Lateral link bushings ??

[FE3-323]

Whats your issue with california..... strange, but hey whatever.

[FE3-323]

the superpro rear TTL bushings duro specs are now in

93duro Shore A (in other words perfect for the rear)
Stiffer then Energy suspension products. offered in 70 & 80 duro

Ryan

[lakersfan1]

Whats your issue with california..... strange, but hey whatever.

I just moved back from the west coast after three years away from Chicago. Californians (and west coasters in general) are fruitcakes and douchebags. I thought all the stuff was rumour about the West coast. Well I can tell you it's not. Now I'm just waiting for California to fall into the ocean. Before I moved out there, I thought I hated Wisconsin. Well, not anymore. I love Wisconsin now. Seriously.

Oh, but my MX3 is a California car. I love her. No rust on a 13 year old car = love.

[FE3-323]

cali cars rock.... I personally understand that cali isn't that great... its fun for a vacation that lasts about a week. but beyond that it gets old.
WI still sucks & chicago is an unorganized old nightmare.

people suck everywhere.
suck up your pride & order some bushings.

[billzie]

Howdy,
I can't believe I haven't come across this thread in the past! Just seen today and I've been researching the bushings for about a month now.
Global (SuperPro) and Noltec both replied to me pretty quickly, within a week for both. Global just got pricing to me, same as mentioned. For some reason Noltec is just plain confusing over their pricing, so I'm glad that others don't recommend them, but it is an option.

bpt323, You got the Noltec units, right? They include 6 straight and 2 "stepped" sleeves. What do the "stepped" sleeves look like? Got pics? I'm assuming this is for the outer rear link, as it is the only different bushing, am I right?

My bigger questions are, has anyone been able to remove the outer long bolt that goes through the spindle? I've sold three sets of the rear discs to ZX2 guys and have tried pressing (20 ton shop press) them out on each with no luck (to make shipping packages smaller/cheaper). Now that I'm ready to do the job for my own two cars, I want to know the magic trick.
I am planning to sandblast them and maybe kinda box them to strengthen them, esp the front link, they seem to be pretty prone to bending. I then want to get them powder-coated if I can find a reasonably priced place. I have to get at least one rear end done in the next week or so, so I'm going to try the ftjandra plan.

Ferdi, when you say they need to be thinner are you referring to the stacked height? Just want to clarify. For washers, weren't the stock pieces sufficient? It looks to me that your burned grooves are pretty large, I originally imagined just some pencil line scores, doesn't these larger slots cause some slop or play?

BTW, ES is never going to make these bushings, although it would be nice. They intended the kit for ZX2 (probably sold more to non-ZX2 owners though) and I believe the ZX2 does have a slighlty different spacing and when swaping these parts in they need to make additional spacers to make them fit. Maybe they're just jerks.

Bill

[ftjandra]

Ferdi, when you say they need to be thinner are you referring to the stacked height? Just want to clarify. For washers, weren't the stock pieces sufficient? It looks to me that your burned grooves are pretty large, I originally imagined just some pencil line scores, doesn't these larger slots cause some slop or play?

First of all, just making sure that you have seen this thread: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23915.
Yes, I was referring to the stacked height. I attached a pic of what I meant about using large washers. Without them, the bolt head would be only thing preventing the entire assembly from sliding off the sleeve. Obviously, the sleeve is just a tad wider so that the washers aren't actually rubbing against the bushings. It looks like the Superpro bushings use a similar system.
Regarding the grooves. The pics make them look much larger than they really are. I couldn't tell a difference in play with the unmodified bushings. You can probably do without them - they may or may not squeak.



--Ferdi

[FE3-323]

bpt323, You got the Noltec units, right? They include 6 straight and 2 "stepped" sleeves. What do the "stepped" sleeves look like? Got pics? I'm assuming this is for the outer rear link, as it is the only different bushing, am I right?

The noltec units plainly just SUCK. don't waste your money on them. & yes they do include stepped sleeves. however its a poor design next to superpro bushings.
Its just a metal sleeve which the size jumps up to somwhere inbetween 1/2 to 3/4" of the bushing size. the bushings slide over them. the design sucks & they fit like ass.

The best way to remove the spindle side bolt is to torch it till it breaks free.
Without heat, you'll never get em out. that is if you live in a rusty climate.

[billzie]

Thanks for the reply.
Are the stock octagonal washers good enough?
I will not have use of a lathe. Do you think that a hot wire will be able to make a suitable cut off?
It seems as though the outer rear link bushing is different with a stepped shape. How did you work around this, or is it even a problem?
$50 is definitely worth the extra effort.
Thanks, Bill.

[billzie]

When I tried pressing them out before I tried just about everything in my arsenal, include a propane torch. Maybe not hot enough?
I'm in SE Ohio and JY parts from central Ohio, so rust is an issue, but not nearly as bad as in Cheeseland, ay.
My only luck might be with the first rear end I'm rebuilding, it is from a Utah desert car with almost no rust (even on the undercarriage). And, I've since gotten a 50 ton air/hydraulic shop press. I do not have oxy/acey torch however.
BTW, your front links look a lot differnt than mine, are they modded?
Bill.

[ftjandra]

Thanks for the reply.
Are the stock octagonal washers good enough?
I will not have use of a lathe. Do you think that a hot wire will be able to make a suitable cut off?
It seems as though the outer rear link bushing is different with a stepped shape. How did you work around this, or is it even a problem?
$50 is definitely worth the extra effort.
Thanks, Bill.

I guess the octagonal washers should work fine, but I don't remember if there are enough of them. To cut the bushings, I actually mounted them on my drill press (use a socket that fits snuggly in the hole) and slowly pressed in a utility knife while it was spinning (use water on the blade to keep it cool). This made really nice cuts - I still have all the rings it left behind...
To work around the longer bushing, I just used another sleeve cut to length (that's why I mentioned that you need to buy 5 sets).
Let me know if you need some close-up pics and I'll drive my car up on some ramps and take 'em.

Oh yeah, bpt323 is using MX3 links I think.

--Ferdi

[FE3-323]

MX3 links PWN the road. I see that you are securing a washer on both sides of the bushing that requires the extra length.good call ferdi billzie make sure @ all costs that you do that, else wise your bushing will push out & over the other sleeve. as a matter of fact, its a good idea for all of them.

[ftjandra]

how are you securing a washer on both sides of the bushing that requires the extra length??? make sure @ all costs that you do that, else wise your bushing will push out & over the other sleeve.

The washer is between the two sleeves, so it can't move (ID of washer < OD of sleeve).

--Ferdi

[FE3-323]

ya i went back & looked @ your pics again then re-edited my post

[lakersfan1]

I got my Energy 99108G from enrgysuspensionparts.com already. I just ordered this week.

But zxtuner.com I ordered my trailing arm bushings last week, and they're not answering my email. Are they always a bunch of jack-holes? And zxtuner.com is in California.

[mike_moss]

For anyone considering Energy Suspension stuff in the future, I carry the whole Energy Suspension line. Just shoot me a PM.