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    Help: car won't start

    Need help guys. Finished putting my rebuilt BP in the car and it won't start. It cranks, there is spark, FP is working, timing is freshly done but still no go. Disconnected water thermosensor and ISC but doesn't start.

    Any tips?

    #2
    is the engine getting fuel?
    Beater=/= Sleeper

    Originally posted by kozzman555
    kitty, you are a hilarious woman
    Originally posted by HopelessCow
    there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
    Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

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      #3
      I checked for fuel pressure, the FPR, replaced injectors for know working ones and still no go. I'm out of ideas. the engine should be getting enough fuel and I'm out of ideas. Anyone?

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        #4
        Can you smell fuel like its stupid rich or is it bone dry?
        After cranking for a while pull a plug and see if its wet.
        Are you getting injector pulse? Grab an injector tightly with ur fingers while cranking and feel if its pulsing.
        Powered by ACME

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          #5
          Should the engine start with the TPS unplugged? I am trying to unplug as many things as possible to just get the engine running. Spark plugs are wet, I'll dry them tomorrow and try again.

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            #6
            Getting spark? I had an issue with intermittent spark due to a hair line crack in the rotor and spent weeks trying to get the car to fire over a $5 part. Thats why you don't use cheap parts.

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              #7
              If the lifters are stuck compressed, would the valves still open enough to make the engine run?

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                #8
                HMMM I would say it should still "fire" maybe not stay running but still fire.
                If its a fresh build,shut down the fuel via the fuse or relay and crank that thing over without fuel for a while to build oil pressure,Then retry starting.
                If the plugs are wet and you have spark double check the valve timing.
                Powered by ACME

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                  #9
                  the hlas wont fully pressurize with out constant rpm, just cranking it wont work.
                  It'll still start with the hla not doing there job though.

                  car will start with out TPS.
                  Beater=/= Sleeper

                  Originally posted by kozzman555
                  kitty, you are a hilarious woman
                  Originally posted by HopelessCow
                  there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
                  Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok great. I already cranked the car for a while with the injectors unplugged, it should have enough pressure by now. I'll dry the plugs and try again, maybe they are simply fouled by now.

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                      #11
                      Car is hard to start and it stalls and looks like it misfires. It is running extra rich as the sparks are all black and wet. I use stock components for now, BP vaf, ecu and wiring so don't know what to tune there. Spark plugs do fire though.

                      Under load, it doesn't have any power, can't go above 1K rpm !?!?!?!?

                      Also, checked the compression and it is 160, 180, 180, 150? Head is rebuilt and pistons and rings are new. Is this somehow explainable?

                      If the cam timing is bad by 1 tooth, would the car still run?

                      Throw out any pertinent ideas, will go back tomorrow to try to figure it out.

                      Thanks

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                        #12
                        yeah check your cam and ignition timing, and im pretty sure it can run when its off a tooth on the cam timing, it just wont run "good". Your compression is good enough for the engine to run, ive got 170 180 150 and 120, and my car runs great.
                        90 LX PS/AC delete, pacesetter header, gutted cat, resonator delete, full 2 inch exhaust. rx7 VAF, home made intake, F&R ebay STB. 18* timing.
                        200lbs in weight reduction. old school bmw 318 wheels

                        http://www.cardomain.com/id/gascanexplode

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                          #13
                          But my engine is freshly rebuilt, it should have 180 all over. Will it be better after break in?

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