yeppers your right on the sensors. pretty well any mazda transmission sensor will fit any of the transmissions. its fairly universal
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Kia BP transmission in Z5 Protege
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1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Except you're forgetting that I do not have a manual harness and these sensors do not plug into the automatic harness. Therefore, I have to wire these sensors into my existing automatic wiring harness. I know the sensors will swap from manual to manual, but not automatic to manual.
I've been at parties all weekend and will look up the information I need when I get home.Last edited by irishkev90; 06-28-2015, 03:46 PM.
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i was just making a statement. if you need help with the wiring diagrams let me know---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Haynes manual diagrams were borderline useless for the neutral switch. The colors listed in the book didn't match anything.
Anyway, got the neutral and reverse switches wired up. She starts and the white lights turn on. Woo.
Items left on the list:
Exhaust
Transmission fluid
Clutch line/fluid
Coolant
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progress update??? im excited to see how this pans out---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Progress update?
Got the clutch lines all figured out and mounted up. Bled the lines. Clutch won't fully disengage. Not sure if that's due to the performance pressure plate or something else. I'll try re-bleeding the lines tomorrow and my dad suggested making a spacer to go between the clutch fork and slave cylinder piston. Not sure how I feel about that idea.
Other than the clutch problem I still need to finish the exhaust, fill the coolant and waiting on transmission fluid to arrive to fill that.
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did you ever measure the depth difference for the primary shaft into the bell housing between both transmissions??---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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No, I never measured that.
But after some research on Rockauto, it looks like the master cylinder I have has a 5/8" bore and the slave as a 3/4" bore. Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't the master have a larger diameter bore than the slave? Or at least the same size?Last edited by irishkev90; 07-04-2015, 12:30 PM.
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Originally posted by irishkev90 View PostI also had new clutch lines made up. I asked for two hard lines (28" and 6", I'd use the CS SS line in between to allow for transmission movement), but they could only make rubber lines. I didn't know until the guy was done, so now I have two rubber lines and a stainless. Oh well. The setup will work the same.Beater=/= Sleeper
Originally posted by kozzman555kitty, you are a hilarious womanOriginally posted by HopelessCowthere is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
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Nice catch, Kitty.
I guess I forgot to mention that I ditched the rubber lines and made up my own hard steel lines with the braided flex line between them. No leaks. Tried bleeding again with my vacuum bleeder, but I'm thinking it's just sucking air from the loose bleeder screw and not from the lines. The slave cylinder is at it's halfway point at rest. Did everything I could to get as much stroke from the master as possible, but still nothing.
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What do your slave cylinders look like? Like, where are the bleeder screw and clutch line located? My clutch line goes into the rear of the slave, pointing at the exhaust. The bleeder is after the clutch line facing the radiator. All the pictures I've seen have those ports reversed (bleeder facing exhaust, line in facing radiator). Will this affect the bleeding process at all? Trying to figure out all problems before going with my dad's idea of physically modifying things.
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Beater=/= Sleeper
Originally posted by kozzman555kitty, you are a hilarious womanOriginally posted by HopelessCowthere is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
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kevin, by description you have a G series slave.(proper one)
hoq much free play is there in the clutch slave to the clutch fork?
does the clutch fork/TOB actually touch the clutch assembly?---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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Originally posted by Kitty View Post
Edit: Scratch that, I do have the top/old one you posted in the picture.
Originally posted by FE3-323 View Postkevin, by description you have a G series slave.(proper one)
hoq much free play is there in the clutch slave to the clutch fork?
does the clutch fork/TOB actually touch the clutch assembly?
I'll post up a picture after work today to better show what I have.
Edit: From what I can tell from what you guys said, I have the correct slave cylinder, but I'm not getting enough travel out of the slave.
I ordered a Tilton 1" bore master cylinder to hopefully fix this issue. The larger cylinder should give me more fluid being pushed through the slave and, in turn, more travel. The pedal will be firmer from what I've read, but I'll deal with that if it means proper disengagement of the clutch.
I'm sure what other options I have that don't include physical modification to the components.Last edited by irishkev90; 07-07-2015, 03:03 PM.
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Transmission fluid finally arrived. Decided to start the engine after filling the trans. Maybe it just needed some fluid or the engine to run and set things in place, but the clutch doesn't seem to be a problem anymore. The larger master cylinder came in today, probably don't need it, but I'll hold onto it for a while.
Now the biggest problem is the computer. No, you cannot just hook up two sensors from a manual transmission to an automatic harness/ecu and have everything get along and sing Kumbaya. Maybe you can in a BG with an OBDI ecu, but I can't do it with mine.
Anyway, the O/D Off light is flashing (kind of expected) and the engine revs to around 3k rpm whenever I put it in gear (any gear). I'm thinking that's because the computer knows when it's in neutral (I wired the neutral switch so it would start) and revs the engine to accommodate to expected load.
My brother works at a junkyard and is going to see if he can get a manual ecu.
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