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    Stick Shift issues!

    So, I was driving to work; like we do. And I came to a stop; and noted it was slightly weird getting into first gear; then I noticed, at that time, it would be impossible to get into second gear. So I putted over to a gas station (right across the street) and immediately noted that my stick was depressed into the floor. I jump out, grab my trusty (lol no) OEM Jack and raise the side of the car to peak underneath. The shifter is now resting on top of my exhaust pipe! After discovering this, it immediately became easy to shift again, because if I just held the stick up as I did it; it would go right into gear.

    Ofcourse, I can't drive around like this all the time, sooooo anyone have any clues of what I need to look at? I didn't see anything broken, or loose when I looked underneath; am I going to need to tear apart my center console area to replace some small part; or do I need to run to the junk yard and grab and entirely new stick and put it in?
    Last edited by Syntax; 09-13-2010, 06:15 AM.
    1993 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1993-2007)
    1991 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1991-2009)
    1994 Mazda Protege DX: Alive (1994- )

    #2
    Sorry to double post, but I think I fixed it; went outside during my break at work; and took apart the center console; the stick assembly had slipped through the rubber holding thing; and I just pulled it back up and through.....doh
    1993 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1993-2007)
    1991 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1991-2009)
    1994 Mazda Protege DX: Alive (1994- )

    Comment


      #3
      take some self tapping screws and screw them into each side. then your shifter won't fall anymore.
      -Steve

      94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
      VF10 powered!
      262 Whp & 257 Wtq
      13.1@107

      '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

      Comment


        #4
        take apart the console...takes like 3min. and see what's up (the shifter assembly is usually held by 4 nuts)...crazy that it would just fall out...i'd personally tack weld that hoe back in place if all 4 are broken or maybe use new bolts/nuts, i just like stuff to be secure and clean looking even if it's under the car
        Originally posted by 90prtege
        have you heard a yaris drive by you??? it says immmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmgayyyyyyyyy!!!!
        Originally posted by Turpro
        Fk the family. Drugs and hookers take priority first

        bpt323: broom break
        CRZbrussian: that sux
        CRZbrussian: get swifer wet
        CRZbrussian: ****s aluminum

        Comment


          #5
          his plate didn't fall, the rubber support that holds the shifter up and absorbs vibration ripped. its not supported by anything else on that end.
          Sure you can weld it solid, but where the stabilizer bar connects to the transmission takes a real beating and can crack the case. I would put a couple self tappers in there, then fill it with windoweld and be done with it.
          -Steve

          94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
          VF10 powered!
          262 Whp & 257 Wtq
          13.1@107

          '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

          Comment


            #6
            sounds logical to me ace
            -Jack

            ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

            91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

            01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

            91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

            Comment


              #7
              I'm not sure where Ace wants me to put in the screws...

              The rubber sleeve that supports the stick hasn't ripped; it just literally slipped through it. (Maybe it finally got really soft?)

              Everyone here at works keeps saying to put some JB Weld; but I'd rather not; and I've been thinking of something to put in there for more support as well.


              So; where exactly am I screwing? You mean the sleeve to the plate? (cause that's not moving right now; it's quite snug).



              EDIT:
              Fell out when I got in the car from getting off work; so I jammed some 4GA cable in there just to hold it up while I drove home; which worked for awhile, until I got into neighborhood driving and the stick moved more; causing those to fall out.

              THEN, I went ahead and bought an O-fastener (o-ring? ...one of those circles with perforations that you screw to close.) on it and added some rubber from the wires to it to stop it from rattling; and added alil more 4GA for support; and drove around a neighborhood without getting out of third gear to test it; seems to be holding strong.....

              So for the self tapping screws, I should screw the bottom from under the car, up into the car?



              I'm honestly probably going to hit up pick n pull either thursday, or even tomorrow and just take a plate from there; if it's only four nuts, I can switch it and forget it ever happened for like 10 bucks.
              Last edited by Syntax; 09-13-2010, 05:23 PM.
              1993 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1993-2007)
              1991 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1991-2009)
              1994 Mazda Protege DX: Alive (1994- )

              Comment


                #8

                -Steve

                94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                VF10 powered!
                262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                13.1@107

                '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                Comment


                  #9
                  So you're suggesting this method:





                  ? That what I thought originally, then decided that might be risky; hopefully my current Jerry Rig holds until I figure something more permanent out. I may end up doing that; cause even if I replace the plate, it might happen again.


                  I currently have one of these:


                  Holding it up :D
                  Last edited by Syntax; 09-13-2010, 11:42 PM.
                  1993 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1993-2007)
                  1991 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1991-2009)
                  1994 Mazda Protege DX: Alive (1994- )

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Personally I would do the screw method so i could drive then get a spare one and window weld it. Then you will have time to let it cure properly before you install it.
                    -Steve

                    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                    VF10 powered!
                    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                    13.1@107

                    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hm, I'm starting to consider going to pick and pull and just taking the entire assembly; stick, plate, everything. And just bolting it onto mine...I went out today; expecting to have an easy time getting the plate off; but then I realized, to get the one off my car I'd have to get my exhaust pipe off too; which I wasn't really counting on.

                      Annoying; I've added more foundation to my jerry rig; grabbed the rubber part that broke off; and "GOOP" glue'd it on; leaving it in my 110 degree car most of the day, and obviously over night to set. (Not enough time to fully set, but the stick is still supported by the hose clamp; doesn't look like it moved much).

                      Does anyone sell Window Weld in small amounts? Or only those tubes? Autozone wasn't very helpful; as always.
                      1993 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1993-2007)
                      1991 Mazda Protege DX: RIP (1991-2009)
                      1994 Mazda Protege DX: Alive (1994- )

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If you get a tube, you can do your motor mounts to.
                        Just my $.02
                        94 pro base model, all synthetic fluids, s/r struts, front & rear ebay upper strut bars,front & rear tie bar, ZX2 1" front swaybar, EGT 21mm rear sway bar, custom delrin endlinks front & rear, custom delrin rear swaybar mount bushings, EBC front blanks & redstuff pads, CS ss brake lines & dot 4 fluid, big drum brakes in rear (from ZX2, free parts), 2.25 custom exaust w/magnaflo oval muffler, 4-wire o2 sensor, custom ram-air, 4-wire BP tb, MSD super conducter plug wires, MSD Blaster SS coil, NGK iridiums,OEM weighted shift knob, ebay short shifter, bronzoil bushings, CS ss clutch line, custom air splitter, mx-3 recaro drivers seat, EGT foglight switch, 35w 5000k hi/lo hid's

                        soon:
                        lightened flywheel & clutch; in garage,
                        Miata Daisy's; after new tires

                        Comment


                          #13
                          thanks for the pics, i never had this happen to me, but will know what to do if it does
                          Originally posted by 90prtege
                          have you heard a yaris drive by you??? it says immmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmgayyyyyyyyy!!!!
                          Originally posted by Turpro
                          Fk the family. Drugs and hookers take priority first

                          bpt323: broom break
                          CRZbrussian: that sux
                          CRZbrussian: get swifer wet
                          CRZbrussian: ****s aluminum

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Root cause

                            just my G2... Look into the root cause as well... You may have some worn mounts and your engine is rocking back and forth too much resulting in the shifter ripping apart and falling thru. Its whats happening with mine.

                            I put self tappings in and if I step on the gas and let go I get major shifter movement. Its really aggravating, but she s getting put away this weekend. Its on my to do list this wintrer... AWR FTW
                            91 GT- Li'l Bee (under construction)
                            2013 Honda Accord V6 coupe - 14.7 sec. 1/4 mile

                            New Thread:
                            Wilyb's 91 Pro GT Rebuild: Li'l B: http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...Rebuild-Li-l-B

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