I'm having a problem with the rear discbrakes on my 91 LX. They aren't working.
The rear brake pads on the driver side are completed worn down. The pads on the rear passenger side have a good amount of meat left. This would lead me to believe that the passenger side caliper is stuck. But that would mean that the driver side caliper should still work, but it doesnt.
I bled the system, but the calipers don't squeeze the pads/rotors. There is still the surface rust on the rotors that hasn't worn away.
The front brake pads have good meat left. I bled the fronts and they seem to work fine. The rotors are shiny and to the metal through the surface rust.
This car has sat for about a year probably.
The driver side manual piston adjustment worked to pull the piston back in to accept new pads, but the the passenger side piston wouldn't adjust.
The brakes bled as expected, which is why I am ruling out the master cylinder. Pressure built up in the system and was released in normal fashion when I opened the bleeder screw.
I can definitely tell when driving that the rears aren't working. The pedal feel is somewhat mushy and pedal travel seems pretty long, and no amount of pumping makes the rears work.
I'm goig to take silicone lubricant and a C-clamp to the rear pistons to see if i can free them up. Do the proportioning valves on these vehicles go out very often? If so, what are the symptoms and remedies?
I'd rather not throw money at new calipers if there is something else I can try before hand. Any ideas? Thanks!
The rear brake pads on the driver side are completed worn down. The pads on the rear passenger side have a good amount of meat left. This would lead me to believe that the passenger side caliper is stuck. But that would mean that the driver side caliper should still work, but it doesnt.
I bled the system, but the calipers don't squeeze the pads/rotors. There is still the surface rust on the rotors that hasn't worn away.
The front brake pads have good meat left. I bled the fronts and they seem to work fine. The rotors are shiny and to the metal through the surface rust.
This car has sat for about a year probably.
The driver side manual piston adjustment worked to pull the piston back in to accept new pads, but the the passenger side piston wouldn't adjust.
The brakes bled as expected, which is why I am ruling out the master cylinder. Pressure built up in the system and was released in normal fashion when I opened the bleeder screw.
I can definitely tell when driving that the rears aren't working. The pedal feel is somewhat mushy and pedal travel seems pretty long, and no amount of pumping makes the rears work.
I'm goig to take silicone lubricant and a C-clamp to the rear pistons to see if i can free them up. Do the proportioning valves on these vehicles go out very often? If so, what are the symptoms and remedies?
I'd rather not throw money at new calipers if there is something else I can try before hand. Any ideas? Thanks!
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