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debating on weather to remove a/c

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    debating on weather to remove a/c

    how hard would it be to remove the a/c from my 323? it looks somewhat straight forward...i want to remove it to make more room in the engine bay. and how do i get rid of the stuff that actually makes the a/c cold(i have no clue what the gas is called :] ) & sorry if this is in the wrong section..

    #2
    Originally posted by little white323 View Post
    how hard would it be to remove the a/c from my 323? it looks somewhat straight forward...i want to remove it to make more room in the engine bay. and how do i get rid of the stuff that actually makes the a/c cold(i have no clue what the gas is called :] ) & sorry if this is in the wrong section..
    go to an AC repair shop and have them drain it, it is very dangerous to drain it yourself, and bad for the enviroment. besides that its pretty straight foward
    "Discontent is the first necessity of progress."
    -Thomas A. Edison

    "There is a fine line between ballin' on a budget, and dreamin' on an empty wallet."


    *Junked* 92 mx3, BP swap- milage whore, beaten up and down the east coast
    *Junked* KLZE powered 323 on Megasquirt 1
    172.60HP & 156.93 TQ with only headers and short ram intake. back under the knife for a BPT swap.
    New Daily stock 1.6L 1999 Mazda Protege LX

    Comment


      #3
      Yeah, definitely pay a shop to have it evacuated.

      Your car is old enough that it has R12 refrigerant (Freon). You'll want to be sure the technicians are capable of handling that. They use a vacuum system to draw out the refrigerant and any contaminated moisture, they collect it and send it to a recycling facility. After they finish the service and give the car back to you, you're safe to open the system with common tools. Especially being in CA, they take CFC emissions extremely seriously. Most any shop should be able to help you with this.

      Removal of the A/C system is easy enough. Are you going to go all-out and remove the evaporator from under the dash, or just cap off the plumbing at the firewall? You should keep all of the A/C parts safely in a box if you leave the evaporator under the dash. That way, when you sell it you can replace the little O-rings, reassemble the pieces, and sell a car with working A/C. That or supply the new owner with the complete setup ready to install for himself
      .

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        #4
        okay thats good to know...i was gunna just gunna use a screwdriver and let it come out..

        Comment


          #5
          Does your A/C work? I bet some people here would love to buy it from you, I think its a waste to get rid of a working A/C unless your doing a 100% drag/rally/autoX w/e car. Just my .02.

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            #6
            yes it works...i want to get a bp soon, and i was going to run that w/o a/c, so why not get rid of it now :]

            Comment


              #7
              Definety box up all the parts and keep or sell them to a member that would like to have it. I kick myself in the head every time because I took all mine out in good working order. It wasn't cold but found out that it just needed a charge. I didn't want it but I could have sold it. It was converted to r134 too.
              1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
              1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
              2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
              2010 VW routon

              Originally posted by jay
              .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

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                #8
                Yea like Chris said, just save your parts, you can always hook em up back!

                JACK.
                -Jack

                ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                  #9
                  yeah il box it all up and stash it in storage :]

                  this has nothing to do w/ my a/c but i have another question.

                  my 323 has been sitting for a few years, and i just got a new battery for it today, and to my suprise, it didnt start. so i checked the fuses in the engine bay, and the 'main' one is blown....is this the problem? or could it be the starter? im hoping its just the fuse because that would be a easy fix :]

                  Comment


                    #10
                    try the fuse first, does it turn over at least?

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                      #11
                      nope, not at all :[

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                        #12
                        ya, change the fuse and maybe check your harness because some small vermin have had their way with your wires

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                          #13
                          okay thanks :]

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                            #14
                            it might just need a recharge because thats exactly why mine didnt engage. from what i was told the clutch wont engage if its low on freon.
                            1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                            1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                            2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                            2010 VW routon

                            Originally posted by jay
                            .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The main fuse is bolted in too. 2 10mm bolts. You'll have to unbolt the fuse box off the firewall to get the back bolt. Also double check that the battery terminals are on the right posts. That will blow your main fuse instantly.

                              JACK.
                              -Jack

                              ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                              91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                              01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                              91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

                              Comment

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