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Kev's JDM 1997 Protege

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    i love those OEM ground straps!
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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      I never knew they were there, haha. Quite convenient.

      HTC Droid DNA

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        Replaced both outer tie rod ends and the driver side ball joint (passenger side replaced when I did the axles). I also discovered some plastic shield thing that goes over the passenger side of the steering rack that got caught in the bellows of the rack. That may have actually been the source of the clicking sound when turning and not the other components. That same shield fell down on the '98 as well, strange. Either way the tie rods and ball joint needed replacing and I'm fairly certain the unnerving sounds will no longer be with me.

        So total front end work to date: swapped eBay strutbar for Mazdaspeed bar, Cusco lower tie bar, new axles (both sides), new outer tie rods (both sides), new ball joints (both sides).

        Edit: My fairly poor attempt at photoshopping what I think copper calipers would look like. The center caps have a blue ring around them and they'll have to be done in copper as well, not sure how I'll do that though.

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        I'm sure someone else could do a better shop, but I think this gets the point across enough.
        Last edited by irishkev90; 09-15-2013, 03:50 PM.

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          Finally decided to start disassembling the calipers. Is there any way to get the hand brake arm/lever off the rear caliper? That's the only part I'm stuck on, everything else came apart fairly easily.

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          HTC Droid DNA

          Edit: Calipers are disassembled except for the above arm on both rear calipers. Also, Advance decided to send me one rear caliper with the hand brake cable bracket and one without. What the hell? And the one without the bracket has a cad plated banjo bolt while the other is just stainless. I should have opened everything when I get them instead of just one front and one rear. Oh well. Advance will be getting a call tomorrow and if they can't get me a bracket then I can order one from Jim Ellis.
          Last edited by irishkev90; 09-18-2013, 09:16 PM.

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            I'll have to see if Harbor Freight has any long reach snap ring pliers so I can fully disassemble the rear calipers. I also ordered a new bracket from Jim Ellis since Advance was useless.

            I'll be going with Pearl Copper powder coat. It looks like this (not my caliper):
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            I think I'm going to try and smooth my calipers to the finish doesn't look as rough and wavy. The blue ring on the center caps of the wheels will probably be painted with a metallic copper spray paint. I've read that usual clear coats can dull the finish of metallic paints, so I'll probably just use some wax to keep them looking nice. Apparently floor polish works well too.

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              Just put in my order for the 21.5mm AWR rear sway bar. I was finally able to get a little bit of rotation out of the car over the past weekend, but it required going uncomfortably fast around an incredibly tight, 180* turn coming down the mountain. Hopefully a 2.5mm larger bar will make it easier to get the back end to wiggle out a little bit as well as help control with body roll. Also ordering a K&N filter so I can get back to work on the intake.

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                Started smoothing out one of my calipers to see how difficult it would be. The verdict? Not very. Here's a few photos to show what I'm doing.

                I flattened out the bump on both ends of the caliper with a die grinder.

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                Then I used a metal file to smooth the front arch and even out all the low/high spots. Then went over that with two sanding blocks, one with 80 grit and another with 220 grit.

                Work in progress driver side on the left, untouched passenger side on the right.

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                Close ups:

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                That's it for tonight. I couldn't find any relays this weekend for the headlight rewiring, so it looks like I'll be able to do the calipers tomorrow instead.

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                  Typically store bought calipers dont have the E brake brackets included. Ive learned that after buying and installing dozens of new calipers on customers cars. 90% of the time you have to swap those brackets over from the original one. Or even have to go to a junkyard and get the parts when doing a rear disc from drum swap. I dunno why they do it, but that is the norm.
                  ~PaTricK~


                  -Current car's-
                  ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
                  What are you driving?

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                    That's strange because one came with that bracket and the other without.

                    And according the the box it came in, I wouldn't even be able to use the old brackets if I wanted full core credit. "Other Critical Return Items include: Parking Brake Lever, Cable Bracket or Springs as may apply."

                    HTC Droid DNA

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                      Same process as before, just a little more detailed. The back of the caliper is a pain to clean up. I bought a 249 piece rotary tool accessory kit from Harbor Freight and it's worked great for some of the awkward areas of the caliper. One problem is that I have a battery operated Dremel, so work time is limited.

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                      Either "Mazda" or "Mazdaspeed" will go on this arch. I was originally planning on decals, but the diamond bit Dremel tools got me thinking; I could engrave "MAZDASPEED" in that arch and when I get them back from powder coat I can fill it in with white paint. Yet another idea just to be different. I still need to smooth out the recessed area above it.

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                      Comment


                        Originally posted by irishkev90 View Post
                        And according the the box it came in, I wouldn't even be able to use the old brackets if I wanted full core credit. "Other Critical Return Items include: Parking Brake Lever, Cable Bracket or Springs as may apply."
                        If they didnt supply you with one, then why would you have to return one? Obviously your set wouldnt fall into "as may apply".

                        ive dealt with sending literally hundreds of cores. Really all they care about is if the ones you bought had a bracket, then they want a bracket returned. Everything else generally doesnt matter as it gets replaced.

                        I love how much your grinding your calipers down. Ive shaved the knubs and some nasty casting's that have been left. But have never thought of going all out and actually smoothing them.
                        Last edited by monoxidechild; 09-24-2013, 10:57 AM.
                        ~PaTricK~


                        -Current car's-
                        ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
                        What are you driving?

                        Comment


                          Thanks. The only part that sucks is my work schedule. Only get the weekends to really work on them and I only have one done so far. I've applied for a first shift position which should help if I get the spot.

                          And I didn't know the other caliper didn't have it until after I brought the cores back. Stupid me only checked one from and one rear caliper at the time and I just happened to open the good rear one. Oh well, live and learn I suppose.

                          HTC Droid DNA

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                            Sway bar is now "Awaiting Shipment." Can't wait for it to get here.

                            HTC Droid DNA

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                              Also bought myself a variable speed, corded Dremel. Let the progress not be interrupted with dead batteries!

                              HTC Droid DNA

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                                I think this thing is as close to perfect as I'm willing to go. I know the sandblasting process will rough it up a bit anyway, but not nearly as bad as stock. It took me like three weekends (no ambition to do it during the week because of work so more like three to four days) and it was an experiment to see what techniques worked best and which Dremel attachments to use. I smoothed out whatever could be easily seen when looking at them on the car. I paid particular attention the large faces on the top and outside of the caliper since those are most noticeable as well as the top of the piston cylinder. I evened out the inner half, but didn't go as crazy because it'll be harder to see.

                                Smoothed driver side and untouched passenger side.

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                                I also tried smoothing out some of the transitions between different areas. Like the little step from the top of the cylinder to the banjo bolt hole.

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                                And this area.

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