ok i havnt done this before so the window sealer can be put into the old mount and centre the spud up and fill it right up ? flush to the outside or what? can somebody post up a picture ? how hard is it? im pretty sure my rear mount is fu**** lol so some advice would be appreciated
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I did three of the four mounts (save for the passenger side transmission mount). I filled them with the window weld.
Holy crap vibration. I can now tune my idle to the rattle of interior trim rather than RPM.
You're going to want to buy a LOT of lockwashers and locktite if you're doing three mounts in window weld. Half the bolts holding misc. stuff in my engine back backed off by like a 1/4" from vibration.I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.
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Originally posted by me19875 View Postyou're only supposed to do the front and rear ones.
To be absolutely fair, I don't think Mazda intended us to do ANY of them.I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.
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all 3 tranny mounts filled actually reduces vibration over just the front/rear mounts being filled..... Just FYI---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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i'll be doing this soon
JACK.-Jack
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91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
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Originally posted by bpt323 View Postall 3 tranny mounts filled actually reduces vibration over just the front/rear mounts being filled..... Just FYIsigpic
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there are various methods for filling. the method i use has been prooven numerous times to be less harsh with all 3 filled.... leaving the beltside mount untouched---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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I used polyurethane roof flashing from lowes (the black poly, not the tan) and I let it sit up for 7 days in my garage. I only did this to the trans side mount on my 6 and after a week of breaking in, there's no vibration. I had the RR-racing insert on the front while nothing but a stock mount was on the rear. I bought a rear insert and installed it. I'm getting vibration, but over all, it was a good move it still needs more time to break in. I think the window sealer is too hard. The roof flashing is softer but it still holds really well.
14.500@95.68 mph naturally aspirated
'94 Protege LX 5 speed "grooved" 34mpg average
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When changing mount just make sure to always have the engine supported by a jack from underneath the car. You can use the jack to lower and raise the engine as needed. I would recoment that you use a little hydrolic one. Use a block of wood in between the engine and the jack.
Make sure to check the manuel to see which bolts need tread lock.
I changed 3 engine mounts last weeken on my other car which is a 96 nissan sentra and it was not difficult at all.Last edited by ivan15; 05-30-2008, 10:21 AM.
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