What did you do to your BG(part 8)

[Racerboy]

Changed ecu's. Mine went bad. Now I only have 2 spare left. At one time I had 5 spare. My race car's went bad twice and now my 323.

[SgtRauksauff]

that's really kinda wierd... I've never had an ECU go bad, ever. I DID find a loose ground before though, which magically turned better for awhile after I changed ECU's. When it went bad again, I started digging, and found the broken wire, then spliced it with solder/shrinktube, put the old ECU back in, and it's been running fine ever since..

What "went bad" on it?

I started drawing up a design for a front light bar for a winter rally next weekend. Will be fabing and welding it up over this weekend.

Sounds interesting! I'd like to see how you're doing it, I still haven't come up with a permanent solution for my own cars yet. Are you integrating a skidplate/splash shield into the design?

--sarge

[Racerboy]

that's really kinda wierd... I've never had an ECU go bad, ever. I DID find a loose ground before though, which magically turned better for awhile after I changed ECU's. When it went bad again, I started digging, and found the broken wire, then spliced it with solder/shrinktube, put the old ECU back in, and it's been running fine ever since..

What "went bad" on it?
--sarge

Well, it wouldn't start unless I squirted gas into the intake vacuum port. Once it started it would run fine. It just didn't give it any fuel for starting up. When I changed ecus the problem went away. The same thing happened to my race car twice. It's like the ecu has two different modes. One mode for starting, once for running. And it always seems to have the starting mode go out.

[KAinjection]

Are you sure its not something to do with your fuel cut in your VAF or a bad wire? Is the ECU case grounded good?

A computer module should be the last thing to fail, unless you drive a chrysler

[Racerboy]

Are you sure its not something to do with your fuel cut in your VAF or a bad wire? Is the ECU case grounded good?

A computer module should be the last thing to fail, unless you drive a chrysler

I'm sure, because I plugged the ecu into my race car and it did the same thing.

[KAinjection]

Weird, I honestly think you have another issue to track down if you keep having ECU failures like that.

[gofanu]

Problem is the FP relay next to the ECU, or the ECU is not activating the relay in "start" position.

My notes, a bit cryptic but you can figure it out especially if you are looking at a wiring diagram.

"At diagnostic box: LG = FP = control coil output (grnd) from circuit opening (fuel pump) relay (in car by ECM). So the FP>jump>GND checks everything in thr FP circuit except bypasses MAF run signal and pump crank to start signal from ECU Also goes to MAF (switch for eng running signal????) Yes, per Haynes 12-25, LG is switched to B (gnd) in MAF when running.
{This fuel pump relay has two operating coils: one for starting = STA to E1 = 21 -43 ohms; one for operating B to Fc = 109-226 ohm. Above test checks operating coil, applying Battery power across STA-E1 checks start coil. B to Fp should be open with no power, or closed = 0 ohm with power across either coil. But the relay should not be operated for a long time with power across STA-E1 as it will overheat.

At relay plug: B is W/R wire 12V, Fc is LG grnd to MAF, Fp is B/P 12v out to pump, STA is V (12V starting sig from ECM), E1 is B = grnd

>>>Jumping W/R (battery) to B/P (pump) in the harness plug for the relay next to the ECM will bypass the relay completely and operate pump whenever key is ON. If there is power at B/P and the pump does not work, it is bad, or the B/P back to the pump is bad, or the grnd from the tank is bad."

So, if it is the ECU, then it is the circuit that switches power to the start coil in the FP relay. This should give you enough info to check and bypass it if necessary. Remember that anytime you fool with the ECU, you are also rattling the FP relay and wires around.

FRM

[Ace]

I installed my 95 durometer awr engine mounts. The vibes aren't really bad honestly, shifter hits the exhaust more though and that is really annoying.

[SgtRauksauff]

I checked the air in the tires of my Wagon and the 323 last Saturday......

and some other stuff, but I'll get it in my worklog soon.

--sarge

[heinze.ketchum]

I ogled it as I walked over to my other car. 2 months till it goes back on the road... stupid winter

[CODY004WD]

I've decided not to go HAM with the Wagon... We'll see what happens in the next few weeks... Suddenly, I need the garage space for my newest project... If the wagon isn't going to live in the garage, I would rather not have $12,000 worth of performance, and appearance modifications sitting on it. I'm thinking down grade the suspension to some nice struts and lowering springs, not supercharge it, sell the headlights and grille, maybe sell the leather interior, possibly sell the FE3-323 LCA bushings, and just put factory parts in place of that stuff. It will still be hella fun with just the KLDE +I/H/E etc...

I bought another car... White 88K mile 2000 Miata LS with the Suspension and Appearance packages.

[Scorch3]

Temp gauge never went up on the way to school, but when I got out the rad houses and stuff felt warm. Checked the sensor and the wire had broke off of the connector so I crimped a new spade connector on and all seems to be good now.

[KAinjection]

Went to the junkyard today and found a Tracer LTS, scored some nice clear corners, rare gauge surround with the pocket next to the defrost switch which amazingly was not broken, and of course the LTS lip.
Trying to figure out how to make that lip look best with a EGT bumper may not be that easy, since its not exactly the same shape on the bottom as a tracer bumper.

Also very close to finishing my early front EGT bumper with the molding strip removed.

[89BG 323]

found a new lx parts car for scrap price. gettin that shizz soon. w00t!

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Found the drain holes for the trunk. They were covered by water. A screwdriver, some force and 15 seconds later, no more water