Hooking up Msd Ignition coil SS

[Dijadoit]

Hi,

Trying to hook up a MSD SS ignition coil, I was looking at the diagram; I see a Y/BL wire coming from the igniter and a BL wire going to the ignition switch. I'm assuming they both hook up to the positive on the coil but were do I connect the negative. Do ground it or do I connect it to the negative battery terminal? If this was a non electronic ignition, I would route it to the condenser that would be located on the distributor. Need some help here if possible.

PS: I tried to do a search and ran into a road block finding some subject matter that was related but not what I was looking for.

[Mazda_Powered]

iirc the Y/BL is the + and BL is -

unless your oem coil is failing or out of spec, there's no need to swap in the MSD unit, OEM produces 40,000v, while some MSD products only produce 35,000v.

[Dijadoit]

I did not know that, I thought usually oem produces around 25-35,000 volts; that is good to know. But I might install the msd in the engine compartment as a backup and use snap connectors so I can do a quick change. But I like to still know if I need to ground that negative post or connect it to the battery.

[deadly_sleeper]

iirc the Y/BL is the + and BL is -

unless your oem coil is failing or out of spec, there's no need to swap in the MSD unit, OEM produces 40,000v, while some MSD products only produce 35,000v.

I looked that up since you mentioned that. It says on their site it produces 40,000. I didn't know our stock ones were so powerful. Nice to know.

[Proto-G]

Where is the information that says the OE coil produces 40,000 volts? I have not found that specification.

When I recently had a problem making emissions I decided to increase the spark by adding a MSD 6A and the swap became easier by replacing the coil. I grabbed a Ford Duraspark coil that I had sitting around and then passed emissions. In the interests of full disclosure I also had to install a new cat to complement Deadly Sleeper's old exhaust system. But to answer your other question the coil negative goes back through the stock wire, not to the battery.

[Mazda_Powered]

I cannot find the information anymore myself, but I have attempted to install two 35,000v coils with the same resistance specs and both would not produce enough voltage to carry the spark past 4,000rpm when I was N/A plug gap @ .040. I tried one with my GTX setup as well and it wouldn't even accelerate lol. Plug gap was at .032

[Dijadoit]

Hi,

Trying to hook up a MSD SS ignition coil, I was looking at the diagram; I see a Y/BL wire coming from the igniter and a BL wire going to the ignition switch. I'm assuming they both hook up to the positive on the coil but were do I connect the negative. Do ground it or do I connect it to the negative battery terminal? If this was a non electronic ignition, I would route it to the condenser that would be located on the distributor. Need some help here if possible.

PS: I tried to do a search and ran into a road block finding some subject matter that was related but not what I was looking for.

[Dijadoit]

The funny thing is when I installed it in my protege; months later the coil over heat, hitting its temp threshold and shut down like it does in my 323. To fix that, I installed a variable ohm ballast resistor "mallory 700" made for points and electronic ignition; it solved the problem. Pressing on the gas peddle and notice a softer acceleration and not jerky; plus the idling is a lot better.

[Ace]

hmm. I've had no problems with my MSD Blaster 2 coil.

[Mazda_Powered]

The funny thing is when I installed it in my protege; months later the coil over heat, hitting its temp threshold and shut down like it does in my 323. To fix that, I installed a variable ohm ballast resistor "mallory 700" made for points and electronic ignition; it solved the problem. Pressing on the gas peddle and notice a softer acceleration and not jerky; plus the idling is a lot better.

same thing happened to me twice with MSD blaster 2 coils lol, wasn't even boosted then...warrantied the first one then just went back to OEM after that crap lol