is this worth the 12$? or is it a pos?
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front strut tower bar
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front strut tower bar
91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
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You get a cheap product for a cheap price......
Btw, try posting in the right section. This is related to suspension, not engine/drivetrain.-------------------------
'91 LX
'03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
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Originally posted by pigeonwell if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound
while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height
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whats the difference from a cheep 1 and an expensive 1 other then the price? they both look the same to me.....91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
Powered by MegaSquirt I PCB3, Tuned by Lex
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Originally posted by redfoxwhats the difference from a cheep 1 and an expensive 1 other then the price? they both look the same to me.....Pewter Silver 92 DX 5 Spd 1.8L SOHC
-Stainless steel MagnaFlow exhaust with a double walled tip.
-205/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE910 rubber
-B&M Short Throw Shifter
-MX-3 GS front seats
-Front an Rear upper strut braces
(LOOKING FOR A CAI FOR MY SOHC !!!!)
(GT-X on the way as I type)
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One piece strut bars are usually the best. The one on the ebay auction is probably hollow and thus very weak. A solid bar is needed to stiffen the suspension as much as possible.-------------------------
'91 LX
'03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
-------------------------
Originally posted by pigeonwell if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound
while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height
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Dosen't nescessarily have to be a solid bar, just good sidewall thickness, good material and welded as one piece.
The main drawbacks of the 2 pc bars are that they have 2 weak points (4 if you count the paper thin mounting plates) i have never been a fan of the adjustable style endlinks. Thats where flex and deflection will happen...i just can't see these joints being able to handle not only left/right flex but twisting flex too. A one piece bar just makes more sense to me, from a hardcore duty POV and a racers POV.
The rear bar is not quite as critical on a Protege, as the nature of the sedan desgin provides a decent amount of rigidity back there. But a 323 would require a good one piece bar.
Your free to choose whatever you want on your car, but thats not even a semi serious street bar....
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Originally posted by MazdaRacerDosen't nescessarily have to be a solid bar, just good sidewall thickness, good material and welded as one piece.-------------------------
'91 LX
'03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
-------------------------
Originally posted by pigeonwell if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound
while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height
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Originally posted by Identity_XWouldn't a solid bar be much better than a hollow one? I mean, a solid bar is much more sturdy compared to a lightweight hollow piece.1991 Mazda 323 GTR Sedan
MODS:
GTR motor swap, F&R Familia strut bars, MX-3 Rear Lower strut tie bar, GTX front bumper, GTX grill, EDM headlights & corners, EDM 323 rear garnish, EDM spoiler, EGT sideskirts, MX-3 seats, GTX steering wheel, EGT glass sunroof, WRX hood scoop (functional!!), and other things that take too much space to list.....
TO DO LIST:
EDM/JDM rear bumper
EDM/JDM power folding mirrors
Repaint car
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Originally posted by Identity_XWouldn't a solid bar be much better than a hollow one? I mean, a solid bar is much more sturdy compared to a lightweight hollow piece.When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
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does anyone got a pic of a one piece bar vs a 2 piece? I know what the 2 piece looks like from the ebay pic, and I was just curious.
On top of that isn't an 'A' frame strut bar even better since it ties in the firewall?
I have seen these for RX7's, couldn't they be ,ade to fit our cars by rewelding on the appropriate mounting plates with the correct holes?
Dunno its late and I have these crazy ass ideas............
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Sure, mounting to the firewall would help, but have you seen our firewall? not very strong....which is why it's not done. Have a buddy stomp hard on the brakes while you watch the brake booster and master cylinder flex up and down.....
I've always thought that if you could cut holes in the firewall and extend the bar to the big ole 2" round main dash brace, then it would be of some benefit. Lots of custom work tho....not sure if there is a clear path to that dash brace either.
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Actuallt if you could mount it to the unibody under the windshield you might be able to hit a solid structure, but that will be more work than it is worth, and welding, not bolting.
unless you welded a structural bar across the firewall then sectioned a STB to that... once again more work than it is worth.When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
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