Bogging issue

[chrmar]

Now I have the car roadworthy and today was to be its maiden voyage. I left my house to go to school and the car died 3km down the road. Couldn't get it started again, so I walked back to my house. Drove back down and the car started right up. I drove it back and noticed that the battery terminals were still loose, even though I had them tightened as much as I could (damn factory terminals). I swapped over the aftermarket terminals from my EGT and started to drive "the loop" (a network of roads wherein my house is located, a total of 16km). During the drive the car stalled twice and I had to let it sit a few minutes before it would start again. When it would start I heard a squeal from the belts for a couple seconds then it would go away. I checked the belts when I got home again and noticed the tell-tale black powder everywhere suggesting that the alternator is on its way out, again. *sigh*

Also, during the drive, the car bogs out frequently. With the pedal to the floor the car doesn't seem to accept any fuel and just starts slowing down. Eventually it'll pick up the throttle and away it goes. I'm not sure what is happening here, other than perhaps the fuel filter is clogged from the old rusty tank and needs to be replaced.

When I first bought the car it bogged a wee bit until I put fresh gas in it then it seemed to be okay. I drove it to my girlfriend's place, which was a 36km drive and then a couple days later I drove it to my house, which was another 35km. Both trips I didn't have any troubles with charging or bogging.

After getting to my place the alternator eventually seized and I replaced it with the one from my EGT. I've also replaced the plugs and the tank. Is my problem the fuel filter and potentially the alternator as well?

I replaced the fuel filter with the one from the parts GT, cleaned the ground wire for the fuel pump, installed a new ground wire from the engine to the chassis, and put in a spare ignition coil. I'm still having the bogging issue.

When driving the car will slow down, the revs will drop even though I have the pedal down. It will sometimes pick up and take off again and sometimes it'll stall. Tomorrow I plan on picking up a new fuel filter just to be sure.

Also, I'm running a U code VAF from the ProGT, could this be causing an issue with the B8?

[bcowie]

my car would die and then id have to wait for it before driving again when my fuel pump was dying.

[chrmar]

Well, if it is indeed the fuel pump I have to think of a creative way to get the pump out with all the stripped screws...

[chrmar]

Okay, so, I've changed the fuel pump with the one in the original tank. I've put in a new fuel filter, but that may not be working properly as it is actually for a 1.5L Daewoo Lanos (but its the same size and has the same fittings as the proper filter, plus its 1/2 the price). I also put the S-code VAF back on in lieu of the U-code I had on there.

Instead of bogging and stalling all the time, now it seems to be in some kind of limp mode or something as it'll run fine below a certain throttle level. When I give it more throttle it starts to sputter, almost like its starved for fuel. I'm going to put a proper filter back on tomorrow and see if that helps.

[chrmar]

So I've replaced the fuel filter with a factory unit and I put the S-code VAF back in. The bogging issue doesn't seem to be the problem anymore as it is the car starting to sputter under any increased throttle. The car will barely move in first now and I'm getting really frustrated trying to figure out what the problem is! I've even replaced the TPS, same problem. I noticed something amiss at the distributor:



According to the FSM the cut wire is the Ne-signal...I have no idea what that means! Does anyone know...? I'm getting to the end of my string here, I'm almost ready to say fk it and do the BP swap early...

[chrmar]

So it turns out that random wire from the distributor is actually just a splice-in; the wire does go all the way back into the harness like its supposed to.

Doing some more playing around with it today and I noticed that I can move the car around the yard fine upon first startup but after its been running for a few seconds that's when the bogging issue starts. Also, if I go slow on the throttle I can rev the engine up to 4000 rpm but if I try to go quick it will sputter and stall. Now, I can hear a sucking sound around the airbox when applying throttle, but upon examining everything there's no holes in the airbox or the intake hose however it seems like the connection between the opening in the bottom of the airbox and the tube that goes to the fender isn't closed due to the shape of the airbox. Is this normal for BG chassis cars? I know in my GD MX-6 the connection is tight and you can't hear any air flowing.

[concealer404]

So it turns out that random wire from the distributor is actually just a splice-in; the wire does go all the way back into the harness like its supposed to.

Doing some more playing around with it today and I noticed that I can move the car around the yard fine upon first startup but after its been running for a few seconds that's when the bogging issue starts. Also, if I go slow on the throttle I can rev the engine up to 4000 rpm but if I try to go quick it will sputter and stall. Now, I can hear a sucking sound around the airbox when applying throttle, but upon examining everything there's no holes in the airbox or the intake hose however it seems like the connection between the opening in the bottom of the airbox and the tube that goes to the fender isn't closed due to the shape of the airbox. Is this normal for BG chassis cars? I know in my GD MX-6 the connection is tight and you can't hear any air flowing.

That connection is past the VAF, isn't it?

If so, that's your problem.

[chrmar]

Its before the VAF...

[miK3Pro]

check your spark plug wires, ive had something like this happen before.....

[teqnyck]

This happened to me too with my old red LX, it was a split in the intake hose. Are you sure you checked it over completely? Mine split on the underside, and the only reason I found it was because it was in my way when I was messing with the distributor.

It really really sounds like you're getting more air than the car is seeing.

[chrmar]

How do I check the wires?

I'll take the intake hose off and give it a good once-over, make sure its not leaking somewhere.