New resonator pipe came in today. Need to get some exhaust flanges to make it fit properly so I can replace the Magnaflow thing I have now. Next paycheck should be able to get me the second catalytic converter pipe and I'll hopefully have a mostly stock sounding exhaust, not including the Mazdaspeed muffler. Should be a fun weekend.
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Kev's JDM 1997 Protege
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Originally posted by irishkev90 View PostFor anyone who questioned my intermediate shaft bracket, the car made it through a 3000 mile trip to Miami and back with absolutely zero problems.
If engineers designed car parts to last <30k miles everything would be built like a 90's Hyundai.
It doesn't have to end in a catastrophic failure, hell a minor radial/angular alignment issues will increase bearing wear that isn't going to pop up till a few years and 50k miles down the road.
It's great its working for you, but it's not the optimal solution that an oem bracket+shaft combo would have been.Beater=/= Sleeper
Originally posted by kozzman555kitty, you are a hilarious womanOriginally posted by HopelessCowthere is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
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---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by Kitty View PostIf engineers designed car parts to last <30k miles everything would be built like a 90's Hyundai.
It doesn't have to end in a catastrophic failure, hell a minor radial/angular alignment issues will increase bearing wear that isn't going to pop up till a few years and 50k miles down the road.
It's great its working for you, but it's not the optimal solution that an oem bracket+shaft combo would have been.
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ya know.... id like to think that a thick AL bracket could take the force of the halfshaft..... i might suggest having rocketman cast you one. that'd be really neat!! (and lightweight)---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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This car is almost as tail happy as I want it to be. A few more tweaks to the suspension and it should be perfect. Or as perfect as I can get without professional equipment. I'll tighten the rear sway bar when it stops raining and see how that works for a start.
I've started to work on getting the ES spindles ready to go on the car for the brake upgrade. I still have to get that lateral link bolt out of both rear spindles. I hope the one on my car isn't as stuck as these. Then I'll clean them up similar to how I'm doing the calipers and paint them before installing everything. The driver side front bearing needs to be replaced, but since I work at the parts store, I'll probably just get all four. Oh, and I'll finally get those SS brake lines installed that have been sitting around for the past five or six years.
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Day three or four and the bolt is still in there. I cut the lateral link end and bushings off each side and cut the threaded end off the bolt (it was bent and there was no way it was getting through the spindle) so there's about a 3/4" nub on the threaded end. Got the hub and dust shield off (and hammered out the ABS sensor) and got it in a 20 ton press, but the damn thing still wouldn't budge. Heat didn't help, neither did trying to spin it with an impact or breaker bar. I've got it sitting in a vice now and soaked with penetrating fluid. Running out of ideas, but I do have one left. I'm wondering if drilling a hole through the center of the bolt will help relieve pressure on the spindle holes.
Any other suggestions?
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That's why I've been taking my time with it. Plus I'm learning what works and doesn't work with this one so I know what to do with the other one. Maybe it's just me, but that setup seems like a poor design. I'm thinking one bolt for each lateral link (instead of one for both) would have been a better way to go.
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mine took 3 heat cycles with an oxy torch and alot of beating to come free. get some good heat on it.---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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I might have to bring them to a machine shop. I tried drilling the out, which would have worked perfectly, but we don't have drill bits big enough. The first bolt is completely destroyed. I tried cutting out the center section, but I could only get halfway through the bolt. I don't have anything small enough to get in there and cut the rest of the way. Oh well, this bolt is beyond my abilities.
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Got a new battery, but I think the alternator is on its way out.
In other news, the Viper alarm system doesn't like to let the car start when you first turn the key. I unplugged the starter circuit and it starts perfectly, but the alarm goes off every few minutes while driving. Plugged the circuit back in and no more alarm, but start refusal is back. I'd like to do away with the remote start and even the siren and just keep the remote locks and start interlock if possible, but I don't know.
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