Hey guys i just got my 96 Mazda Protege LX and i have some questions.........the first one is when its in drive and it idles it shakes alot or when im at a light it shakes aswell could this be because the engine mounts are not tight enough? my other Q is when im at a light my RPM gauge goes way donw and it feels like its about to stall but it doesint what could be the probleme there? and aslo it leaks oil to but not from the engine usually it drips from the frame.......thanks guys
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If ya just got it ya might wanna replace the plugs and air-filter,than make sure your idle's set to spec. if it still idles rough check the ignition timing and compression. hopefully this helps and ya get that problem solved.'91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)
'91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel
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Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!
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Definitely check the compression. My car is a 97 LX (auto transmission), and I have the same symptoms. I've checked the compression and it's low in cylinder 4. This causes a misfire, and the engine runs very rough at low RPMs. It does the stalling thing too -- the RPMs drop almost to the point where it stalls but then it recovers.
It's been running rough for more than a year and it remained the same for a long time, but just recently I've noticed that it's getting a little bit worse (the stalling part). Fixing that engine is not worth the money...
It's not your engine mounts. That I know for sure.
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ok thanks alot guys! but one prob my dad is hard headed and thinks this car is normal shaking and leaking oil and almost dieing so he will not let me fix it because to him there is nothing wrong with it lol, so anyways it is my compression? will it cost alot to fix? im only 17 and this is my only car so i gotta do whatever ic an to keep it running even if it is not worth fixing.
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I'm not sure what the rest of you guys think but I don't recommend you getting the compression fixed at a Mazda dealership. They charge waaaaay too much for labor AND parts.
I went to a mazda dealership to fix my lifters because all four were worn beyonf belief, or so they say. Paid them well over $1500 and the car just isn't the same any more.ED
'05 6s 3.0L MT & '98 Pro DX 1.5L AT
Mazda Enthusiast Club Member
Click for my CarDomain page
2nd Gen Protege Parts Catalog project in progress
WTB: Gray 97/98 Protege Cupholder and Door Trim
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"IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up'91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)
'91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel
sigpic
Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!
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Originally posted by CBlaze"IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up
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Originally posted by CBlaze"IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up
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Originally posted by psycoticmy car does the whole shaking thing at a redlight too or when the car is idling.... but its only when i have the a/c on 4 cylinders have trouble powering the compressor at idle at least from my understanding...
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