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    #1

    Turns over, no start

    Hey all! So I've got my self a 91 protege. She's a sweet little beast and I love her to death!

    I had run into a slight issue though, over a period of about one week my car started having issues starting. I would have to sit and argue with her to start would just sit there and turn over. After a while she would start! It got consistently worse and worse until the point where she was no longer starting. Pay day came and I decided to actually put some money into this car. So I bought new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. All of which was needed especially them plugs.

    Still no start though, so now this is where my panic sets in. I'm used to working on much older engines. In fact this is my first time owning a fuel injected vehicle. So as I'm sure you can imagine I'm very, very over whelmed. I have no clue what parts I'm looking at. I'm just a guy who likes to buy the part I need and bolt it in. Diagnosis of my old ford pickup was quite easy, this however. I have no clue where to start.

    So I tried to look at the big picture, my next assumption is the fuel pump. But I'll be damned if I can find it! I have finally given in and decided to get some out side opinions. I need this girl to run. Anyone care to help?
    Tags: None
    #2
    IF you assume the fuel pump, spray some carb cleaner in the throttlebody and see if the car starts up. If it starts then check all of the fuses before you replace the fuel pump. Next make sure you put your wires on right at the distributor. Also make sure that you put the rotor on the distributor the right way. Some distibutors have 3 ways the rotor can go on. I'd mark it the way it is and try other ways.
    Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
    "Who Dey"

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by bomdoutscort View Post
      IF you assume the fuel pump, spray some carb cleaner in the throttlebody and see if the car starts up. If it starts then check all of the fuses before you replace the fuel pump. Next make sure you put your wires on right at the distributor. Also make sure that you put the rotor on the distributor the right way. Some distibutors have 3 ways the rotor can go on. I'd mark it the way it is and try other ways.
      Wires, rotor, and distributor are all set properly. I didn't just yank it out and replaced it. But even so with the old wires and distributor the car started just fine. I'm sure they would still work, that as a problem was eliminated the moment she didn't start.

      I assume fuel pump because I have no idea what else it could be. Fuses all seem to be fine as well.

      I should add that the car has been sitting for few weeks, tried starting it again just for giggles and it actually sputtered a bit even puffed out some smoke! I tend to take this as a good sign. But of course if I end up getting it running there is a good chance I'll run into this problem once again. I should also add that I can actually hear the pump when I turn the ignition.

      Comment

        #4
        check the timing belt . may have skipped a notch and your timing is now way off ... you havent mentioned what trim level protege you have so we dont know what motor you have in the car


        Comment

          #5
          Pull the plugs and leave em on the wires and lay em on the valvecover and crank it and looj for spark. If you have gas you'll smell it then. If you hear the pump it aint that. Pump is all or nuthin unless gou got really lucky and. broke a pickup tube which prettymuch doesn't happen. If you have fuel spark and air then it is time to check timing. The fact that it got gradually worse poi ts to maybe bad fuel filter. But if it was running well once it started then that aint it. It could be a vacuum leak but that would keep it from running well either, so I gotta stop vuessi g due to lack of info...
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

          Comment

            #6
            IDK, I've never had to replace a fuel pump on one of these cars. I've had 3, all well over 200K on each, original pumps.

            Gotta check the basics: air, fuel, spark, compression, timing...

            Pull the coil wire while cranking, hold to to ground, should see spark.

            Check for fuel at the rail, make sure the pressure is good.

            Make sure you have no intake or exhaust problems. Its just a pump, its gotta breathe.

            You should know just by the sound of it turning over if it has adequate compression to fire.

            And make sure you have plenty of battery power of course.

            Is it manual or auto?
            Last edited by Jho; 11-11-2013, 08:27 PM.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by BMRX View Post
              Wires, rotor, and distributor are all set properly. I didn't just yank it out and replaced it. But even so with the old wires and distributor the car started just fine. I'm sure they would still work, that as a problem was eliminated the moment she didn't start.

              I assume fuel pump because I have no idea what else it could be. Fuses all seem to be fine as well.

              I should add that the car has been sitting for few weeks, tried starting it again just for giggles and it actually sputtered a bit even puffed out some smoke! I tend to take this as a good sign. But of course if I end up getting it running there is a good chance I'll run into this problem once again. I should also add that I can actually hear the pump when I turn the ignition.
              Then like I said, spray some carb cleaner in the throttlebody and see if it starts up.
              Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
              "Who Dey"

              Comment

                #8
                Carb cleaner was a no go, but I think we found the problem.

                What I believe to be the injectors is the problem. All of the wired connections spin freely and when I tried to start a small puff of smoke came from one of them. Upon further investigation I found gas just above the wired connections. Pic's to come if it doesn't make sense.


                Arrow indicates where smoke came from and where gas was found.
                Last edited by BMRX; 11-12-2013, 05:29 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Ok they should be able to rotate even thouvgh they don't move in operation. Gas in the pockets says bad o rings but this ain t gonna keep the car from starting.
                  '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                  '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                  http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by MazdaNoob View Post
                    check the timing belt . may have skipped a notch and your timing is now way off ... you havent mentioned what trim level protege you have so we dont know what motor you have in the car
                    Oh wow didn't even see this, we'll I'm driving a DX so 1.8 SOHC? At least I believe it's a 1.8. I've never had to touch a timing belt before, how should I go about doing that?

                    @Jay: Well I guess I'm back to square one.
                    Last edited by BMRX; 11-13-2013, 11:08 AM.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Well not quite! You do not want gas puddling round your injectors. to check timing belt (and ii jkinda dou t tbis is the problem) unbolt the belt coverand pull #1 plug. rotate motor till you have TDC on #1, ald have the timing mark on the cam wheel(s, if dualcam) lined up with the marks on the sheetmetal behaind the wheel. if you cant get those events to go down at the same time, the belt slipped.
                      Have you verified you ha e spark yet?
                      '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                      '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                      http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Yes spark is verified but apparently it's a weak spark, as for the timing belt I have yet to get the cover off seems to be caught on everything.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          fix the injector o-rings before you proceed further please .. gas fires SUCK


                          Comment

                            #14
                            also do you have access to a compression tester? if so i would simply do a compression test to see if the timing belt has skipped


                            Comment

                              #15
                              So, I've hit my limit. I gave up on trying to diagnose it. The car it's self was only worth $500 and showed that it was worth every dollar. Quite beat up, I also happened upon a nice "bonus" from my employer so I purchased a 2001 Protege instead.

                              Comment

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