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    #1

    Electrical shenanigans

    Hi New owner of a 95 LX with 120k. I've got a few general questions about 2nd gen electricals. Basically I have about a 100ma parasitic draw and looking for some places to look. the battery was garbage and I just replaced it but I don't want it to kill the new one. I have a few questionable suspects though:

    1) the dash clock is always on. Like really brightly on. My old subaru would 'turn down' the clock when keyed off.

    2) the stock radio is wired hot. You can turn it on at any time with the key off or on.

    3) i just replaced the rear defroster switch but I can't see how that would apply.

    4) Alternator was replaced over the summer. Perhaps there's something in the field.

    Any other ideas or comments on my issues?

    Also, anyone know a good value for a parasitic draw? 100ma sounds high to me.

    thanks

    Ryan
    Tags: None
    #2
    Well I can't answer your question specifically since wiring and electrical problems scare the **** out of me.

    I do know the radio being able to turn on anytime is not right. Concerning the clock, my 98 has the clock on the stock deck and turns off when the key is turned to off. I would start by looking into the stereo setup.

    Good luck.
    1998 Mazda BHALP SE - Rain Forest Green Mica

    Pacesetter short shifter ; Depo tails (thanks beetle_orange) ; Custom CAI nearing completion ; CF hood on the way ; Brembo blanks & KVR pads to be inst. (thanks Pigeon) ; Goodridge brake lines to be inst. ;

    Much more to come...

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      #3
      Originally posted by xzjn9p
      2) the stock radio is wired hot. You can turn it on at any time with the key off or on...
      Perhaps the radio is wired directly to the battery. That's what my mate did on his FX-GT to have the same effect.
      Andrew
      1996 Mazdaspeed Familia
      My Familia

      Comment

        #4
        i have a 95 ES, my radio doesn't turn on w/o the key being turned to "on" and the dash clock turns off when the car turns off, completely, not even dim.

        Comment

          #5
          re: the radio, yellow wire (live) might have been used instead of red (on @ acc and onwards )
          ProtegetechPhilippines Boy MazdaspeeD MyCaR

          Comment

            #6
            Grab a test light, and start poking fuses with the keys off and see which circuit(S) still draw.
            Ryan The middle child is always ignored
            BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
            Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

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              #7
              Get a wiring diagram. See if any line is shared by both the radio and clock light. If they are it might help confirm the radio as the problem. That stereo direct setup sounds like the problem. Disconnect the radio and connect it the right way and see if you still get that heavy draw. Here the wiring diagram might help again. That's because they probably cut wires off the molex/connector that comes from the factory when they installed the aftermarket radio. I'm sure it's no longer the factory radio, right? If you use your car often it would not protect your battery from going bad but it may end up blowing the clock light or some other item that doesn't use a light. Just get at that radio since it's the first suspect.

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                #8
                thanks for the replies. Its been snowing lately here in chicago so I haven't been able to tinker with it. I disconnected the battery yesterday and the car is still trying to draw 130mA with the key off. The radio is stock I believe (mazda cassette) but I haven't looked on how to take it out. It seems obvious that the clock and radio are wired together to battery somehow. my guess would bet the cigarette lighter. Maybe this weekend I'll get my dmm back out there and figure it out.

                Comment

                  #9
                  so you are from chicago, i am from aurora!

                  1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
                  Mods:
                  DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
                  http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

                  Comment

                    #10
                    yeh i live near wrigley. The mazda is a bit of a performance shock coming from my modded wrx. But since I live in the city and barely drive having the wrx didn't make sense. Just needed something to get me around to the burbs or detroit if I need to go.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      pro's a great daily driver and aftermarket may not be aplenty but there are some mod's you can do.

                      1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
                      Mods:
                      DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
                      http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by xzjn9p
                        It seems obvious that the clock and radio are wired together to battery somehow. my guess would bet the cigarette lighter.
                        Man, you're the second person to remind me of the hell I went through many years ago with a car I owned that had a short. I almost completely had the dash removed when I took another look at the wiring diagram. I noticed the cigarette lighter was part of the circuit I was having trouble with(dash light problems). The lighter was right on the console facing up instead of on the dash facing sideways toward the passenger. I looked inside it and there was a penny. My then, 2 year old nephew had dropped a penny in there so when it would move a little it was touching both the walls(negative) and center(positive). Hours of work and weeks of the problem before I got around to it and the problem was a single penny.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          well I don't think it'll be that easy, but I have a multimeter and I used to be a GM engineer who designed wiring harness among other things. So i'll get it figured out. I mostly just wanted to set a baseline of what should and shouldn't be on. Since I've never been in a protege besides the one I bought.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            problem found.

                            It warmed up a little today so I went out diagnosed the electrical problem. Its the ignition switch. It seems that most of the time when the key is in the off position the switch is still in ACC. So all the ACC loads are still up. Not sure if I'm going to take the column apart and play with the switch or not. Probably just be careful when turning it off. thanks for sugestions.

                            Now I just need a new driver's seat and I think a thermostat.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by xzjn9p
                              problem found.

                              It warmed up a little today so I went out diagnosed the electrical problem. Its the ignition switch. It seems that most of the time when the key is in the off position the switch is still in ACC. So all the ACC loads are still up. Not sure if I'm going to take the column apart and play with the switch or not. Probably just be careful when turning it off. thanks for sugestions.

                              Now I just need a new driver's seat and I think a thermostat.
                              Well, that's good you found that out. If you ever wanan swap the radio for an after market cd player or what not (without using a harness) I can tell you what wire is what. I had to do that with my pro that I just bought. I figured out which wire was what..so if you need any help with any electrical..hopefully I can help..take care

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