Parking Brake Cable

[brownj218]

Now the cable on my car is snapped....it was like that when i got it. Let's say one was to use the parking brake excessively (*cough* drifts).. is there any better one to get that would have less of a chance of snapping? I just don't know if they snap because of the type of use, or just because they get old. And yes...i know i asked this in another thread... but how much does it cost to replace a cable from the mechanics?

Thanks!!

[Mazda_Powered]

I'd replace them yourself, its a fairly basic job. Takes me around an hour to replace both of them. I'd recommend taking the whole cable system off so you can clean/grease the cables.

As for new cables, i would go new, not reman. Try calling around, most shops will probably charge 1.6-1.8 to replace both.

JACK.

[Silentbob343]

I'd replace them yourself, its a fairly basic job. Takes me around an hour to replace both of them. I'd recommend taking the whole cable system off so you can clean/grease the cables.

As for new cables, i would go new, not reman. Try calling around, most shops will probably charge 1.6-1.8 to replace both.

JACK.

Which cables do you buy? I bought a set of raybestos lines and they suck. One side was barely long enough, I still shudder to think how it will work with new pads and rotors, and the other side looked way off so I stuck with the old stock line.

[brownj218]

Well, i replaced the cable. After 2 hours and 5 blood blisters, not to mention about 5lbs of rust falling off from underneath the car, the job got done. The only thing is though, the cable is weak ass. It holds my car in the driveway...barely, and only if i crank the hell out of it. And even still, I dont want to crank that hard at risk of snapping the rear lines (i replaced the front).

The logical thing that makes sence to me is that the cable was snapped= ebrake not being pulled in a while= seized parts. Today i was cold, wet, and miserable, so i just went inside after replacing the line. But tomorrow i wanna go out there and unseize the parts.

Does anyone have a diagram of what part it actually is that would be seized? And what do i put on the part to lube it? And also, do I have to remove anything or can i just give it a spray of...whatever it is I'm going to use? I know the wheel will prob have to come off, but what about the brake components.

Thanks as always

[me109]

If you have rear disc brakes, the cable attaches to a lever on the caliper. That is what siezed for me. I shot it with PB Blaster with the car on all four wheels. Seems to have worked. Keep in mind that I have NO rust so you might need to do more to make it work.

[me19875]

If you have rear disc brakes, the cable attaches to a lever on the caliper. That is what siezed for me. I shot it with PB Blaster with the car on all four wheels. Seems to have worked. Keep in mind that I have NO rust so you might need to do more to make it work.

+1, i'm going to check that soon on mine. my car also has zero rust. i just replaced both of my frozen e-brake cables a few months ago and my drivers side rear is locking up in the cold weather. i'm assuming it's due to this.

[Silentbob343]

Well, i replaced the cable. After 2 hours and 5 blood blisters, not to mention about 5lbs of rust falling off from underneath the car, the job got done. The only thing is though, the cable is weak ass. It holds my car in the driveway...barely, and only if i crank the hell out of it. And even still, I dont want to crank that hard at risk of snapping the rear lines (i replaced the front).

The logical thing that makes sence to me is that the cable was snapped= ebrake not being pulled in a while= seized parts. Today i was cold, wet, and miserable, so i just went inside after replacing the line. But tomorrow i wanna go out there and unseize the parts.

Does anyone have a diagram of what part it actually is that would be seized? And what do i put on the part to lube it? And also, do I have to remove anything or can i just give it a spray of...whatever it is I'm going to use? I know the wheel will prob have to come off, but what about the brake components.

Thanks as always

There are two adjustments you need to make to get proper e-brake engagement. On is a hex screw in the caliper and the other is a screw on a threaded rod in the car under the console next to the ebrake lever.

[brownj218]

omgggg. I just fixed the ebrake. it was exatcly what you said me109, the lever in the drum. And holy crap, i was at it with a hammer for at least 1/2 an hour...it was so seized. I slapped a good bit of anti-seize on it, but I'm still not sure if that will seize again. It also messed up the brake shoes from being seized (wore half of one shoe almost gone), so i now have to replace those. Either way, I have never done my own work on my car, so I'm very satisified. I'm also suprised at how easy it was, it took less than 30 mins (not including un-seizing) to fully disassmble and reassemble all the components in the drum, including the ebrake mechanism.

About that ebrake mechanism in the drum (it's inbetween the shoes...kinda behind) does anyone know if you can get a replacement of that...or is that a jy part?