Lateral link bushings ??

[lakersfan1]

FYI, I finished my Energy Suspension TTL writeup for anyone interested in trying it.

http://www.mx-3.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=356467#356467

[FE3-323]

i found the best way to remove the inner sleeve was to use a small hole saw & cut the rubber.

[lakersfan1]

Not a bad idea. I probably could have even used a keyhole blade in my jigsaw. But most MX-3ers who already did the Nylatron bushings in front were advised by the Nylatron manufacturer to drill it out, so it's a technique they should all have experience with.

[billzie]

i found the best way to remove the inner sleeve was to use a small hole saw & cut the rubber.

I used an impact socket in my shop press and pressed them out, then with the entire bushing out I used a smaller socket and pressed the inner bolt sleeve out to reuse with the ES universal bushings. Then I cleaned up the ID of the links with a small drum sanding bit in my drill press, I didn't get them shiny perfect but nice enough, with the poly lube it should be a rust inhibitor.
Also, on this car (Tracer wagon), I'm not taking the time to make everything pretty, I need it running asap, so I haven't been taking the time to take pics along the way, maybe just some "after" shots, I'll see.

HTH, Bill.

[billzie]

Their OD fits the TTL perfectly, but they are too wide. So, you need to make the bushings and the sleeves thinner. One of the stock bushings has a sleeve that is longer, that's why you need the extra sleeves to make up the difference. I had access to a lathe so all the modifications took me less than an hour. Unfortunately, I don't have all the measurements anymore, but they should be easy to figure out. I also melted some grooves so that they don't squeak (per bpt323's recommendation). The end result should look something like this, the two small sleeves are the extensions:



--Ferdi

I took off 1/8" per each half of the bushing set, so 1/4" total needs to come off. I did something similar, I mounted them in a sanding drum bit (has a rubber cylinder that compresses when the nut is tightened) in my drill press and used the utility knife to cut through. Setting each one up takes longer than the cutting.

I'm trying to reuse the stock inner sleeves b/c I feel there is too much play with the ES supplied sleeves as they are SAE and our of course are metric. It's taking forever to do b/c the ID of the bushings are then too tight for the stock sleeve. What I'm trying, and it seems to work with the first one, is burning/melting those grooves (8) into the bushings with a heated drift punch and then using the lube and a ball joint press to press in the stock sleeve. This makes for a really snug fit, if I put more time in to it I'm sure it would be better, but I think it will turn out OK the way I'm doing it. I need this car on the ground running this weekend, when I do the LTS I'll do a better job.
One thing to say about the ES parts is they don't come with the poly grease that the other ES parts come with. This stuff isn't usually available at the local parts store so keep that in mind if going this route. I got mine in 3 oz mini grease gun tubes "Super Lube" from a restaurant supplier on Ebay. I would have spent 3x as much buying the ES product and gotten half the amount! I lubed the link a little and slid the bushings in, then lubed the inside of the bushings where I grooved it and then pressed in the sleeve. The excess lube that comes out gets used in the next bushing, and so on.

HTH, Bill.

[ftjandra]

Bill,
You mean that there is too much play between the bushings and the sleeves, or the sleeves and the bolt? The later shouldn't matter because once everything is tightened up, the sleeves won't be able to move.

Also, regarding the grease, this is what John(?) at suspension.com says:
"The Formula 5 PreLube offered by Energy Suspension and included in most sets where grease is required, is actually MARINE BOAT TRAILER GREASE. This is a high paraifin(wax) grease. It is designed to stick to anything it touches, because of the wax carrier of the lubricant. Our complaint regarding this grease is the wax carrier. We prefer to use Permatex Anti Seize grease. You can purchase it at most all auto parts stores or hardware stores. This grease has graphite in it, but does not have the wax. Anti-Seize grease is normally recommended for use on sparkplug threads when installed on aluminum heads, so the threads will not seize."

That is what I used and it seems to work great.

--Ferdi

[FE3-323]

hrmm good information to know

[billzie]

Bill,
You mean that there is too much play between the bushings and the sleeves, or the sleeves and the bolt? The later shouldn't matter because once everything is tightened up, the sleeves won't be able to move.

B/T the ES sleeve and the stock bolt. I though about it being snug in place, but I didn't want to take the chance, and I didn't want the extra little expense of another set of bushings just to get an extra sleeve I'm going to have to cut anyway.

Also, regarding the grease, this is what John(?) at suspension.com says:
"The Formula 5 PreLube offered by Energy Suspension and included in most sets where grease is required, is actually MARINE BOAT TRAILER GREASE. This is a high paraifin(wax) grease. It is designed to stick to anything it touches, because of the wax carrier of the lubricant. Our complaint regarding this grease is the wax carrier. We prefer to use Permatex Anti Seize grease. You can purchase it at most all auto parts stores or hardware stores. This grease has graphite in it, but does not have the wax. Anti-Seize grease is normally recommended for use on sparkplug threads when installed on aluminum heads, so the threads will not seize."

That is what I used and it seems to work great.

--Ferdi

I was told, and I can't remember who, that Super Lube is the patented manufacturer of that grease and it's relabelled for all the others.

What I wish I had was like a 70 or 80 sized Torx socket bit, so I can heat it up all at once and make the grooves in the bushings. Doing this with the drift punch tool is taking forever. I tried opening up the ID with a wood spade bit and it was less than perfect I'll say. I only did this with the two rear outer bushings and I'll continue tomorrow doing the melting.

Can you suggest a better, easier, faster way to do the melting? Keep in mind, I'm having to do a lot to give enough clearance for the stock sleeves.

Bill.

[ftjandra]

Can you suggest a better, easier, faster way to do the melting? Keep in mind, I'm having to do a lot to give enough clearance for the stock sleeves.

Bill.

When I did the melting I used an old 40watt soldering iron that I got from Radio Shack a long time ago. Once it heated up, I could do a groove about every 30 seconds (allowing 10-15 seconds in between to allow the iron to get back up to temp).

--Ferdi

[lakersfan1]

To reiterate what's in my MX3 bushing writeup, I didn't use ANY grease on my ES bushings. And I didn't melt any grease grooves. I just bored the center with a sanding bit until I could barely press the stock metal sleeves in.

I only greased the inner diameter of the stock sleeves where the bolt makes contact.

It's been done for some time like this, and not a SINGLE squeak from my rear suspension. I believe those bushings don't come with grease because they don't NEED grease.

[FE3-323]

everything *NEEDS* grease except clutch discs

[billzie]

It's been done for some time like this, and not a SINGLE squeak from my rear suspension. I believe those bushings don't come with grease because they don't NEED grease.

You're probably mostly right. The black ES bushings are supposed to be graphite impregnated, the red ones are not. However, it doesn't hurt, especially for any metal to metal contacts.
I've had some delays doing mine and goofed a lttle so that set me back too. I'm going to try to devote some time to it tomorrow if it's cool out.
Bill.

[lakersfan1]

You're probably mostly right. The black ES bushings are supposed to be graphite impregnated, the red ones are not. However, it doesn't hurt, especially for any metal to metal contacts.
I've had some delays doing mine and goofed a lttle so that set me back too. I'm going to try to devote some time to it tomorrow if it's cool out.
Bill.

Exactly. The black have a lubricant property anyways. And the only metal-to-metal contact is on the rods, where I did put energy grease. FYI, you can buy just the Energy grease by itself at Autozone.

[jimmystiva]

Where is a good place to get the rear latteral link poly bushings from?

It may have been mentioned already, but 12 pages is a lot to sift through.

Thanks!

[therieldeal]

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14631

superpro . mine are currently on order. taking forever because the rear trailing link bushings are on backorder.

-jon