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    Damn Brakes!!

    Ok,so I installed some SS brake lines this week, along with new pads and calipers, as well as 2 new steel brake lines for the front.

    SO I get to bleeding them, everything seems ok, I started with gravity bleeding em for a while, then I started bleeding at the rear right, go to rear left, front right, front left. so it all feels ok up to there, no more bubbles were comin out of the bleeders after a few tries. So I put everything back on, and start the car, and its like I've done nothing. The pedal goes almost to teh floor, at which point I get a little resistance, and a sort of squeak...If I pump the brakes fast I get a little more resistance out of them on the 2nd or 3rd pump. I've bled em a few times already, always with the same results...I can't seem to see any leaks anywhere. So if somebody could just toss an idea my way, or something, cuz I'm getting frickin peeved here because I've never had issues bleeding the brakes before.

    Thanks guys,
    Nick
    Posted By: Wheresthericego

    The BP crank is made out of invincible.
    sigpic

    #2
    Is the car fairly level when you're bleeding it? Was your pedal totally fine before you installed the lines?

    If you've bled the brakes thoroughly and are certain you've done nothing wrong, you might need to toss in a new master cylinder. Mileage on your current one?

    Clint
    1994 Mazda Protege DX (261Kmiles): Eibach springs, Tokico struts, Addco sway bars, massively ghetto-fabulous OBX camber bolts set to max. -ve, Energy Suspension LCA bushings, disc brake conversion, Carbotech XP8 (front) and AX6 (rear) pads, ATE Superblue, 15x7 Kazera KZ-M w/ 205/50/15 Avon Tech Ra (track), 15x6 Miata wheels w/ 195/50/15 Hankook Ventus R-S2 (street) and 14" stock wheels w/ Blizzak WS-60 (ice racing), A/C delete, BP swap, POS Pacesetter (w/ leak), 2.25" custom exhaust, cage and full SCCA ITA prep possibly in the works...

    1995 3000GT VR-4:Tein Flex, 332mm Stoptechs, manual steering conversion, custom brake lines with cockpit-mounted prop. valve, AWS delete, DSM sidemounts, full ATR single-exit, 13g/9b mismatch w/9psi WG springs, DN o2 housings, SAFC, AEM wideband, much more, etc.

    1987 BMW 325is:Bilsteins/H&R Springs, very solid motor mounts, 220k - stodgy daily driver

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      #3
      recheck your banjo fittings @ the SS line & the caliper. they need to be excessively tight to not leak. perhaps thats an issue.
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      1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




      I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
      he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

      Comment


        #4
        also invest in a pump clear tubing and a glass jar

        Comment


          #5
          i'm with smoke187, but i dont believe the pump is really necessary.

          my bleeding method
          - push pedal to the floor & hold
          - loosten the bleeder screw & watch it piss
          - tighten the bleeder screw
          - release the pedal
          - top up the master cylinder res after doing this twice
          - repeat a couple times and ALL the air will have been forced out

          I've found that doing this gets air out of the new calipers that otherwise would have been missed. and if you're a manual tranny, make sure you bleed the clutch release too. But if your pedal keeps going to the floor, there might possibly be a problem with your brake booster... just a thought.
          Last edited by JSLEnterprises; 06-12-2008, 04:58 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
            recheck your banjo fittings @ the SS line & the caliper. they need to be excessively tight to not leak. perhaps thats an issue.
            ... thats how you sheer them in two

            Comment


              #7
              if you master is old and the system has never been opened or bled sometimes the piston inside the master goes in to a place it hasnt seen in a long time.
              The piston can stay there taking away hydraulic pressure even though the pedal returns after pushing on it.Or the seal inside gets damaged.
              BTW if its rear disc and you have those rear calipers that require adjusting up after install make sure you tightened them up them back them off slightly.
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                #8
                Its 3 pumps and hold on the third when bleeding.
                Beater=/= Sleeper

                Originally posted by kozzman555
                kitty, you are a hilarious woman
                Originally posted by HopelessCow
                there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
                Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

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                  #9
                  ok, well its drums in the back, and I have a clear tube and glass jar, thats how I was bleeding them.
                  There are no leaks at the banjo bolts
                  The master has an indeterminate amount of KMs on it, probably the original one. How would I be able to tell if its the master for sure, or the brake booster?
                  Posted By: Wheresthericego

                  The BP crank is made out of invincible.
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    when ur bleeding ...does each bleeder screw "shoot out" brake fuid with plenty of pressure using Kitty's method?
                    If your system went empty during the install you may have air in the master
                    in which case it may need to be bled.
                    Powered by ACME

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                      #11
                      umm...well it shot out on some of em, but mostly I tried to just open the screw a bit so I don't have an explosion of fluid. and yeah it went dry at some point cuz I'm a dolt, but doesn't just letting em drip for a while fill it back up again? After it went dry I started all over again
                      Posted By: Wheresthericego

                      The BP crank is made out of invincible.
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jumpncrash View Post
                        umm...well it shot out on some of em, but mostly I tried to just open the screw a bit so I don't have an explosion of fluid. and yeah it went dry at some point cuz I'm a dolt, but doesn't just letting em drip for a while fill it back up again? After it went dry I started all over again
                        if it went dry odds are the master needs bleeding.
                        Powered by ACME

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                          #13
                          so how would I go about bleeding the master then? I looked on google and all I found were bench bleeding methods...is there any other way without taking it out of the car and getting the special tool?
                          Posted By: Wheresthericego

                          The BP crank is made out of invincible.
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I use a vaccum pump for bleeding the master cylinders and clutch slave. Works ****ing wonders
                            I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

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                              #15
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