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motor mounts 1.8l

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    #16
    ok i havnt done this before so the window sealer can be put into the old mount and centre the spud up and fill it right up ? flush to the outside or what? can somebody post up a picture ? how hard is it? im pretty sure my rear mount is fu**** lol so some advice would be appreciated

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      #17
      I did three of the four mounts (save for the passenger side transmission mount). I filled them with the window weld.

      Holy crap vibration. I can now tune my idle to the rattle of interior trim rather than RPM.


      You're going to want to buy a LOT of lockwashers and locktite if you're doing three mounts in window weld. Half the bolts holding misc. stuff in my engine back backed off by like a 1/4" from vibration.
      I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.

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        #18
        you're only supposed to do the front and rear ones.
        sigpic

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          #19
          Originally posted by me19875 View Post
          you're only supposed to do the front and rear ones.

          To be absolutely fair, I don't think Mazda intended us to do ANY of them.
          I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.

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            #20
            all 3 tranny mounts filled actually reduces vibration over just the front/rear mounts being filled..... Just FYI
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            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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              #21
              i'll be doing this soon

              JACK.
              -Jack

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              91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

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              91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                #22
                Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
                all 3 tranny mounts filled actually reduces vibration over just the front/rear mounts being filled..... Just FYI
                really? that doesn't make much sense to me. i've heard if you do only one of the front or back mounts it makes vibrations worse, but if you do both the front and back, it keeps the engine from thrashing around and lets the 2 remaining absorb the vibrations. so using that logic if you took away one thats absorbing the vibrations wouldn't it make it worse?
                sigpic

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                  #23
                  there are various methods for filling. the method i use has been prooven numerous times to be less harsh with all 3 filled.... leaving the beltside mount untouched
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                    #24
                    I used polyurethane roof flashing from lowes (the black poly, not the tan) and I let it sit up for 7 days in my garage. I only did this to the trans side mount on my 6 and after a week of breaking in, there's no vibration. I had the RR-racing insert on the front while nothing but a stock mount was on the rear. I bought a rear insert and installed it. I'm getting vibration, but over all, it was a good move it still needs more time to break in. I think the window sealer is too hard. The roof flashing is softer but it still holds really well.

                    14.500@95.68 mph naturally aspirated
                    '94 Protege LX 5 speed "grooved" 34mpg average

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                      #25
                      When changing mount just make sure to always have the engine supported by a jack from underneath the car. You can use the jack to lower and raise the engine as needed. I would recoment that you use a little hydrolic one. Use a block of wood in between the engine and the jack.

                      Make sure to check the manuel to see which bolts need tread lock.

                      I changed 3 engine mounts last weeken on my other car which is a 96 nissan sentra and it was not difficult at all.
                      Last edited by ivan15; 05-30-2008, 10:21 AM.

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