z5 turbo finished.. some problems i need opinions on....

[pigeon]

Just kidding. Don't do that.

quit lying, you're not kidding

[mike_moss]

I will not be held responsible for someone taking a post on the Internet seriously.

[pigeon]

I will not be held responsible for someone taking a post on the Internet seriously.

hahaha, im playing

[TwinCam16]

i too have turbo charged my z5 and i had the same overheating problem. which caused me to blow my head gasket and warp the head, and because of the increased temperatures the #1 piston melted on me. what i found was that it only gave me the overheating problem after i hooked up the turbo to the cooling system. I have abandoned that project and i am now saving towards the 1.8, i have some mad ideas for one of those, i just love to see Mr. Patrick Sean-Tiu Santiago protege

[bruce95fmla]

This is where it was leaking before i changed the o ring.. now i'm assuming its leaking in the same spot but i will know more tomorrow when i can do a cold start...

That my friend is not cool..

Have you tried some BP injectors yet. ...

You may have to order some aftermarket O-rings. (miata ones may be an idea.)

Let me know where you get them from. I will need some more than likely for my GTR injectors.

good luck.

[pigeon]

tim, even after you fix it
dont drive the car

wait till it gets to a dyno

seriously, i still cant get over how ****ty essential speed is for letting that car leave the shop without problems resolved... but now i guess its just your problem

soon as you get the leak resolved, take care of the over heating...
and then get the car on a dyno

after hearing that guy from barbados **** his engine because he attempted to boost it, its probably best if you took every precautionary measure.

is the leak at idle?
is the leak still that bad even after you changed the o-ring?
I would check the area where the o-ring sits, to see if it is damaged, as well as the part that it makes contact with in the fuel rail, and see if that is damaged or worn to the point that fuel is leaking past it.

Also, invest in a fuel pressure gauge. While the vehicle is idling, turn the fuel pressure back down to 43.5 psi... (or something close to that) (but DONT drive like this)
Maybe your fuel pressure is increased a whole lot, but your duty cycle has been left the same.... causing a build up of pressure at that point in the fuel path?

Or it could be a combination of high pressure, and bad sealing between the injector and rail.

If that doesent work, try swapping the faulty injector with another identical one in your fuel rail. With a brand new o-ring.

See if the leak jumps to another injector, or stays at that same one. That'll let you know whether or not the fuel rail or before, is at fault.... or if it is the injector itself

After you do all of these things, you will have a lot more info on helping to narrow down the problem, so even if this stuff didnt fix it, the next step will be a fuel rail/injector swap, at oem pressure... that MUST fix it.

Then from that point, take things a step at a time. Increase the fuel pressure, see if the leak starts again.
If it doesent, it was a faulty rail/injector.

If it does, even with a different rail and another set of injectors, then you have to find another engine to swap injectors and fuel rail from.

Maybe find out if the BP fuel rail will fit on it, with BPT injectors?
^^ lots of the first gen guys would know if the BPT injectors will fit in the BP fuel rail, and bruce scott would know whether or not the BP rail is interchangable with the Z5 rail

Anyways, these are the steps I would take if I had this problem.

Soon as this gets fixed, move onto your overheating problem.
Does your turbo have a coolant line and oil line running to it, or just an oil line?
Get a thermostat that opens up at a lower temperature, and find out of your radiator is working properly... or if its all jammed up with scale and the fins are all collapsed and whatnot....

A thermostat that opens up at a different temp, and a properly working OEM rad will fix the problem.
If it doesent, then start looking in the direction of the water pump.

THEN from there get the car tuned on a dyno properly.
Properly meaning, optimizing air/fuel at different part throttle positions, and full throttle positions.
After all this stuff is done, the car should be alright... if it didnt already get damaged from the times its already overheated.

But to tune, you're going to need more parts... like

a fuel pressure gauge (either the kind under the hood, or the kind in the car... even tho both is nice)
a form of adjusting fuel values at different throttel positions.... usually stand alone computers, or a greddy e-manage...
but you might be able to get away with a rrfpr, and a greddy emanage... that way you'll have some form of fuel control in closed and open loop
then obviously dynotime with a wideband... a boost gauge... boost controller... borrow a timing light from someone.... for longeviety... a turbo-timer

oh ya, and an INTERCOOLER!!!
hahaha

Its possible to get by without all the other parts i said and without tuning, but the result would be your car... which is stressful!
Doing it right, can get kinda pricey.

I bet that your car can hit 140hp at the wheels without internal engine modification....

[bruce95fmla]

I think Pigeon did a good job of explaining the above. I think you really need to work on your tuning. I really hope you have an idea of how and what you are tuning. I don't want to seem insulting, but I don't know if you did much research on turbo installs.

I don't know if the BP fuel rail will fit on the Z5, but I don't see why you can't use the injectors.
I also don't know if you upped your fuel pressure. If you upped your fuel pressure to much maybe that may have blown your IJ O-rings.
As I said before, you may need to upgrade your injectors. I think it is definetly time to do so. Also If you get used injectors, make sure you get them cleaned and mapped from a injector cleaning company.

As pigeon said. A dyno is a very good idea, done with a wideband O2.
I have really been taking my time with my 2nd gen turbo set up/collection. I am still learning and there are a lot of things I still don't know about this whole turbo set up. I hope I can get dyno tuning done, but there aren't that many places in the immediate area that I can go to ...

Well if you need help or suggestions we are here and everyone will help.

[TwinCam16]

the fuel rail will not fit directly on the Z5 because the fuel rail for the BP and for the 1.6 have 3 bolts to secure it while the Z5 only has 2. the injectors however do work but it would be a case where u need to play with the fuel pressure at idle cause then the car is gonna run too rich off boost, and then when the boost kicks in it is gonna be an incredible kick. that is all cool but that is at the cost of drivability, and also gas milage.

[Clappy]

the overheating is solved.. the rad stem was punctured, and a new rad put in.. no more over heating.

as far as the injectors, go, i'm going to be working on that today and tomorrow.. i hate not having a garage bay to work in... I thank you all for the advice, its printing off now as i type this, and i'll be studying it like a mofo

[Clappy]

ok so i replaced another o-ring today.. and ran the car to see if there were any immediate leaks.. there are none.

While i was revving the engine, i was listening to my CAI, when i rev it you can hear it sucking air.. when i rev it, let go, then rev again, it sounds like its choking, plus i hear a click when i rev and it sounds like its coming from my BOV. now after i let go of the second rev, thats when my car starts to chug.. Could it be sucking too much air? not enough air? i wish i could record the sound so you'd know what i was talking about a lot easier.

[pigeon]

you never said whether or not the fuel leak was solved

EDIT: im an idiot, nevermind

[pigeon]

is your BOV working?
when the throttle snaps shut, is it releasing any pressure? (Pshh)

When is it chugging, on the decrease from the rev...
or after it revved when it's trying to maintain an idle?

What is your idle set at?
Is there any black smoke comingout of the tail pipe during these events....

When you're trying to diagnose problems, never rule out anything unless you're sure.
Don't assume that it's necessarily an air problem

Borrow a digi-cam from someone with a movie mode.... and video tape it revving up and down and try to make it make those funny sounds.
If you dont have webspace to host the video, email it to me and i'll post it up for you.

[pigeon]

The only things in your air flow path that could possibly make the engine chug is the MAF, BOV, and the IAC

It sounds like a running rich issue, or the ECU doing something crazy to compensate...
Do you have a check engine light?

[Clappy]

Engine sound Right click, save as... to get the file.

The inside of my muffler is black.. and kinda wet.. i haven't looked back there in quite some time so i dunno when its from.. could be just dirty.. the exhaust coming from my muffler doesn't smell weird..

its hard to get my BOV to release. i can only seem to do it when i'm driving and the tranny shifts.. i can hear it then.

There isn't a check engine light until my car is ready to stall.. then it flashes along with the chugging..

[pigeon]

it sounds like its revving fine for the most part....

tell me if i have it right...:

idling ---> everything is good
rev UP (engine rpm increases) ---> everything is good
rev DOWN (engine rpm is decreasing to idle) ---> everything is good until idle,
as it tries to stabilize, it dips
below the idle rpm.... then
chuggs, then jumps, THEN
eventually stabilizes

is this right?