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Help! Clicking sound when turning at low speeds

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    #16
    Originally posted by Hawaiiannights
    Great to make things worse now I hear the sound coming from the passenger side....****...now I gotta go back to sears and have the right one changed..... at least its not as bad as the sound that was coming from the left side before I replaced it.... I think i'll fix the AC first.... Is this like a common thing with the 1st gens? seems alot of people have messed up axles.....

    Also stupid question, what is a tie rod end? is it part of the axle and replaced with it or is it something totally different.... also the Sears guys reffer to the axle as a half shaft...same thing right? And the CV boot is replaced as well with a new axle? Sorry as you can see my other car is very new so not too sure about all these problems with my 92 beater..( I mean project car.) But i'm glad for this forum..thanks in advance guys!
    the tie rod is attached to the outer edges of your rack and pinion (steering rack) and connects to the spindle. It is one of the things they adjust when they give you an alignment (sp).

    Just have them replace both axles. Have them check the belts also. You don't want that water pump to alternator belt to brake.

    Bruce
    photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

    dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

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      #17
      Originally posted by bruce95fmla
      the tie rod is attached to the outer edges of your rack and pinion (steering rack) and connects to the spindle. It is one of the things they adjust when they give you an alignment (sp).

      Just have them replace both axles. Have them check the belts also. You don't want that water pump to alternator belt to brake.

      Bruce
      Thanks, I already had the left axle replaced but I still hear a clicking sound from the right side even though the CV boot looks intact, so am going to replace that next. The waterpump and belts have been replaced recently so looks ok.
      But now i'm having a weired problem when starting the car, sometimes I have to crank it for like 30 seconds before it starts. is it bad plugs you think? it started happening right after I added some fuel additive and oil additive and then filled the tank with cheapo 87 octane gas...

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        #18
        Well my A/C went out like three or so years ago. The compressor seized, and I never got around to replacing it. I still haven't decided if I want to take out the system completely or fix it. Taking out all that **** shaves off a good amount of weight. That and you can actually use the cooling coil from inside the car as an oil cooler for the engine.


        100 for installation? Dammmmmmmmmmm. That's messed up. You can replace both of them in 45 minutes! Save yourself a couple hundred next time and do it yourself. It's not hard to do.
        Bryan
        MOCC MEMBER

        -"Mean people rule."

        Originally posted by midnightblue97
        Thought the oil pump was run off the timing belt??

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          #19
          ok I got a Q... there is a boot on the bottom side of mine.. its not on the axel its under the arm thingy and its busted... what do I do on that one?

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            #20
            i thin that woudl be your lower ball joint asylum
            Pewter Silver 92 DX 5 Spd 1.8L SOHC
            -Stainless steel MagnaFlow exhaust with a double walled tip.
            -205/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza RE910 rubber
            -B&M Short Throw Shifter
            -MX-3 GS front seats
            -Front an Rear upper strut braces

            (LOOKING FOR A CAI FOR MY SOHC !!!!)
            (GT-X on the way as I type)

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              #21
              Lower ball joints are a pain to replace too unless you have some serious air tools. I just had both of mine replaced, one by a mechanic friend, other by myself and a friend. When I replaced the second one, we had to torch the bolts on the A-arm, take out the retaining bolt on the knuckle, drive a fork and a chisel between the knuckle and the balljoint, and hammer and pry that mofo. Whole process took about an hour and a pint of blood, and I totally ruined a pair of pants. But on the bright side, the balljoint itself is really cheap. I'd recommend you get one with a grease fitting, instead of a sealed and pre-packed deal, since the grease-fitting one can be regreased and repacked as needed.
              I don't need a new car- this one still runs.



              Mods to date (5.22.04): CAI, MSD Blaster SS coil, APC cone filter, 2" exhaust from manifold back, 3A Racing performance muffler w/7" tip, dashboard graphics, new gas tank (painted red).

              Up Next: body kit, wing, paint, interior, sound system, short shifter

              Future: engine swap, NOS

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                #22
                I also have a bad 1/2 shaft and yes a 1/2 shaft/axle shaft/cv shaft are all the same thing. My shaft also clicks when turning. i just keep pumping grease in the boot until i can afford to fix the shaft. I found a shaft w/ a lifetime warranty at advance auto parts for $60. If a shaft is clicking, get it fixed asap. If you put it off too long, you can rip the housing off the trans, ive seen pics of it. Until you get it fixed, go easy and slow around turns. anyone know of headers for a 92 DX SOHC??

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