FYI, I finished my Energy Suspension TTL writeup for anyone interested in trying it.
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Lateral link bushings ??
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i found the best way to remove the inner sleeve was to use a small hole saw & cut the rubber.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by bpt323i found the best way to remove the inner sleeve was to use a small hole saw & cut the rubber.
Also, on this car (Tracer wagon), I'm not taking the time to make everything pretty, I need it running asap, so I haven't been taking the time to take pics along the way, maybe just some "after" shots, I'll see.
HTH, Bill.Last edited by billzie; 06-15-2006, 10:39 AM.
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Originally posted by ftjandra
Their OD fits the TTL perfectly, but they are too wide. So, you need to make the bushings and the sleeves thinner. One of the stock bushings has a sleeve that is longer, that's why you need the extra sleeves to make up the difference. I had access to a lathe so all the modifications took me less than an hour. Unfortunately, I don't have all the measurements anymore, but they should be easy to figure out. I also melted some grooves so that they don't squeak (per bpt323's recommendation). The end result should look something like this, the two small sleeves are the extensions:
--Ferdi
I'm trying to reuse the stock inner sleeves b/c I feel there is too much play with the ES supplied sleeves as they are SAE and our of course are metric. It's taking forever to do b/c the ID of the bushings are then too tight for the stock sleeve. What I'm trying, and it seems to work with the first one, is burning/melting those grooves (8) into the bushings with a heated drift punch and then using the lube and a ball joint press to press in the stock sleeve. This makes for a really snug fit, if I put more time in to it I'm sure it would be better, but I think it will turn out OK the way I'm doing it. I need this car on the ground running this weekend, when I do the LTS I'll do a better job.
One thing to say about the ES parts is they don't come with the poly grease that the other ES parts come with. This stuff isn't usually available at the local parts store so keep that in mind if going this route. I got mine in 3 oz mini grease gun tubes "Super Lube" from a restaurant supplier on Ebay. I would have spent 3x as much buying the ES product and gotten half the amount! I lubed the link a little and slid the bushings in, then lubed the inside of the bushings where I grooved it and then pressed in the sleeve. The excess lube that comes out gets used in the next bushing, and so on.
HTH, Bill.Last edited by billzie; 06-15-2006, 10:36 AM.
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Bill,
You mean that there is too much play between the bushings and the sleeves, or the sleeves and the bolt? The later shouldn't matter because once everything is tightened up, the sleeves won't be able to move.
Also, regarding the grease, this is what John(?) at suspension.com says:
"The Formula 5 PreLube offered by Energy Suspension and included in most sets where grease is required, is actually MARINE BOAT TRAILER GREASE. This is a high paraifin(wax) grease. It is designed to stick to anything it touches, because of the wax carrier of the lubricant. Our complaint regarding this grease is the wax carrier. We prefer to use Permatex Anti Seize grease. You can purchase it at most all auto parts stores or hardware stores. This grease has graphite in it, but does not have the wax. Anti-Seize grease is normally recommended for use on sparkplug threads when installed on aluminum heads, so the threads will not seize."
That is what I used and it seems to work great.
--FerdiIf you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
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Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF
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hrmm good information to know---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by ftjandraBill,
You mean that there is too much play between the bushings and the sleeves, or the sleeves and the bolt? The later shouldn't matter because once everything is tightened up, the sleeves won't be able to move.
Originally posted by ftjandraAlso, regarding the grease, this is what John(?) at suspension.com says:
"The Formula 5 PreLube offered by Energy Suspension and included in most sets where grease is required, is actually MARINE BOAT TRAILER GREASE. This is a high paraifin(wax) grease. It is designed to stick to anything it touches, because of the wax carrier of the lubricant. Our complaint regarding this grease is the wax carrier. We prefer to use Permatex Anti Seize grease. You can purchase it at most all auto parts stores or hardware stores. This grease has graphite in it, but does not have the wax. Anti-Seize grease is normally recommended for use on sparkplug threads when installed on aluminum heads, so the threads will not seize."
That is what I used and it seems to work great.
--Ferdi
What I wish I had was like a 70 or 80 sized Torx socket bit, so I can heat it up all at once and make the grooves in the bushings. Doing this with the drift punch tool is taking forever. I tried opening up the ID with a wood spade bit and it was less than perfect I'll say. I only did this with the two rear outer bushings and I'll continue tomorrow doing the melting.
Can you suggest a better, easier, faster way to do the melting? Keep in mind, I'm having to do a lot to give enough clearance for the stock sleeves.
Bill.
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Originally posted by billzieCan you suggest a better, easier, faster way to do the melting? Keep in mind, I'm having to do a lot to give enough clearance for the stock sleeves.
Bill.
--FerdiIf you can't differentiate between brake and break, you should go back to school
-----
Miscellaneous Pics of Turbo Protege Build
Big Front Brake Install using Wilwood Calipers
Factory Service Manuals and Familia Brochures - PDF
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To reiterate what's in my MX3 bushing writeup, I didn't use ANY grease on my ES bushings. And I didn't melt any grease grooves. I just bored the center with a sanding bit until I could barely press the stock metal sleeves in.
I only greased the inner diameter of the stock sleeves where the bolt makes contact.
It's been done for some time like this, and not a SINGLE squeak from my rear suspension. I believe those bushings don't come with grease because they don't NEED grease.
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everything *NEEDS* grease except clutch discs---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by lakersfan1It's been done for some time like this, and not a SINGLE squeak from my rear suspension. I believe those bushings don't come with grease because they don't NEED grease.
I've had some delays doing mine and goofed a lttle so that set me back too. I'm going to try to devote some time to it tomorrow if it's cool out.
Bill.
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Originally posted by billzieYou're probably mostly right. The black ES bushings are supposed to be graphite impregnated, the red ones are not. However, it doesn't hurt, especially for any metal to metal contacts.
I've had some delays doing mine and goofed a lttle so that set me back too. I'm going to try to devote some time to it tomorrow if it's cool out.
Bill.
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superpro . mine are currently on order. taking forever because the rear trailing link bushings are on backorder.
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