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    #16
    It's been done into miata's before and by the people that have done it, it's said to be harder than dropping in a ford 5.0. I don't know about either but this is what I've heard.

    <marquee>'97 Tan LX 5-speed-Clear corners, "poor mans" grill, 15in. Gunmetal/Polished Konig Holes covered with Dunlop GT Qualifiers, B&M short shifter installed and lovin it, custom leather black leather boot, MazdaSpeed Shift knob, Eibach Pro-Kit, Custom cold air intake Head Unit-Pioneer DEH-3500MP Speakers-Sony Xplod XS-V1621(3-way)6.5s(Front Doors) Infinity 652i(2-way)6.5s(Rear Doors) Pioneer TS-A6990R(5-way)6x9s(Rear Deck) Amps-Kenwood KAC-7201/Pioneer GM-X352 Subs-2-JL 12 W3s in Dual box, redone LED 3rd brake light(doesn't look like crap anymore). More I.C.E. on the way.</marquee>
    Formerly '90 White Miata w/ 2 8" Laser Blue stripes
    I hate the short nose crankshaft. It took my car away from me.

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      #17
      It's hardly bolt in.
      [img]www.nocamzmotorsport.co.nz/rx-323-fwd.jpg[/img]



      Last edited by Eccentric; 12-27-2003, 07:45 PM.
      Quote from eBay
      "with no knowlege of cars.he,armed only with the skills of an 18th century blacksmith,removed the front axles and wheel bearings,damaging both in the process"

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        #18
        Originally posted by bp 1.8
        its not that difficult honestly. the rotary engine will bolt right up to a 1.8L trans. you need to run an aftermarket pcm, and make a custom header, and the rest is just hooking up the throttle cable and installing the oil cooler and other little things.
        you guys overestimate the complexity of a rotary swap.

        hahahaha....

        where you going to put the driveshaft? how about the rear diff?

        Custom floorpans are fun
        "Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time"
        -93 MR2, 129 ES
        ClubProtege.com Tech Articles

        Originally posted by WTF
        Remember low compression makes more space for AIR, HEEELLOOOO!

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          #19
          yeah these things always sound easy in peoples head, but when it comes to it, its fuggin hard as hell.
          .....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...



          186.08whp
          225.94wtq
          torque monster!!!!
          dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
          http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
          http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid

          blahblahblahblahblahblah

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            #20
            Originally posted by THEGOLDPRO
            yeah these things always sound easy in peoples head, but when it comes to it, its fuggin hard as hell.
            Well they fail to think about the custom cv axles, flywheel, oil pan/oil pick (or dry sump), exhaust going right where the cv axle has to be. Then lets not forget it's in there but you have to make it run so you have the wiring/testing and hunting down bizzare problems like; why does my tach go dead when I accelerate hard. All these things slip your mind when you are dreaming of big smokey burnouts, how cool everyone will think you are for having a rotary powered Portege.
            Quote from eBay
            "with no knowlege of cars.he,armed only with the skills of an 18th century blacksmith,removed the front axles and wheel bearings,damaging both in the process"

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              #21
              Is it possible to mount the rotary engine for front wheel drive?

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                #22
                sure... but you'd still need a TON of custom stuff to make it work. And with that said, why not just convert to RWD?
                "Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time"
                -93 MR2, 129 ES
                ClubProtege.com Tech Articles

                Originally posted by WTF
                Remember low compression makes more space for AIR, HEEELLOOOO!

                Comment


                  #23
                  I just thought it might be easier than rebuilding the floor and everything... if it's not then rwd would definitely be better.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by jnorion
                    Is it possible to mount the rotary engine for front wheel drive?
                    Yes it's been done. The list I had of "custom cv axles, flywheel, oil pan/oil pick (or dry sump), exhaust going right where the cv axle has to be" is what you would need. Ignoring the bad stuff there are a few good things.
                    .......................G25M-R............Type II (NA RX-7)
                    spline count.........22...........................22..... ......
                    spline OD...........15/16......................15/16........
                    disc size............225mm...................225mm..... ..
                    So you can get the to togather easy enough. I don't know the flywheel ring dia but I doubt it's the same so you would have to get it turndown to fit the Protege ring. You could push start it everytime if you didn't want to do that. The engine will have to be rotated forward to gain some exhuast clearance with the cv axle. Which is why you will need to modify the oil pan/pickup or do with a dry sump.

                    Originally posted by JesseSays
                    sure... but you'd still need a TON of custom stuff to make it work. And with that said, why not just convert to RWD?
                    RWD would be the way to go.
                    Quote from eBay
                    "with no knowlege of cars.he,armed only with the skills of an 18th century blacksmith,removed the front axles and wheel bearings,damaging both in the process"

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Hmm.

                      1. Carburated 12A or 13b (preferably 13b)

                      2. Custom fabbed adapter plate to mate engine to gearbox (if the BP flywheel won't bolt, it looks like the 13b will fit in)

                      3. there are shops out there that will do oval exhausts. with that, there would be enough room to fit through. if not that, the cheap man's route would be to run the exhaust to the side and to the back of the engine, over the gearbox and then under. Yeah? Really? Use header wrap to keep the temps down and not affect other stuff in the engine bay. Will be cheaper to go this route than dry sumping (no not humping... pervs) the block.

                      fun fun would be had.
                      Bryan
                      MOCC MEMBER

                      -"Mean people rule."

                      Originally posted by midnightblue97
                      Thought the oil pump was run off the timing belt??

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                        #26
                        man all of you just buy a damn rx7 or rx8 already
                        _____________________________________________
                        "The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the iniquities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he how in the name of charity and good will shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness. For he is truly his brother's keeper, and the father of lost children. And I will strike down thee with great vengeance and furious anger, those who attempt to destroy my brother. And they shall know my name is the lord when I raise my vengeance upon them."
                        Ezekiel 25:17
                        from Pulp Fiction

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