changing anything that torques to the head. You don't want to risk ruining your head by crossthreading a dirty bolt. Usually the exhaust bolts are only 30 cents to a buck a peice at the dealership -- well worth the money
                      Actually its nuts which btw don't matter on the manifold if they are good! =) Head bolts yes as it goes DIRECTLY into the head unlike a nut on the outside! Plus i don't feel like going in and wasting 30 minutes for them to understand wtf i want and then wait 1+ weeks for bolts that are fine for a SIMPLE project that doesn't need complications from a freakin stealership!
                      **SOLD** 93 EGT with more suspension mods then your average riced out civic's # of decals + useless "bling/style/culture" mods! **SOLD**
                      95 EGT New beater! And gawd damnit shes NOT pink!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by FineWine
                        I always order new bolts when changing anything that torques to the head. You don't want to risk ruining your head by crossthreading a dirty bolt. Usually the exhaust bolts are only 30 cents to a buck a peice at the dealership -- well worth the money
                        Yea, replacing head bolts is a no brainer. But besides those, just wire wheeling bolts or nuts and putting a little grease or anitseize on the threads is all you have to do.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Jho
                          just wire wheeling bolts or nuts and putting a little grease or anitseize on the threads is all you have to do.
                          yeah, it's just been a caution of mine to just spend 2 bucks on new bolts (nuts) Preference I guess -- and if I ever lose or break one, I can just reach into a bin and take a new one out I didn't mean that you HAVE to
                          Current Cars
                          2003 Nissan 350z. Touring Edition, Pike's Peak White and dark tint. Some audio work. Twin turbo swap and more audio work over the winter. Wheels and springs this winter.

                          Past Mazdas
                          1994 Mazda Protege DX. DOHC swap in progress. Sold due to a move
                          1992 Mazda Protege DX. BPT (GT-X) swap w. Haltech & MSD. Sold before it saw the road
                          1996 Ford Probe GT. Flawless. 5-speed. Kept stock. Sold for an LS1

                          Comment

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