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    CV boot replacement help

    My driver's side, outer CV boot was torn, so I decided to get just a boot kit instead of a new axle because I'm short on funds. Problem is, The joint has to come apart in order for the boot to go on. Anyone know how to take it apart? Or has anyone even done a boot replacement before? It's only been three hours with this thing and I already want to give up and get one of the split boots from Autozone that doesn't need any anything to be taken apart. Help me?

    #2
    the outer has a tapered fit thats a bitch to get apart. you basically have to beat it with a hammer. Alternatley you can take apart the inner joint easily and slide the new boot down. Remove the inner boot being careful not to damage it, slide it off the large cup end of the inner. put the cup aside leaving all the grease in it. now, you'll see three balls on the shaft, theres a snap ring holding these onto the shaft, remove the snap ring and slide the balls off and set them aside. DONT put them in the axle cup or you'll have a hell of a time getting them out. now you can take the boot off the inner side so that you have access to slide the other boot on from this side.
    -Steve

    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
    VF10 powered!
    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
    13.1@107

    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

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      #3
      I actually just found a video that shows how to take apart both ends. Exactly how you described, haha. Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna go try now.

      Edit: I've stopped for the day, need time to shower and eat before work. Anyway, any tips on how to get the axle out of the transmission without taking the passenger side out and tapping through? I want to just take apart the outer joint instead of the inner and I dont have enough room to swing a hammer and I can't figure out a way to pry the axle out of the trans.
      Last edited by irishkev90; 05-29-2012, 11:06 AM.

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        #4
        Any tips for removing the axle!?!?

        I can't get anything flat to pry it out and my angled pry bars don't get between the cup and transmission enough to do anything. They just slip out at the slightest tap. Not to mention there is almost zero space to get a pry bar in there because of the damn crossmember. This is really starting to tick me off.

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          #5
          large chisel and a hammer. works every time. Make sure the chisel gets wide enough before it hits the part of the shaft that actually goes into the transmission.
          -Steve

          94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
          VF10 powered!
          262 Whp & 257 Wtq
          13.1@107

          '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

          Comment


            #6
            Easier said than done. I've tried. I can't get the chisel at an angle to get between the transmission and the inner joint cup. And if I can get it between, there's no room to swing a hammer.

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              #7
              I use the chisel method too... sometimes you have to try and go from the top, or drop the cross member. You can undo the boot clamp and usually slide the joint apart and leave the bearing cup/end in the trans as an alternative.
              2011 BMW 128i 6 Speed Manual -- dd
              1990 Protege 4WD 5 Speed

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                #8
                I'm going from above right now, but the way the auto trans surrounds the axle makes it possible to only get at it from the firewall side. I wish I was taller so I could actually reach ****.

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                  #9
                  ^ that is an option that I've been forced to use before. It was on my old BH. I couldn't for the life of me get the ****ing axles out so I bought new ones and used the old cups in the transmission.
                  -Steve

                  94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                  VF10 powered!
                  262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                  13.1@107

                  '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Well, seems nearly impossible to get it out of the transmission. F-you Mazda. Taking apart the inner boot will be a pain in the ass too. I just don't have the patience for this anymore. I need to get to work early today and tomorrow. I only get two hours to work on this damned thing tomorrow.

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                      #11
                      Just cut the inner clamp with a pair of snips. Be careful not to get the boot though.
                      -Steve

                      94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                      VF10 powered!
                      262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                      13.1@107

                      '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I don't have any clamps to replace it so I'll probably just carefully peel the clips back and reuse the clamp. I took the outer joint clamps off that way and they seem to be perfectly fine for reuse if I needed to.

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                          #13
                          napa sells the clamps pretty cheap if you have to buy one.
                          2011 BMW 128i 6 Speed Manual -- dd
                          1990 Protege 4WD 5 Speed

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                            #14
                            Never. Again.

                            I just reused the inner clamp I took off. And reused the larger outer joint clamp, but had to use the crimp clamp from the boot kit for the smaller one because the old one was too damaged. Just need to get he car buttoned up tomorrow morning and I can stop driving my dad's 13.8mpg, 5.7 Hemi Dodge Ram 1500. I like it, but I hate paying for the gas.

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