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**KaleoXtreme** · 08-26-2013, 10:11 PM

Wow, that's a lot of coin. But I doubt the dealership even has/can get the parts anymore. What all do you need to get it working?

**Kitty** · 09-03-2013, 09:17 PM

You're be surprised the amount of stuff you can still order for older cars from the dealership as long as you bring the P/N.

As for what needs to be replaced my compressor to condenser line was cracked, repaired poorly a while ago and cracked again.

I'm debating pulling the dash **** and replacing it as well, but waiting to see the results I get from replacing the line, vac'ing it down and refilling it.

Here's an o-ring diagram.

Knowing is half the battle, and lazers.

**Kitty** · 09-30-2013, 10:35 PM

I actually had cooler than ambient air coming through the vents today. I only did a partial fill to see that everything was working and was surprised by the results. I loaded the system with u/v dye and unless the parts in car in leaky everything should be air tight. Vacuuming down the system when the dryer comes in, hopefully that shows my system is sealed.

In operation, high side is a low as it should be for the ~6oz of r134 in it.

I still don't grasp some of the concepts of a/c, I understand it's supposed to equalize but it's not equal. Unless the gauges are way off from each other.

**93 Pro** · 09-30-2013, 11:14 PM

When you say "it's supposed to equalize" I assume you mean the hi and low side pressures after the system has been static for awhile? How long had the system sat when you took that last picture?

**Kitty** · 09-30-2013, 11:19 PM

That was about 10 mins after shutting the car off.

**D323** · 10-01-2013, 09:44 PM

It should drop to 10-15 psi of each other when the system is off. If it takes too long to drop there could be a restriction in the system somewhere. I am impressed it got to 150psi on the high side from only 6oz of R134a (system capacity must be small). PM me if you need something AC wise you cannot find/dealership wants way too much.

**Kitty** · 06-07-2015, 05:18 PM

I ending up replacing all the a/c **** excluding the evaporator and lines.

Here are some pics.

Compressor confirmed for kill.

I don't have enough flare wrenches. Also I hate how fragile the condenser lines are.

Like really hate. I didn't notice this until I had already refit most everything.

I was especially angry because of all the combing done to it. brush brush brush

All those lines though.

I was not very fond of my aftermarket condenser.

It's 1.5mm thinner than stock.

And the passages are visibly smaller . ID differences is not determinable by me and my equipment. This however may be a benefit in a r134a system. Still it's more a cost cutting measure more than anything.

This asshole bracket was in the way of a line, I didn't realize it would be a problem until routing the lines.

Goddammit China. The line is supposed to be supported by that bracket.

This is pretty much whatever condenser you'll get from an auto parts store, so be prepared for a bit of a headache. Still I'd rather have issues and save the $250+ for a factory unit.
$250 is a lot of beer.

****ing nature.

I imagine if you wanted colder air you could insulate this less and it would be more easily adjustable than the actual adjustment built into the expansion valve.

I insulated it more though because I'm dumb.

Cleaning out the evaporator is a bitch, also keep the old expansion valve installed until you clean it out, because it's less holes you have to deal with.

Yum! The metal flakes and desiccant aren't really visible in this pic.

That's looking better.

I went to crazy town on the evaporator box. The factory layer of foam is very thin, but wouldn't allow anything thicker than the insulating tape I used with out shaving something down. Which would defeat the purpose.

Look at those nice smooth bends. I swear I don't have Parkinson's.

I wonder how the long the black paint will last?
Also I hate oiling compressors.

Managed 31 Vac on final install and hour vac down. I worry about the accuracy of the gauges now.

This is the cheapest can of non-leak sealer r134a you can buy in my area. You need 2 cans.

This is after about 9-10oz. Which is a bit under half system capacity according to the retrofit sticker I have.

This is about what the old compressor was doing before it died.

This is my slight overfill reading with a bit of air added in on account of me not purging the fill line on fitting the new can.

That's not very impressive.

I was loosing a healthy amount of air coming from the blower heading into the evaporator box, The foam on the factory connection bracket is not that great, and age had worsened it. I don't want to say how long this took to do but it was worth it. It won't be if I ever have to pull either part though.

That gained me about 5 degrees at idle. And I was sitting at 50º. The goal of this project was a bit lower temps so I purged a small bit of freon and managed a very impressive 45-46º at idle.

Here is a video, feel free to be jealous.

For reference it was 90º today and ~85º in the shade.

PrePost edit

You have included a total of 31 images in your message. The maximum number that you may include is 25.

This is rubbish and I hate it.

**Kitty** · 07-04-2015, 06:13 PM

I'm quite befuddled at present. My car originally came as an r12 filled system.I know this because the old seals I pulled were the black r12 ones not the purple green r134a ones and the r134 fittings are clearly glued/soldered onto the r12 fittings.
The r12 system spec is this.(from the 92 fsm)

My bonnet retrofit sticker says the system capacity is 18oz. This doesn't fit the general consensus of 2lb r12=1.8lbs r134a(~90% old capacity) I keep seeing on the Internets. Using the median of 27oz of r12 would be 24oz of r134a using that metric. Which would be great as they're 12oz cans(but seeing as I have to purge lines for filling and it would still be a bit short)

However this site http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refri...ies/mnop#mazda

Which seems fairly accurate on breakdowns, list a flat 28oz for 93-94s. Any 94's assembled in 94 legally should of been sold with r134a. So I imagine the 1994 FSM would have r12/r134a specs.

Does anyone have a 94 fsm that would be so kind as to check? Please do not link me to the 1992 pdf, I have that. I also have a 1990 paper manual.

I'm currently in pressure spec with 18-19oz, but it's on the lower end and everything in system is either brand new or freshly flushed so I could see hitting spec with an under-filled system.

I suppose the easiest course of action would be to just use 27oz and call it a day. I doubt Bubba's AC and radiator shop put a great deal of effort into the conversion math considering they didn't replace any of the seals when converting the system. Still I'd like something from Mazda that says USE X AMOUNT OF R134A in the first gen. Hell I should look up the Capri spec. I know that Came with r134a.

I just want 37º vent temps.

**Kitty** · 03-15-2016, 03:45 PM

I still don't have 37º vent temps.

But damn am I close, it was ~80º today so at least 40º below ambient.

I think I have 24oz flat in there now, after testing for pressure twice due to Compressor trouble shooting.(The clutch coil wasn't attached well in china.{Thanks China})

If I get any spare r134a from doing other peoples systems I'll probably pop some in just to see if I can reach my goal.
Still I think I'm at systems limitation at this point, or at least at my ability to wrangle the system.

**Kitty** · 06-24-2023, 05:38 PM

I did manage to get 37º eventually.

My current fill is 2 12 oz cans and a kiss from a third.
With the new "self sealing" cans of freon I think I loose about 1/2 an OZ on every can, plus you can never fully empty a can.
So likely 25-26oz.

I did pick up a 94 FSM after my last adjustment and it even has a nice r12 r134a comparison chart.

Only thing to really note is Highside max pressure is listed as
3.5MPAa 500psi for r134a verse the
2.9MPa(430 psi) for r12.

So that should really be your guide.

Also list 6oz of PAG as the oil fill, but doesn't list a PAG viscosity for humans, but ATMOS GU10.

Which is closest to PAG46 from what I can tell. Which is what I've mostly been using.

Attached Files

Announcement

A/C diagrams for reference and anger.

A/C diagrams for reference and anger.

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