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    Auto -> Manual Swap wiring

    Ok, so I've searched and can't find any clear cut answers as to what I'll need to do. I found this but it is very vague and doesn't really tell me all that well what I need to do.
    Originally posted by 323driver View Post
    Just look at the wiring diagrams guys. I did an auto to manual swap on my 4wd going from USDM to JDM tranny without the diff lock at the same time and there is nothing complecate: either swap harnesses completely or cut off some wires.

    1. Cut off the tranny control module wires under the dash.
    2. Pull back the wires going to the tranny back into the cabin and connect two of them to the starter switch (on clutch pedal) Leave the 2 back up wires where they are, they connect to the backup switch on the manual tranny as well (i think they are red and black/yellow)
    3. Add clutch switch and neutral switch wires
    4. There are some other wires that you need to connect together under the dash but I don't remember, just look at the wiring diagrams

    P.S. Manual BG cars start in any gear as long as you hold the clutch pedal.
    Can anyone give me more specifics on this? I plan on getting the engine harness and I can get the dash harness if absolutely necessary but it is pretty hard to get out and I'd rather just solder on a switch or whatever is necessary.
    Thanks.
    -Steve

    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
    VF10 powered!
    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
    13.1@107

    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

    #2
    automatics have an "inhibitor" switch. It's a (4-pin, i think?) connector, possibly the same connector that has the reverse light wires. It prevents the starter from turning over unless the car is in neutral or park.

    Manuals have a "starter interlock" switch, which is located at the clutch pedal. This prevents the starter from turning over unless the clutch pedal is depressed.

    You CAN just jump the connector on the manual harness, and bypass said switch, but then you run the risk of smashing your car into whatever's nearby if you forget to put in the clutch. I'ts really quite easy to run the wires from the connector on the manual harness to the clutch switch. I had mine jumped, and never had a problem, but when I sold the car I decided that I'd better put in the switch. Ended up taking me all of 20 minutes to cut and crimp some wires.

    No need to solder anything, just run two wires from the harness (crimp on some male spades to plug into the connector) and do the same for the clutch switch that will be already attached to the pedal assembly of the donor.

    As for the automatic transmission controller module, just take it out when you take out the automatic pedal assembly.

    My experience is with a '91 EGT with an auto that I converted to a manual. I changed over to the manual engine harness (and manual TB, since the automatics have the 4-wire). Didn't touch the cabin harness.

    --sarge
    Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 08-08-2010, 01:53 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Where is the inhibitor switch? And so all I'll have to do is wire the clutch switch to where the inhibitor switch used to plug in?
      And where is the automatic controller module?
      -Steve

      94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
      VF10 powered!
      262 Whp & 257 Wtq
      13.1@107

      '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

      Comment


        #4
        inhibitor switch is inside the transmission.

        automatic trans control module is mounted on the topside of the pedal assembly.

        Comment


          #5
          black plug in the engine bay, splicing a couple of wires together....... there was a semi writeup on it somewhere on here any luck searching?
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment


            #6
            Yeah I searched and didn't find much on the topic other than the post I quoted.
            -Steve

            94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
            VF10 powered!
            262 Whp & 257 Wtq
            13.1@107

            '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

            Comment


              #7
              Well make sure your swap is well documented, I drove my new 323 for two and a half hours today and I am already sick of the ''hold'' button LMAO
              Dominic Toretto rocks a MaZda and his cell phone number starts in "(323)"

              My Work Log:http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46003

              sigpic

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by IMACHU2 View Post
                Well make sure your swap is well documented, I drove my new 323 for two and a half hours today and I am already sick of the ''hold'' button LMAO
                You know me. Look at my worklog. I take a million pictures. lol. Whatever we end up doing I'll be sure to document it.
                -Steve

                94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                VF10 powered!
                262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                13.1@107

                '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                Comment


                  #9
                  you take the white plug in front and jump the tho heavier gauge wire together. that is how i did it on my swap it works great just had to get the manual clutch and brake pedal combo and take the park interlock out of the ignition shifter linkage and shifter boot it wil fit in the automatic console clutch flywheel tranny if you go gseries take cross member and axles. there you go Ace.
                  1989 bf b6 hatch. dead
                  1992 maz 323 project rally. dead

                  1991 mazda protege custom cai
                  2.5 inch exhaust in to magnaflo dual tip muffler
                  bp swap obx stainless header exintake miata 10.1 pistons and megasquirt comming real soon




                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    you take the white plug in front and jump the two heavier gauge wire together. that is how i did it on my swap it works great just had to get the manual clutch and brake pedal combo and take the park interlock out of the ignition shifter linkage and shifter boot it will fit in the automatic console clutch flywheel tranny if you go g series take cross member and axles. there you go Ace.
                    1989 bf b6 hatch. dead
                    1992 maz 323 project rally. dead

                    1991 mazda protege custom cai
                    2.5 inch exhaust in to magnaflo dual tip muffler
                    bp swap obx stainless header exintake miata 10.1 pistons and megasquirt comming real soon




                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      This thread is relevant to my interests :o

                      I hope going from a 1.9 to a BP won't make it TOO much more difficult...
                      sigpic

                      03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                      92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                      Comment


                        #12
                        found this after alot of digging............
                        Attached Files
                        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by atomicEGT View Post
                          This thread is relevant to my interests :o

                          I hope going from a 1.9 to a BP won't make it TOO much more difficult...
                          It shouldn't you'll still be using a BP harness.
                          Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
                          found this after alot of digging............
                          Great. So in theory if I run that to the clutch switch it will work properly?
                          How about removing a pin from the ignition so I can remove the key?
                          -Steve

                          94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                          VF10 powered!
                          262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                          13.1@107

                          '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Ace View Post
                            Great. So in theory if I run that to the clutch switch it will work properly?
                            How about removing a pin from the ignition so I can remove the key?
                            no theory about it, that's what we already said a couple times.

                            Regarding the pin: there's a cable that goes from the shifter lever to the ignition switch, it's pretty easy to disconnect that and change it so the key comes out easily enough. I barely remember what I did, but I do remember that it took all of about 30 seconds.

                            --sarge

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Ok, Well I just wanted to be 100% sure on everything. So apparently the better, easier, cheaper option is to keep the auto harness and ecu and just add the clutch switch. How about reverse lights? which wire on the black plug are they(it?)?
                              -Steve

                              94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                              VF10 powered!
                              262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                              13.1@107

                              '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                              Comment

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