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Connecting Rod Cating Marks

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    Connecting Rod Cating Marks

    Assembling pistons and connecting rods. I know which cylinders I took them out of, but I don't remember which way they were facing, I only remember they weren't consistent (two had the casting marks facing the oil pump, the other two were opposite). Three are marked "G", one is marked "H". They've been checked for bends and they're straight.

    Do these casting marks mean anything? Does it matter which way I reassemble them?

    Click image for larger version

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    #2
    The marks on the pistons are the only ones that matter. Rods can can go either way.
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      #3
      Thank you

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        #4
        The fillet radius can vary from side to side and depending on clearance could be a problem if you've had a good amount of crank play and using all old parts(save bearings). But if you're assembling it proper it would be discovered during test fighting.
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          #5
          Originally posted by Kitty View Post
          The fillet radius can vary from side to side and depending on clearance could be a problem if you've had a good amount of crank play and using all old parts(save bearings). But if you're assembling it proper it would be discovered during test fighting.
          That's my concern. I'll pay attention to this when I drop them in.

          I'm chalking up the gouged rod bearings to oil starvation. Car was run with an open intake and a previous owner went ape with the RTV so I'm guessing a passage got clogged.

          Disassembling the bottom end was a mistake. The crank bearings looked good for the most part. I don't have a lot of confidence in the rock auto rebuild bearings, but the entire rebuild kit costs as much as the main bearings alone from the dealership. I think the thrust washer was $60 and the rod bearings were $350.

          If I could do it again, I'd just go with the short block below.

          mazda complete engine short block rpm Santaquin utah rons precision machine

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