Lateral link bushings ??

[FE3-323]

Bolt #7 is very frequent to breaking in rust prone states..... beware you may need an emergency set from cali (thanks dave) or try the dealership

[mike_moss]

Bolt #7 and whatever the other one is on the other end of the link wouldn't even spin on one of the subframes I have here. Mind you, this subframe is really rusted (hence the reason I was fooling around with it).

[FE3-323]

it took me 7 hours with alot of bashing using a large maul (did not start with prepared tools)
point being... have cutting/grinding tools and at minimum 1 hammer. more than likely if its rusted solid. you'll have to break the heads off and slide it offer pry it off.

[mike_moss]

I tried for about 20mins using a 450ft-lb. electric impact gun. Got the nut off no problem, but the bolt wouldn't even spin. I hope my MX-3 subframe doesn't give me any problems.

[FE3-323]

Kicking up an very old thread folks...
I've run the noltec bushings for some time now, Not throughly impressed with a few things:
1. installation-the bushings are slightly squished out, as in poor design.
2. in order for proper greasing to be done you must cut/melt your own grease grooves in all 8 bushings

The bushigns overall have significantly improved the handling over the stock rubber. But for the cost of the Noltec bushings & their so to speak lack of design in the bushings i don't reccomend them for the cost.

Tommorow I will be following through with Michael Stone via email finalizing for a kit to be sent to me for test fittment into a set of L.L.
I have high expectations & seeing the designs of superpro's bushings i have no doubts that their bushings will far exceed our expectations.

Stay tuned

Ryan

[SgtRauksauff]

not only am I staying tuned, I am also cranking up the volume. I'm definitely wanting a set of TTL bushings by the beginning of May.


--sarge

[FE3-323]

glad to have your support again. Im begining to write Michael ATM

[FE3-323]

now awaiting a repsonse from Mr. Stone

[Speedyj]

now awaiting a repsonse from Mr. Stone

I am waiting too, I bought Noltec and I must say that instalation is horror. I used press and one pair of my friend hands, but I am not satisfied with result of this "tuning".
Bushing has bad design (and diameter ?) When I pressed sleeve in it, bushing went out of hole on the sides and is wider then sleeve

[FE3-323]

thats exactly the same results i had. They still work, but they don't look so pretty.

[ftjandra]

My solution

If you don't mind doing a little work, here is what I did and it was cheap too ($50). Go here and purchase 5 sets of the 9-9108. You really only need 4 sets, but you need some extra sleeves. When you get them, they look like this:



Their OD fits the TTL perfectly, but they are too wide. So, you need to make the bushings and the sleeves thinner. One of the stock bushings has a sleeve that is longer, that's why you need the extra sleeves to make up the difference. I had access to a lathe so all the modifications took me less than an hour. Unfortunately, I don't have all the measurements anymore, but they should be easy to figure out. I also melted some grooves so that they don't squeak (per bpt323's recommendation). The end result should look something like this, the two small sleeves are the extensions:



You will also need some big washers to put on each side of the bushing. I've had this setup on for over half a year now, and everything seems to be working like it should. Here are some finished pics (ignore all the lube...), the last one shows the extra sleeve:







--Ferdi

[FE3-323]

what is the durometer of those bushings there?? i bet you had loads of fun melting those grooves didn't ya

Your install looks good that must be the quickor 1" rear bar i assume? are those still in production?

[ftjandra]

what is the durometer of those bushings there?? i bet you had loads of fun melting those grooves didn't ya

Your install looks good that must be the quickor 1" rear bar i assume? are those still in production?

Hmm, if I had to take a guess, they are probably durometer 80, pretty hard. They are the same hardness as the ES LCA bushings. Melting in the grooves was actually really easy. I used an old ratshack 40watt soldering iron.

And, yeah, that's the Quickor 1" bar. I don't think they are being made anymore, I bought it a LONG time ago. You can see how I welded on a 1" steel spacer and made a new bracket for the bushing. The stock bracket that 'clipped' on just didn't seem very sturdy to me.

[FE3-323]

ah, you welded it to the frame that makes sense now, how does it effect the ability of the bar tho since you altered the angle of the mounting. Still im loving the customizing

How do you know that they are the same duro as the ES LCA bushings?
the ES bushigns are 70 (from the mouth of a ES rep.), they have an available 80 duro but you have to ask for that. or so i was told at least.
I know that the noltec bushings are a 70 durometer, as I asked them too.

[ftjandra]

ah, you welded it to the frame that makes sense now, how does it effect the ability of the bar tho since you altered the angle of the mounting. Still im loving the customizing

How do you know that they are the same duro as the ES LCA bushings?
the ES bushigns are 70 (from the mouth of a ES rep.), they have an available 80 duro but you have to ask for that. or so i was told at least.
I know that the noltec bushings are a 70 durometer, as I asked them too.

Ok, I guess it's 70 then (I was thinking it was either 60 or 80, and I know that 60 is much softer than these). I still have the bushings from the 5th set and I compared them with the LCA bushings that I also have sitting right here and my fingers tell me that they are very similar .

I think the way the bar sits now is much better because the way the bar is made, it is much flatter that the OEM bar. If I would not have lowered it that 1", the bar would have no been sitting flat (unless I made the endlinks really short). It was my understanding that you want the bar to be as parallel to the ground as possible.