Diagnose this problem...95 Mazda Protege, spits and sputters under accelleration....

[pigeon]

yep
well i already changed the pump to a walbro pump, but im going to check the tank for dents or to see if baffles are broken, or if SOMETHING is wrong

cause the pump works
and i'll have to make sure the lines are sitting properly

[mannydingo]

I will re-post this everywhere I saw a post with people having similar problems: Ok, upon turning the car on, my car would sputter, try to stall, sometimes just turn off, etc. It would then get better as the car picked up speed. As soon as I had to stop and go again it would do it again. I had to wave cars on. I put a computer scanner to the connector to see why the Check Engine Light was on and it showed P0100. That code means MAF Circuit Malfunction. If you have that code and those same symptoms, my friend, you have just found the answer. It is the Mass Air Flow sensor. I replaced it and the problem went away 100%. It is a dealer only part and costs over $200 so look for a used one. I know this is not going to help those that don't get the code but it's going to help someone that has the same problem. The little filament ,or whatever it is, was completely missing from the very center of the sensor. It's like a little "feeler" that senses the air and sends the info to the computer. The fact that the computer would not put some default adjustment really annoys me. The car should not become almost undriveable. No more Check Engine Light (CEL).

[Tw!tchb!tch]

Hey guys, just picked up a 95 Protege with a 1.5 in it and while driving it home it started to spit and sputter under any kind of mild or hard acceleration. The guy I bought it from said it had been doing it a while. He put new plug, wires and even a distibutor on it, but it didnt really help. It idles fine, nice and smooth, no missing and you can free rev it without a problem.....but as soon as you start rowing through the gears (5 speed) it acts like crap. If you keep it at a constant speed, you're fine....hills or accelleration....bucks and carrys on. Let me know what you all think....thanks in advance......

My POS mazda 1.5 is doing this also . I hate this ****ing car.

Did you find the problem ??

[RicardoS]

I installed a racing pump about 2 months ago and cannot go under a quarter tank, the adjustable fuel pressure regulator jumps up and down like crazy when below a quarter tank. I think the "universal" pump is not low enough in the tank. I have the same problems in regards to "bucking" and "sputter" when fuel level is below a quarter tank, The pump and strainer are smaller than stock and began to stall on hard right turns at low gas levels. My average is 9 1/2 gallons everytime I fill up to keep it at a safe level. So New2imports, I suggest all of the above. Go to the local auto store, get some electrical cleaner, it's similiar to carb cleaner but safer for MAF's. Directions are on the can. You can also use the cleaner on the EGR. The EGR is located on the intake manifold on the driver side. Also could be and most likely the fuel filter. both the fuel filter and EGR are located in the same area. These suggestions are not as involved as you may think.

[pureliquidhw]

I had the same issue. The car would rock and sputter under and mild to hard acceleration. I replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, and when I was going to do the fuel filter, i noticed that the rubber intake pipe was cracked. I went and bought an OEM replacement for way too much from autozone and it worked fine. If you do find that it is the pipe, look into after market ones. They might cost a bit more, but will be worth it (it would have been for me at least.)

[mannydingo]

Yes, sir. That definitely is another culprit that happens often as that hose gets old and brittle.

[pigeon]

I installed a racing pump about 2 months ago and cannot go under a quarter tank, the adjustable fuel pressure regulator jumps up and down like crazy when below a quarter tank. I think the "universal" pump is not low enough in the tank. I have the same problems in regards to "bucking" and "sputter" when fuel level is below a quarter tank, The pump and strainer are smaller than stock and began to stall on hard right turns at low gas levels. My average is 9 1/2 gallons everytime I fill up to keep it at a safe level. So New2imports, I suggest all of the above. Go to the local auto store, get some electrical cleaner, it's similiar to carb cleaner but safer for MAF's. Directions are on the can. You can also use the cleaner on the EGR. The EGR is located on the intake manifold on the driver side. Also could be and most likely the fuel filter. both the fuel filter and EGR are located in the same area. These suggestions are not as involved as you may think.

Its cause its an RX7 pump that we got. We just need to mount it so the pickup is lower in the tank, and the problem will go away. Sadly im lazy, so I just make sure I keep it above 1/2 tank.. lol

[RicardoS]

Totally!!! Lazy. Figured the same thing after looking at the unstable fuel pressure on my afpr. One of these days I'll lower it!!! I'm taking some time off so I don't loose my other girl!!!

[pigeon]

hahaha
i will lower it eventually as well... maybe
haha

you should though if you're boosted, or going to be boosted.. because any starvation could really **** you up

[J Cotton]

rotor was the problem for misfire on #1 cylb

I had the same problem that you have. I just fixed it today after about a month of awful driving and shaking my exhaust loose.

I was the dist. rotor. I had changed it nearly a month ago. So I started over in order to nail the problem before we get another Colorado winter. (hopefully not like last winter)

So, start over and recheck all the work that has been done so far. I wish you well!

[96ProtegeDXBlue]

Mine started after I did a quick wash down of the lower block and part of the head. Water must have gotten in the distributor area creating a short circuit under certain load conditions. This had happened to me once before and it went away after the water eventually evaporated. I'm now looking for a way to open the distributor (not just the cap, which is dry) and speed the drying without:
1) having to reset the timing
2) breaking anything
3) losing any parts

I had noticed some misfiring under select loads before the wash down. Perhaps it was almost time for a new rotor and cap anyway???

[96ProtegeDXBlue]

No combination of my two sets of caps and rotors worked. A few days later (no driving in this time period) I tried again this time lightly sanding the crud at the tip of the rotor. It worked! I don't know if it was the time (to dry) or the cleaning of the rotor...