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    Need help fast CLUTCH ISSUE

    ok BP-T'd 95 EGT 25k or so since the swap.

    Spec stage 3 6 puck clutch and pressure plate

    138k on the stock tranny

    happend with very little warning if any.. i recall it being a little stiff last night but it was fine this morning untill i got off the expressway..

    symptoms: CLutch pedal is extremely stiff ive been driving this clutch for 2 years and its never been this hard not even when it was brand new

    Clutch does not fully engage everytime

    when pulling away in first and easing off the clutch i feel it grab but when i give it gas it slips untill i let off then it grabs and i can go.

    same thing happens in every gear but seams to happen less when i quick shift it. if i granny shift and try and drive the car like a daily im not getting full engagement

    It feels like i have no hydraulic assistance yet i have a full resevoir its hard to push down and it comes up all the way normally but doesnt engage

    the car is borderline undrivable at the moment im tearing into it over the next couple days

    my guesses as of now with the input from a few ppl are

    Bent clutch fork
    throw out bearing
    pressure plate- broken/bent teeth
    or something with the master/slave cyl not working properly

    any guesses? any one want to point me in a direction to start with b4 i start selling sperm to pay for a new clutch?

    #2
    Check your slave cylinder. See if you can have someone push on the clutch while you look at the slave move under the hood. Might be seized because that would explain the slipping until fully engaged or it wont let it fully engage.
    Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
    "Who Dey"

    Comment


      #3
      If you have fluid under the dash by the clutch pedal then it is more than likely your clutch slave cylinder. If it hasnt been changed ever, now would be a great time! It will def show an improvement.

      Comment


        #4
        Roy, you're are on the right track but refering to the wrong part... you have a clutch master and slave cylinder... what the pedal pushes is the master, which I would inspect for sure, the slave is mounted to the transmission and can also cause weird engagement issues (although *usually* it would cause disengagement issues), as the non applied position is engaged (duh, i know). I dont know the exact design of the clutch master cylinder, but you may have a plugged relief valve or passage dependant on design, who knows.

        also consider a leak will *usually* cause an unintended engagement aka sitting at a light in gear clutch applied and all the sudden it will start to grab, or sittin out of gear clutch applied and you cannot get it into gear without pumping the clutch pedal.

        also consider, fluid contamination can cause weird engagement issues, if you have a rear main leaking onto the friction material

        all things to consider... good luck!
        There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

        Comment


          #5
          also consider (sorry to keep that going), you dont have a clutch pedal booster like you do your brakes, it doesnt get any vacuum assisitance, it simply uses pascals law (hydraulic fundamentals) diameter and travel of pistons to transfer movement from the clutch master to the clutch slave. a hard pedal may indicate something binding (in your pedal assembly. or in your clutch assembly). you could put your foot on the clutch, have someone pop the bleeder open on the slave and slowly apply the clutch... make sure you close the bleeder before you lift the pedal and that will tell you if your binding is in the clutch pedal assembly, or clutch master cylinder (as it wont apply the slave). If its easy pull the slave off and make sure the plunger moves freely... from there call timmy up and hitch a ride to the sperm bank
          There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.

          Comment


            #6
            I thought I replied to this but don't see it, so trying again... Yes check to make sure the slave is moving the clutch arm. If it is, your fancy highpressure clutch may well have fubared the pilot bearing, pretty much freezing the disc in place. In any case, park it till you fix it cuz forcing the clutch pedal is only gonna make stuff break.
            '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
            '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
            http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

            Comment


              #7
              def parked it as soon as i could.. decided to start by bleeding it a little bit and thats when i noticed the slave cyl itself was moving everytime the pedal was pushed in.. long story short the top slave bolt was MIA.

              i seem to have a nuts and bolts gremlin cuz every 3 or 4 months i have one go missing. time to start using more loc tite i guess.

              anyway took the oppurtunity to remove the front trans mount to make fixing the slave earlier and remembered i bought some poly mounts a while back and swapped out the one atleast so not a total loss. everythings back together and running smooth aside from the norm tune issues thanks for the input and help as usual

              Comment


                #8
                Ya gotta like fixes like that!
                '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                Comment


                  #9
                  love the fact that it was cheap and fairly easy but it still makes me worry.. which bolt is next?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If it makes you worry go back and put lock nuts on all your small bolts and take a torque wrench to your bolts on the engine and tranny.
                    Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                    "Who Dey"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      yea ide rather just do those things as i replace the bolts that fall off.. i know the main bolts are good its just the not as important ones.. like the ones holding the ball joints in.. pass side motor mount, and now i can add the slave cyl to the list haha

                      Comment


                        #12
                        this makes me think i really need to stop drinking when working on my car.. or atleast not well putting it back together

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by EGTeric95 View Post
                          def parked it as soon as i could.. decided to start by bleeding it a little bit and thats when i noticed the slave cyl itself was moving everytime the pedal was pushed in.. long story short the top slave bolt was MIA.

                          i seem to have a nuts and bolts gremlin cuz every 3 or 4 months i have one go missing. time to start using more loc tite i guess.

                          anyway took the oppurtunity to remove the front trans mount to make fixing the slave earlier and remembered i bought some poly mounts a while back and swapped out the one atleast so not a total loss. everythings back together and running smooth aside from the norm tune issues thanks for the input and help as usual
                          So this is why you needed that info huh, sorry about that. If it makes you feel better I lost a ball joint bolt last Tuesday. I know how loosing bolts is lol. When you dudesl coming to check out the blue beast! All I got to fix on the protege is a vacuum leak possibly.
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