BP problems in festiva

[hamburglar]

Hey guys,
I own a festiva with a EGT BP engine swapped into it. I have had some problems with sputtering and hesitation when i punch the gas pedal. If I ease onto the gas the car will not sputter and pull to red line. However, if I smash the gas pedal the car will sputter. The car will run great when i first start it up and then all at once the car will kick the idle up (~1300 rpm) and it will sputter. The car has also flooded and I believe it is running rich because you can smell the gas in the exhaust (and it also floods). I tried to pull codes from the car, but nothing is coming up. I am not good with fuel systems and I want to try to narrow down the problem before I go replacing fuel system components with expensive parts.

My car has (copy and pasted):The stock 63 HP, 1.3 liter engine has been removed and replaced with a 150 HP, built, Escort GT engine. That's a 1.8 liter engine, with about 130 HP stock... Take that and add Wiseco 10.5 to 1 pistons, bored 40 over, headwork, crank turning and balancing, lightening flywheel and machined for a Suzuki Swift stage 4 clutch, Toda adjustable cam gears, Escort "exhintake" cam swap, Pacesetter headers, 2.25" full exhaust, Walbro 255 performance fuel pump, UR crank pulley and more... Then add a bunch of weight reduction, lowered on FMS springs, Billstein front and KYB Super rear struts, Aspire "big brake" upgrade, rolling on 15" wheels wrapped in 195/45 Toyo Proxies...

Any ideas? I just bought the car and the previous owner told me a fuel pressure regulator, but I do not know. The car runs the same with or without the vacuum hooked to the regulator and no gas in the vacuum lines.....

Sorry if this is the wrong forum to post in, this is my first time on this site.
Thanks!

[nerd racing]

I would ditch that crank pulley and put something that actually dampens on there.

[bomdoutscort]

I would ditch that crank pulley and put something that actually dampens on there.

Thats actually if your going to boost. IF not then its normally not a problem.

[Ace]

boost or not, it needs to be dampened.

[miK3Pro]

maybe the fuel pump is about to die... even if that walbro is new they sometimes are defective and mess up right away....

[jrally]

It could be a hundred different things. Is the AFM horizontal, they work best that way? Which AFM is it, the RX-7 one can be too much for some engines? Cap/rotor new? Fuel lines have no kinks in them, delivery and return? Is the ECU for a manual or an automatic tranny? I raced one of the early BP powered Festivas, but mine was run on a MegaSquirt, to keep trouble shooting simpler.

-Jon R.

[hamburglar]

The AFM is from an escort and I made sure that it was horizontal and the engine still runs poorly. The TPS sensor has the casing ripped off of it and is dirty. I am waiting on a call for a new one. I'm sure it is some sort of sensor due to the fact that the engine will run fine and 2 seconds later will act up and sometimes go back to running fine. Cap and rotor are new just before i purchased the car...
ECU is the BP09 and the car is a stick
I'm hoping its the TPS sensor and will be easy
I'll keep you guys updated once i pop the TPS in

[mxrx37]

This usaully is a shot in the dark but poor grounding could be the culprit..

[bomdoutscort]

I'm going to say tps.

[hamburglar]

so i changed the TPS
It runs alittle better, I think.
But once u start the car cold the check engine light will turn on and the car runs GREAT. its a rocket lol.
but after 3-5 minutes the check engine light will turn off, the idle will go up to ~1300 RPM and it will sputter if you punch the gas....
I really have no idea what it is. I know it must be something simple, but anyone have ideas?
I'm positive it is not a bad ground.

[hamburglar]

bump

[Mazda_Powered]

unplug the tps sensor and start the car, car will run fine with it unplugged, might be a difference to show a problem.

have you checked your fuel pressure? it could be the regulator, vacumm has nothing to do with a shot diaphram lol.

Also does the car have all its sensors plugged in? Make sure the coolant temp sensor is plugged and the car has plenty of ground wires, i replaced and added a few on my old protege gt and the difference was visible

[nerd racing]

Thats actually if your going to boost. IF not then its normally not a problem.

I design crankshaft torsional vibration dampers for a living, its always a problem, its a matter of how long you want things to last. I guarantee that it is already causing crank bearing wear and transmitting vibrations through the transmission.

[blackshine007]

TPS out of adjustment? Poor/weak ground is also what I'm thinking. What codes are coming up when the CEL comes on?

[hamburglar]

unplug the tps sensor and start the car, car will run fine with it unplugged, might be a difference to show a problem.

have you checked your fuel pressure? it could be the regulator, vacumm has nothing to do with a shot diaphram lol.

Also does the car have all its sensors plugged in? Make sure the coolant temp sensor is plugged and the car has plenty of ground wires, i replaced and added a few on my old protege gt and the difference was visible

I replaces the coolant temp sensor and the car runs GREAT!
thanks so much man

I design crankshaft torsional vibration dampers for a living, its always a problem, its a matter of how long you want things to last. I guarantee that it is already causing crank bearing wear and transmitting vibrations through the transmission.

I don't know alot about dampers and what not.
How bad is it really to run the car without one?