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Help, please - shifter control rod clevis bolt stuck

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    Help, please - shifter control rod clevis bolt stuck

    Hello, Everyone

    Happy Thanksgiving to All !

    I'm trying to remove the shifter control rod from the tranny on my 92 LX (G tranny). I can't get the clevis bolt to budge. I need to remove the tranny from the engine to replace the clutch. Would like to hear from anyone who has figured out how to remove the bolt or found a work-around that allows access to the clutch.

    BTW, if I can get to it, I've got a 10-lb steel flywheel from Flyin Miata and a Spec organic disc clutch (230 ft/lb) 21.5 lbs total flywheel and clutch. Also have Adv Auto axles. Will post pix - if I can find a way to access the clutch.

    #2
    you should be able to knock that bolt out with a punch once you get the nut off

    if you absolutely cant... pull back the rubber bellows on the shift rod. theres a (10mm?) bolt there. if you take that out, you can remove the end of the shift rod. this is how you replace the shift shaft seal... but it should allow you to get your transmission out.
    Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
    ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
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      #3
      I had the same problem, I just left the control rod attached to the transaxle (and disconnected it from the shifter) until I got it out of the car, and dealt with it then.
      sigpic

      03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
      92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

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        #4
        Originally posted by therieldeal View Post
        you should be able to knock that bolt out with a punch once you get the nut off

        if you absolutely cant... pull back the rubber bellows on the shift rod. theres a (10mm?) bolt there. if you take that out, you can remove the end of the shift rod. this is how you replace the shift shaft seal... but it should allow you to get your transmission out.
        Thanks a bunch for this! I finally found an exploded view on page J2-15 of the 92 FSM. When you remove the change rod joint from the change rod, does the change rod stay in place, or is it necessary to mark alignment for correct reassembly, or immobilize the change rod somehow, or any other precaution?

        Thanks again!

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          #5
          you should not have to mark or imobilize it, but you may want to to put it in neutral prior to removal to allow some play in it to make re assembly a bit easier
          "Discontent is the first necessity of progress."
          -Thomas A. Edison

          "There is a fine line between ballin' on a budget, and dreamin' on an empty wallet."


          *Junked* 92 mx3, BP swap- milage whore, beaten up and down the east coast
          *Junked* KLZE powered 323 on Megasquirt 1
          172.60HP & 156.93 TQ with only headers and short ram intake. back under the knife for a BPT swap.
          New Daily stock 1.6L 1999 Mazda Protege LX

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            #6
            I'm running the Flyin' Miata flywheel and an ACT HD clutch (solid disc, 285 lb-ft.) on the original B8 and a GTX box in my '90 4WD pro. AFter driving the car for a couple weeks, then getting into my 323 again, with a stock replacement clutch, the 323 pedal felt like I could push it down with one pinky compared to the pedal in the Protege.

            I'm liking the lightweight flywheel too, It's much nicer shifting than with the heavy original one.

            I think you'll like the setup!!

            --sarge

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by atomicEGT View Post
              I had the same problem, I just left the control rod attached to the transaxle (and disconnected it from the shifter) until I got it out of the car, and dealt with it then.
              thats how I have had to do it also
              sigpic
              1990 EGT Turbo RIP
              1995 EGT GTX RIP
              1991 323 GTX swapped
              2003.5 MSP

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